Overdrive switch

[DCottrell]

Does anyone know if the overdrive switch is still available for 1st gens?

 

["Mad Max"]

Don't know if the 1st gen switch is available, but you could convert over to the 2nd gen switch. The 2nd gen's have the od button on the tip of the auto gear selector lever on the column, and the 2nd gen lever is a 'bolt-in' into our 1st gen columns, and then you'd have od at your fingertip, as well as retaining the factory light on the dash. Here's the instructions:



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Part 1:



Fellow dieselheads - I've put together the steps for the o/d column lever install, including some tips to ensure nothing shatters in the process!



This is the instruction 'manual' for converting your factory automatic column-mounted gear lever handle to accept the 2nd-gen overdrive lever. This conversion moves the operation of the o/d on-off switch (mounted on the front face of the first gen dash) up to the tip of your auto shift lever. You'll love it, and it takes about 1/2 hour to install.



Mopar Part number: 1-04690522AB. Cost is about $45 from any dealer.



Switch Operation:

In short, there are a bunch of wires on the back of the original switch - one of them is Orange/White stripe - This is the 'trigger wire'. The new lever only has two wires - one to the trigger and one to ground. If you use one of those little blue splice connectors you can tap one of the wires from the new lever (either one) right into the original orange/white wire, and then ground the other wire from the new lever to anywhere on the back of the dash. Be sure to use a small star washer to get a good connection. Game-set-match. Both switches will trigger the o/d, either to on or off depending on what it is curently in, and will also light up the original o/d switch light on the dash. Works great and you get to keep the 'indicator', only you won't have to search for the button!



Column covers:

You will need a small torx bit. When you take apart the plastic covers from your steering column, be VERY CAREFUL not to shatter or crack the plastic. It's real old and real fragile. It doesn't come apart easily, take your time and 'work' it back and forth, applying pressure to separate them. They'll come eventually, but some of the ones that have never been apart are real buggers because two spots are 'pressed' together, much like a tight locating pin on a bellhousing.



Removing the factory lever:

DO NOT REMOVE THE ROLL PIN WITH A HAMMER AND TAP! Use a big set of channel lok pliers to 'squeeze' out the roll pin on the lever itself where it is seated into the column. Put one side of the pliers on the end of the pin sticking out of the bottom, and the other end on the opposite side of the pin but not actually on the pin - slightly off centered. This will not stress the aluminum and will use the housing to counter the force of budging the pin loose. It's tight, but you don't want to use a hammer and punch to initially budge it. Once it is loose (about a 1/4 inch) NOW you can use the punch to lightly tap out the pin. One good smack is better than several little ones. The column doesn't look killer strong, but it'll take a bunch of abuse. Remove the lever, and be sure to note how the little return spring is aligned at the base of the lever. You will want to place the new lever in exactly the same location.



Installing the new o/d lever:

The new lever hooks right in place of the old one. Take note of the position of the original lever in relation to the little return spring (when you pull back on the lever to go into gear it automatically returns to the rearward position via this spring - you'll see it). Once you get the lever to where it looks like it's in, it really isn't. The return spring will be on the back side of the tip of the lever. You'll have to 'convince' it to go in, and when it does you'll know it. Once in place reinstall the roll pin, pointy end down, and squeeze it back in its seat with the channel loc's again.



END PART 1



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- M2

 

["Mad Max"]

Part II:



Wiring:

Cut the end plug off of the new lever wires and 'peel' the two wires apart leaving about 4" worth of single wire each. They're really thin, but my truck hasn't burned down yet so I guess it's 'ok'. Pastor Bob, Mark, yer's still in one piece? Anyway, find the orange/white stripe 'feed' wire on the original switch and 'splice' it into either of the new lever wires. The little blue plastic splice connectors work best. You will typically have to add a 6" length wire to the new trigger and ground wires to make the swap have plenty of slack. Slack is good - you can always zip tie it up if you have too much. Now attach the other new wire to ground somewhere most convenient on the inside of your dash. Once you have the wiring hooked up, turn your key to run, not start, and hit the switch. Since our rigs default the o/d operation to 'on', when you hit the switch the [o/d-off] light should illuminate. If the [o/d off] light doesn't come on and the [cargo] light does, go get a beer and try again 'cause ya gots yer wiring a bit jacked up. If the [o/d-off] light comes on, go get two beers and celebrate your wiring prowess! Once celebrations and high-5's are complete, go ahead and put the column back together. If no one is there to celebrate with you, just high-5 yerself on the forehead.



Reassembly of the column covers:

Put the covers back together in reverse order of dissassembly. You might want to slightly hog out the centering hole for the alignment pins - they'll just make you mad again if you ever have to remove them again (I found out some kewl stuff about 2nd gen column pods, so stay tuned about these little plastic covers). DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS - they strip easily.



Driving:

The rig will 'feel' like a new one now, and the operation will feel natrual. You'll start 'shifting' with the button, and it's real nice.



- M2

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

I really like my second gen shift lever with the button on the end of it... . I find that I'm actually "managing" my gear selection more now that I don't have to reach and search for the OD button... . specially on rough roads.....



pb

 

[Greenleaf]

I mounted a switch on the floor next to the parking brake. It's a head lamp dimmer unit along with the plug in wire harness. Makes for a clean professional like install and I love to grab OD gear with the click of the switch.



I also had to try the second gen switch too. That thing is sweet as well but I'd have to lift my arm to activate it... ... . LOL

 

[DCottrell]

Thanks for the information. I checked with my local Dodge dealer today and the 1st gen switch is still available. But the cost of it versus the 2nd gen lever is not much so I ordered a new lever and switch and will retrofit it. Thanks again.

 

[tugboatphil]

You won't regret adding the lever. Also, I had trouble seeing the light on the dash switch. So when you have the panel off to wire in the lever wires, you can move the bed light over to the left and bring the OD switch to the right. It will be slightly easier to see.