Otr Truck/tractor Info?

[RHestand]

I've recently graduated from truck driving school, and will start driving for Werner,with a trainer in a few weeks.

I've pretty much done my homework on which companys are best to start with, and Werner seems to be a good compromise.

I know I will not be in market for a truck for at least several months, but IMO it's never too early to start gathering info. Due to my tax situation, if I'm going to do this for more than just short term, I'll be either be buying or leasing a used (maybe an 04 or 05) ten wheel OTR tractor, probably with a sleeper.

So far, I'm thinking I like first, the Kenworth cab and chassis, maybe second Peterbuilt, for their quality. Are they worth the additional money?( I know all my questions will be subjective. )

Also I need your opinions on the best engines for all around quality, durability,economy, etc. (Cummins, Cat, Detroit, Mercedes?)

Transmissions? ( 10,13 or 18 speeds?) Do you really need 18 gears?

Rear-end ratios?

I know I'm asking for a lot of info, and I will appreciate any opinions, ideas, etc, you guys with practical experience are willing to share with me.

My only practical experience lately was the 99 Freightliner, Cummins,(low HP)with an Eaton 10 speed I drove at truck dr. schl. It showed 680K mi. and it was pretty much shot.

Thanks again for any help on this.

Ray

 

[therabbittree]

First Tip. . Don't Buy your own truck. At least not for a while. . ie 3yrs or more. . Get the driving experience for the type of hauling you want to do. . Werner is a lot of Box vans. . I personally would go bonkers driving one. . and bumping docks is not my idea of fun. . Flatbed is more interesting and takes a lot of energy as it is alot of work. . , you get to see a lot of different areas that a box van would see. . Tank is pretty clean and simple . . etc I would be leaning on a speacialized areas ie flat bed or specailized. . etc. . You don't mention where you live as that may make adiffernece. . soem regions have dump work and log work too which is more interesting and challenging then box vans. . in my opinion. Second tip go slow... .

As for equipment , it depends on what you are gonna be doing haul wise... I would not want to have any less then 450hp. . do you need or want a retarder and engine brake. . well cat is only brand with a engine brake and a retarder offered. . I would lean toward a 2003 or earlier engine ie pre All Emissions no egr etc, but say 1995 and newer for a electronic engine . . no smoke tickets, more MPG and less maintenance cost in long run with out the emissions crap. . MPG wise a series 60 detroit is really good, also the ISX and N-14 are good on fuel... . the big cats are not as great mpg . . any new emissions engine is not as good on fuel as a older one. .

Look at weight too as if you get paids buy the weight then you want a lighter truck trailer... as for 10 speed or 13 or 18 etc. . you'll find that if you are running heavy or in a lot of hills the 18 spd will allow you to maintain the speed easier as you can split the gears without moving the stick as much. . it helps alot driving, plus you have the deep reduction reverse and first gears to help move back up or get loads moving, and resale is higher truck trans engine specs all depend on the type of hauling you want to do. . we could go on ana on about it... .

any how I would recommend not buying your own truck as the rates are bad and there is lots of cheap freight being moved for crazy low prices. . many drivers could make a lot more $ staying out of a truck and have way better home life. . even if you ran local and were home everyday figure in a LONG hours . . and not too much $... maybe look into union jobs if you in a union area or metro area. . they are nice and pay well. .

Good luck I'm sure a bunch of guys will chime in here. .

Later

deo

 

[bmoeller]

Until you get plenty of experience, I'd follow that advice.

The main thing driving for someone else, you'll make sure you actually WANT to stay truckin', before blowing the money on a rig. From what I hear, the turn over rate on new OTR drivers is over 50%. You have to more than LIKE to drive. You better LOVE to drive. Same goes for the work in general. Can't hack either, go somewhere else. Have enough crappy drivers or ones that whine and moan about EVERYTHING as it is.

Avoid leasing a truck. Particularly with the company you are hired on with. I RARELY hear that turning out good. A lot of people have gotten screwed over bad doing that. Things go well for a while, then some companies will start cutting the loads/miles back enough that you can't make any money, or pay the loan, and have to turn in the keys.

As for trucks, it is all personal preference. Me, I prefer long hood conventionals. Mainly a KW W900L (which I currently run and absolutely love). A 379 would be next, then a IH 9900i or 9370 and FL Classic XL, in that order. I don't care for set back axle trucks, but one with air-ride up front might be just fine. A set forward axle rides MUCH better.

Depending on the brand, most built after '98 have the most legroom. I have problems with trucks that have wall directly behind the seat. ANY of them, sleeper or not. I have a 40" inseam, so I NEED room. Aerocab KW, newer 379 Petes, Mack CX Visions and many FL trucks with the integrated sleeper I have found have the most room to slide a seat back.

Hands down, get a sleeper. Even if it is just a short 36/38" bunk. Running local, I still use mine, and you never know when you'll go on a longer trip and need it. Been as close as 8 miles from home, and still needed it (wasn't gonna lose my place and get out of line at the plant). If you need a short truck with a setback axle, you can still get a short sleeper. We have T800 w/210" w/b that used to have a 38" Areocab sleeper on it before it was rebuilt and we bought it. Make sure you have an air-ride cab. The ones that don't, beat the snot out of you. Worse with a setback axle and short wheelbase.

On engines, again personal preference. With the right geartrain specs, any make engine can get decent mileage. A lot of people poo-poo Cats on mileage, but our 2 get the best of our other trucks with Cummins or Macks under the hood.

