Ordered the D25/Bilstein package from ORW-- Any install tips?

[Hohn]

Hi guys!

I finally got around to bombing something other than HP. In my quest for better ride quality and a little more front tire clearance, I went with the "leveling kit".



This package came with the new shiny Bilsteins valved for the 8800+ GVWR pacakge, and also the proper front length for the longer coils.



Are there any gotchas that I should know about? I have crawled under the truck to pre-flight the install, and I can't see how this would be that hard. I think I am going to drop the spare tire (to get room) in the back to do those.



Up front, I think I can get the springs out ocne I get in on the rack and let the wheels droop. Mind you, I think this will require disconnecting the sway bar at least. Do I have to disconnect anything else to get the droop I need to get the springs out? I was led to believe I would NOT need a spring compressor to do this job.



Anyone willing to give me a little step-by step help here? Logic seems to dictate that I do the rear first, then the passenger side, then driver's side last. Don't ask me why I call that logical



I would deeply appreciate any pointers that my TDR peeps have to offer. .



Justin

 

[mediccummin]

In my install

I have had mine apart 3 times and each time I did have to use spring compressors and unbolt the upper link at the axle. There was no way the D25 would fit without this, at least in my experience. Also watch your brake line and wires running to your front dif. If you plan to go with 35" tires I would recommend longer links also. 35" tires would not fit on my truck with just the level kit, they would hit the rear of fender well at 1/4 turn ( with 17x9 wheels with 4. 5" backspace, BFG AT ko's) With stock wheels it will probably clear but then you'll hit the links at full lock, but you can live with that. I have 1/2" longer links now and still have slight rub on the mudflaps, but they stick out a little. Also with the level kit your going to move the axle over to the driver side approx. 1/2" or so, you might want to think about a adjustable trac bar. Unless you already have one. Anyway theres a little of my experience with this, I'm sure you'll get plenty of info to help you out. Hope this helps... ...

 

[Boondocker]

suspension install

I've only done the shocks on the truck, but have done the whole suspension on my ZJ, which is of similar design in the front.



I've always had to use spring compressors on the Jeep - the outside-the-spring type designed for struts. These things seem to barely work and are unstable.



Be very careful with compressed springs!

Air tools are a real plus for this job.

Undo any anti-sway bars.

I found the driver's side front shock tower to be a real PITA. You may have to do the shock install on the ground just to reach over the fenders.



Having lifted every (non-sedan) vehicle I've ever owned, including trailers and the kid's wagons, it almost incomprehensible to me that I want to lower this truck! It's got way more fender well than necessary with the largest factory tires, and with the ridiculous 5. 5 inch rear lift blocks, 5th wheel trailer to bed clearance is an issue. As for leveling, well, it's level with 1500-lbs. pin weight :--)



Neil

 

[y-knot]

Listen to these guys they are absolutely right. You will need a spring compressor, and take care these are very big springs, and there will be alot of tension on the compressors. The type that seemed to work the best for me was the ones that have a long piece of all-thread, and two hooks on each end. Best bet is to jack up the side of the truck you will be working on, then put the compressor on. With all the trucks weight on that wheel, the spring will be compressed and you will not have to do so much by hand later. I don't like being any closer to that damm thing they is necessary. Take your time and do one side at a time. If you have a ABS or a PRIME-LOC the drivers side will be alittle tough, but you can do it. The passenger side is a piece of cake, and if you remove the air filter box, even sweeter. I found it is much easier to get the spring in with it's new spacer, and after that wrestling match, then drop the springs in. Also it you want to be extra safe, you can run a piece of chain down thru the spring and attach it to something solid, like the front frame or sway bar. Leave just enough slack to do your work, and if for some reason the spring gets away, the chain will help minimize the damage.

 

[SS]

Justin,



I was able to do mine without the spring compressor - I felt it was easier and safer to remove the front upper control arm bolt and the sway bar bolts to allow the axle to droop enough. If you do one side at a time, the other acts as a fulcrum to give you more droop at the spring. When you are done, let the truck sit on level ground, loosen all of the control arm bolts, jounce the suspension a few times, and retighten the bolts. This allows the bushings to be in a relaxed state at normal ride height instead of being all wound up. The front lower control arm bolts have a cam washer on them to adjust caster, so mark them and return them to position when tightening. I took a little caster out to make the front driveshaft u-joint angle better, but put it where you like how it drives. There are some recommendations if you do a search on it I think.



Check brake lines, axle vent, and anything else for clearance and adjust if necessary. Good luck - I think you'll be happy with the final results.

 

[Clinton]

I didn't need a compressor either, but I disconnected quite a bit of stuff. I dropped the sway bar, trac bar, all the steering linkage, and the upper control arm bolt. I've noticed the newer trucks locate the sway bar differently... I wonder if that's the difference in needing a compressor? My '96 didn't really come close to requiring one. Good luck.

 

[CRSmith]

Here is my experience.



I BARELY got the 2" spacers to fit w/ out spring compressors, but it took a strong stomach to jack the axle away from the frame. Read the thread and you will see what I'm talking about.

 

[Got Smoke?]

My experience with the D25's was far more pleasant than some I'm hearing here. I had a guy at work who had just installed a set like 3 or 4 weeks prior help me put mine in.



All we did was jack up one side at a time, disconnect the sway bar, brake line bracket, lower shock bolt, and lower the axle. Now we did have to use the OE bottle jack between the two bump stops, but other than that it was basically smooth sailing. I'm guessing an hour tops for the whole installation.



One thing you will want is a long, very strong pry bar. Yes the springs were a tight fit, but they went right in a with a little persuasion. Oo.

 

[Cooker]

Personally I think a spring compressor is the way to go. Or some HD Ratchet straps if you don't have a spring compressor.

 

[y-knot]

I posted once and meet to ask about your experience with ORW, I have ordered from them in the past and have had very good results. I just ordered a bunch (1800. 00 ) and they were just as good as the last time. I like to deal with sonny, he seems to know his stuff and always cuts me a deal. Don't even have to ask anymore, he just takes care of me. Did you talk to him? How was your experience with them? Also, This spacer isn't brain surgery, and you will be able to do it just fine, don't get all freaked-out over everything that was written. The main point I wanted to convey was just be carefull, the spring has a tremendous amount of potential energy, and know one wants to see you get hurt. Good luck

 

[Hohn]

Thanks-- I didn't talk to Sonny, I think it was Mike or something.



I was very impressed with the service and price, and I WILL do business with them again.



Justin

 

[BLACKRAM]

I just had mine installed today by Randy's Off Road Center in Lakewood, WA.



The tech used spring compressors and air wrenches.



I have two Bilstein shocks (30K miles) if anyone is interested.