Ovaling of the hitch pin hole

[JBallou]

I have a particular problem that I can't figure out the exact solution. so here it goes, it might use some incorrect terminalogy.



I have the OEM hitch on my truck, and the hitch pin hole has been ovaled by a cheep locking pin with a sleeve from towing our toyhauler. The trailer weights up to 11k fully loaded. The noise from the clunking of the shank sliding to and fro that I replaced the hitch with a Curt 15k, sits underneath the OEM one.



Last trip out and first trip with new appropriately sized pin and new hitch, has started to show the same signs of wear, ovaling of the pin hole on one side. Very slight, but none the less on it's way to wear and clunking in the future.



My question is this can't be normal, and what can be done to prevent teh ovaling? I measured the various pins that I have and all are just a little to loose for my liking.

 

[mberry]

Are you using a 1/2" pin instead of the 5/8" (I think) standard size hitch pin or something? Just playing devils advocate here. I've done a lot of towing and I've never had anything like what you are describing happen on any vehicle. The only thing that makes sense to me is that the hitch pin you are using is slightly too small which will allow the ovaling to occur as you describe. I'm sorry but I can't think of anything else that would cause that. And no, that's not normal.

 

[HBarlow]

I had exactly the same experience with the OEM hitch on my '01 Ram dually. I replaced the hitch receiver platform and the new one was still fine two or three years later after towing perhaps a hundred trailers and 200k miles.

Curt is one of the newer and cheaper brand names in the towing industry. I don't know about their quality but your experience indicates they are not real durable. The quality of the metal used matters.

Lots of folks buy those hitches with brand names we never heard of a few years ago. They often brag on them when the products are new but quietly get rid of them a few years later when they wear out prematurely.

Brand names usually cost more but often prove to be cheaper over the long haul. Reese and Drawtite are names you can trust.

 

[Hoefler]

If I am to understand your post correctly, the shank is clunking back and forth with the trailer on. If this is correct, your problem is caused by your trailer not having enough tongue weight allowing the shank ( ball mount ) to move around in the receiver. Not the fault of the receiver. If you change to a different brand, it will happen again unless you get it to stop moving around by rearranging the load on your trailer to get more tongue weight.

 

[JBallou]

Sorry I didn't give more info, it is indead a 5/8 pin. The only carry over item is the shank, that I have not checked for free play. I think that it is a pin size issue, being that 5/8 is a nominal size and subject to manufacturing variables, hardened steel with chrome, etc. Think about all of the force that is put in such a small area on hitch hole. I have a friend that has the class 5 hitch that bolts under the OEM and it has what looks like washers welded around the hole.



The trailer definately puts weight on the truck, makes the rear end sag a good amount, and I have the weights written down just not with me. The shank would clunk with the OEM ovaled hitch when accelerating from a start, or stopping hard, and it was a small amount, but it progressively ovaled the hole.

 

[MMeier]

Mine did that as well, got to the point I didn't trust it too much . I replaced with a Titan Class V that has what appears to be extra meat around the pin hole, so hopefully that will stop that issue. FWIW, my '97 had pretty much the same loads on it ( stacks of trailers) and never showed signs of that happening. My . 02... good ol' Daimler cheaped out on yet another item.

My advice to JB is get rifd of that Curt hitch and get a 'real' one!

 

[JBallou]

I will call the place that I ordered it from and see what they have to say, I just hate to throw money at a problem, like everyone else. But when safety is envolved. Thanks for the replies.

 

[KYOUNG]

my stocker is getting wallered out also, makes it hard to change hitchs. I am thinking of drilling out hole to 3/4" and running a bolt in it. Or could weld heavy 5/8 washers on outside of hitch and fix the problem.

 

[SRath]

I build and/or modify my own receiver hitches. I am a compulsive "over-builder" and build things MUCH stronger than they need to be.

On all of my hitches and receivers, as well as any factory-made ones I have installed for other folks, I do a very simple modification that will eliminate your problem.

Drill a 17/32 or 9/16 hole in the receiver, usually on the bottom, but from the side is fine, about midway along the length of the hitch insert. Weld a 1/2" nut on using a bolt through the nut to center it and protect the threads from welding splatter.

Let it cool, repaint, and insert a short 1/2" bolt, but not sticking through. When you put your hitch in, insert your hitch pin first, then tighten the bolt good and tight. Loosen it and remove the hitch.

Using the same 17/32 or 9/16 bit, drill a shallow divot in the hitch where the bolt contacted it and left it's mark. Halfway through is good if it is a hollow insert; 1/2 inch deep if it is a solid insert bar.

Now when you reinstall your hitch and tighten that 1/2 inch bolt, the hitch CANNOT rattle, it CANNOT egg the pin hole, it will be less likely to be stolen if you do not use a locking pin, and it is also secured by more than just the pin.

 

[JBallou]

Awesome! thanks for the ideas! Going to give that a try, along with the new washers on the sides.

Figured that I should up the ability of the weight distribution bars from the 1,000 to the 1,500. That should help as well as someone pointed out. Thanks.

 

[jelag]

You need to remember that some dealers upgrade trucks on the lot and add on the trailer tow package... its simple for them and in most cases is less money than ordering it from the factory... . and they can add it to the trucks that customers want it on... . READ they make more money... .

Often the hitch they install is not up to the standards of what the OE installs at the factory... wall thickness of the tubing is lighter and usually doesn't have the same class rating...

I've got several trucks that we've factory ordered with a trailer tow package... I don't have one of those trucks here today, but would assume that the base tubing is at least 3/16" or 1/4" material... I've never seen this material beat out with a 5/8" pin, I have however seen thinner material wear... I have purchased as an example a weld on receiver for the back of my 5er to hold a bike rack, and one I installed on my Honda quad... both is these had wall thickness of about 1/8-3/16"... but they will never see the weight and load...

Srath has a great point... I would see nothing wrong with welding a nut to the side of the receive and re-drilling it back to the 5/8" diameter or a shade overside to allow for easy insertion of the pin... . quick simple fix...

 

[champspa]

use a harder pin and add some meat to the receiver like weld on a couple of 5/8 set collars

 

[JBallou]

All of the pins that I am finding have quick pin, are plated chrome, and are generally cheap looking, and cheep costing, under $5.

One of the key design features is that the inside of the bend not have a relief cut in the bend, causing a smaller diameter where the pin will rest in the hole.

Time to break out the drill and welder.

 

[steved]

Was the OE hitch factory or dealer installed?? If it was dealer installed, you could just replace the receiver portion of the hitch...

 

[JBallou]

It is the OEM hitch, and it is part of the rear crossmember. Can mnot just replace part of it. I have a friend that has sourced a weld in type bung requiring drilling out the OEM hole and a insert gets welded in, having more meat and tighter tolerances.



Found some 5/8 bolts that are hardened, exactly a tight fit, and I will use them once the bungs arrive. I will try and post a picture of it once it shows