The 430hp C12 w/3. 70 gears gets 6. 6mpg consistantly in the warmer months. The 2 Macks don't get over 6. 1 and they are 300/5. 13 and 350hp/4. 17. All local stuff.

The 500 ISX/3. 70 in a T800 gets no better than 5. 3mpg 99% of the time, while my 525hp C15/3. 55 in the W9 gets 5. 5-5. 9mpg. With these 2 trucks, that is OTR mileage. Local it is 4. 6-5. 0 on mine, and the ISX is always lower than mine. 4. 4-4. 7. I do know a couple of guys that are claiming 6-6. 7mpg OTR with their 500hp N14s and 3. 70 gears pulling bullracks. My sister's b/f has a 430hp Series 60 in a FL Century and gets 5. 3 OTR pulling rarely more than 43k in the dry van.

Transmissions, no less than 13spds. For me, the 13 and 18spd trans are the only ones I will consider. 9s are fine, but can't split the top. 10s flat SUCK. Don't care for a 15 (similar reason as the 10spd).

A big thing to consider as a O/O is serviceability. Will you do your own work? Out of all of the trucks I've run (~13-15), the W900L is the easiest to work on for most things. Best access. EVERYTHING on a areodynamically designed truck is crammed in there pretty much or you are dealing with fairings blocking a lot of stuff and making it a pain to get under.

Have fun.

 

[tgordon]

This has to be the most loaded question out there, that I can think of. Most of the driving I have done has been farm/field. No need for a bunch of gears, average hp, and the shorter and lighter the better. If you are going to run the 11 axle combos in MI there is no such thing as to much hp or to many gears, I would guess the same for in the mountains. Being on the small side I fit about anything not to bad, but would require an air ride rear axle, and possibly cab. Not that what I select by has much of any bearing on what a OTR guy would want. Hope you enjoy whatever it is you end up with.



If you are going to be in WI much you might look into the log hauling, in the northern part seems to be pretty good demand for the guys.

 

[therabbittree]

All Good advice above. .

. . I forgot The BEST ADVICE DON"T HAUL CHEAP! #@$%!Cheap Rates are bad for everyone. . if you do ever buy your own truck figure your actual costs / expenses, figure in a good wage , benefits etc etc and make $ ... don't be lining a brokers pockets and running cheap...

 

[DVolk]

OTR truck /tractor info

If it was me id buy a old truck , something you can afford

and slowly rebuild it and make it a 100% DOT legal



If you own the truck out right you have no payments my choice of power would be a old big cam cummins with a minimum of 500 HP and a 15 speed

or if money wasnot a problem buy a cummins signature 600



I parked mine in 2000 and sold it a 1995 Peterbilt 379 with a N14 and super10spd ,, wasnt hip on the transmission .



What im doing , is im building a 1969 Pete 359 with a 335 that will put 512 to the ground and will run ocasional loads in the summer time only with it

with a 13spd and 4 spd aux trans

 

[RHestand]

Hey guys, I can't tell you how much I appreciate you taking all the time and trouble to give me so much detailed info. I'm definately taking notes on this.

First, I have to say I'm doing this more as an adventure, as opposed to just going back to work. (I'm a retired Carpenter/Gen. Const. Contractor) I'm fortunate enough financially, that I don't have to go back to work, so if I don't like this, I can and will quit. (And given a choice I will not haul cheap freight. )

The main reason I'm going to work for Werner is just for the seat time and the education that goes with it. (Their starting pay for the first 275 hours is almost laughable. ) Also I needed some specific time off this summer, which they agreed to.

What I think I would eventually like to do, (after a year or so of experience) is like was suggested, is do something other than haul a dry van.

Maybe a flat bed, hauling equipment,mach. etc. Or since we will be living in our Wi. house for the next two years, maybe haul logs in that area. I do have plenty of room there(in Wi. ) to park a tractor/trlr. if needed.

Basically I'm trying to scratch an itch that started when I was very young,the fascination with big, powerful diesel trucks. With time this might diminish some, but I don't think it will go away. Time will tell.

In my earlier years, with getting married and raising a family, the money I made in const; kept me in const; but now I don't have that concern anymore.

I'm 64, in good health, and excited about getting started. (I know some of you OTR vets are smiling)

Anyway again, I say thanks for the great posts and would love to read more of them.

Ray

 

[icman95]

I have one of the aforementioned set back axle trucks. A 2001 Freighty Century with a 70'' raised roof double bunk sleeper. Has the Cummins N-14 500 hp which has been dead reliable except for normal wear and tear items. Alt, starter and water pump. All originals replaced after about 650k miles. Can't really complain about that. transmission is 13sp which works out great. I'm not a big fan of more gears, but if you were hauling logs or equipment I can see the need for it. These can be snapped up for a song, as they are all over the place. Must reinforce the don't haul cheap freight warnings. I have my truck on with a local guy who does produce and seafood. The customers don't want to pay more for increased fuel prices. Each time he tries to get a few more bucks the customers complain because they know there are plenty of drivers out there willing to do it for cheap. Most of these guys don't realize that at the end of the run, they are either in the hole, or just break even. Your worst enemy in this industry is your fellow drivers. If we all could keep each other from making this mistake, we could make some money. Also, look into joining an independent driver association such as Owner Operator Independent Driver Association (OOIDA.com) or National Association of Independent Truckers (NAIT.com). They are good resources with monthly trade magazines and insurances programs you will need. You can join even before you're out on your own. All you need to be is a driver. Good luck.