Ordered Skyjacker springs. shocks?

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I ordered the Skyjacker 2. 5" lift springs, $158 delivered, do I need longer shocks? I put Bilsteins on it a while ago and I hate to take them off and buy new shocks. How much up travel is needed? I think it's got like 4" right now, so after a 2" lift I would still have about 2", is this good?

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2001 5 speed SWB SLT Larmie White 4x4, ISSPRO boost and pyro gauges, 4" exhaust with walker muffler, DDI injectors with a HOT PE box for good pleasure.
1980 CJ7 350, SM465

 

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Swayse
I bought the Skyjacker leveling springs in 95. They gave me longer shocks in the Kit, but I didn`t use them. The stock length should be ok. Just make sure the shocks don`t "top out" over bumps ,meaning the shock has gone to its maximum travel length.
I`ll will ruin them pre-maturely.

You can get Deman Coyote LT305/85R16`s to fit on the front (36" tall 10" wide) , no problem now #ad


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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.

 

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Where did you get the springs? Did you get springs only or a kit. I am interested in raising my front because my winch dropped it about an inch and they are already low to begin with.

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99 2500 QC SB 4x4 driftwood, 5sp. 3. 55 lsd, 9000lbs Warn winch, 33x12. 5x16. 5 BFG mud terrains, no muffler and 0880 K\N, Autometer gauges, Poweredge

 

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I just bought the springs, I don't know how much the kit would be. I ordered them from Skyjacker at 1-800-SOFTRIDE, $140 for the springs and $18 for shipping. I should get them today.

 

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Thanks Bill. If they "top out" on a regular basis I'll be forced to get some Rancho 9000's. If I get longer shocks and don't raise the bump stops, will the shocks bottom?

I'm thinking 315x75x16, but I've got to wear out my 285x75x16 first, I've only got 26,000 miles on them. Kinda concerned about the 3. 54 in the axle, now I wish I had the 4. 10.

 

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Swayse
No way will the suspension bottom out enough to hit the bumb stops. The springs are way too stiff. The spring would need to really compress.
If you see the shock will top out, Try Pep Boyz or another auto parts store for "Shock Extenders". They are studs that thread unto the top stud of the shock to give you 2-3" more travel. You have probably seen them. This way you can keep the Bilsteins.

Let us know how it comes out. #ad


[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 12-15-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

I got the springs installed, about 2. 25" lift. Shocks have about this much until they "top out"(I'm holding my fingers a little more than an inch apart). I haven't noticed that they "top out", yet. Took it down a rough road, wow, the front end feels lighter. I think I'm going to like it like this.

The track bar seems a little short now, the axle is shifted to one side. Did you do anything about this? Should I get a new track bar? If so, what brand and where?

 

[Archive]

Swayze,

The off center front axle is a classic problem when we lift the front of the truck. Mine is barely measureable. Maybe 3/8"-1/4" shift to the left. I decided to just live with it.

If you have access to a machine shop, you could probably cut the bar and lengthen it. One member has done this.

This is from an older thread with good info:

Our selection of aftermarket adjustable track bars is very limited.

You may try to get a drop bracket from Trailmaster, Skyjacker, or Rancho ect. You will have to speak to their techs. Not sure if they are sold seperately.

It appears Linstad`s bar is not adjustable lengthwise like you need. Its adjusable as the ball joint wears, to take up the play. I don`t know that much about it. I could be wrong.

More info on Linstad: http://www.westdakota.com/lindstad/

Probably the best trackbar for our trucks is the DT HEIM Joint track bar. (Pictured below) Its is fully adjustable lengthwise to push your axle back to center. #ad


A note: I had the DT Heim joint T-bar 1/2 way installed in my truck. It was on a Sat. DT was closed. I had tech questions. One of the 4" bolts that holds the bracket to the trucks frame is supposed to go thru a hole at the bottom of the frame and the top. Well the holes are 1/2" out of line. The bolt will only go in at a 30 degree angle. No way I could get a drill in there to straighten the holes. Second problem was the bolt was too long. It butted up against the steering shaft. Reverse it and it hung to low. probably would interfere with the piman arm. The only problems I had were with the bracket that replaces the factory tapered ball joint mount on the frame.
I got fed up and put everything back in the box and shipped it back. Talked to DT HEIM joint that next Monday. The long bolt is supposed to be tightened at a 30 degree angle (way cocked). It just didn`t look right. DT HEIM joint said they were upgrading the bar to include a "turnbuckle" type lengthway adjustment. BY NO MEANS LET MY EXPERIENCE WITH DT HEIM JOINT PERSWADE YOU IN NOT PURCHASING THE BAR. I just had bad luck. It was one of those days! LOTS of guys love it.

Great info on DT HEIM JOINT T-BAR HERE: http://www.ecpe.vt.edu/~dfritz/technical/STEERING/trackbar/dt_install.html

"BigBadDodge" a member here has the DT Heim joint trac bar installed on his truck. You can see good pictures of the bar here: http://communities. msn.com/ScottsRam&naventryid=110





[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 12-16-2000). ]