Overdrive

[Cliffman]

My 94 Auto won’t go into overdrive or lockup when giving it 3/4 throttle. You have to really let off the throttle to get it to shift into overdrive and if your pulling a load forget it. I have the banks stinger plus and a BD torque converter with the shift kit that BD recommended back in 97. transmission fluid is good and we replaced the TPS. Otherwise it shift's good from 1st through 3rd. If you have the overdrive switch engaged (overdrive locked out) it won’t go into lockup unless you really let off the throttle and then when you get back on the throttle it comes out of lockup.



Thanks

 

[Cliffman]

knockdown cable

I wonder how the heck that thing could have come out of adjustment . He recently replaced the starter and the lift pump. Could he have somehow knocked it out of adjustment when replacing those items?



Hey, Someone deleted their post

 

[WBerry]

i also having problems with mine. i got 1st,2nd,3rd only, willnot go into 4th or lockup,it will only go into 4th at around 65mph but not into lockup. i also had lift pump replaced last month but this started acting up 2 days ago. also i had a fuel line leaking and spraying back on trans,fixed this yesterday. been to different places trying to figure out trans problem,nobody can give me a definite answer to what the problem is, except to tear it down first. id like to know first. does anybody know of a good reputable garage here in the miami area? thanks for any info. lightfoot

 

[Joe G.]

Cliffman,



If you need to adjust the kickdown cable it's pretty easy. The only tool you need is a small c-clamp. I use a 1 1/2". The kickdown cable is the lower one of the three in the bracket at the throttle linkage. The first thing to do is measure how much the pointed end of the cable housing protrudes so that you can put it back like it was if adjustment is not the problem. The c-clamp is used to press and hold the button for the adjustment. The part of the cable housing that holds the end of the cable is roughly cube shaped. There is a button like bump on one side. This is NOT the button. Rather it contains the spring. The button is the flat place on the cube opposite the bump. Put the c-clamp on so that it presses on the flat button and the bump. Tighten it until the pointed end will move. It's a little confusing since you are really adjusting the length of the cable housing, not the cable. SO the longer the cable housing, the shorter the effective length of the cable. A good place to start is to adjust the cable so that at wide open throttle (WOT) the transmission lever that the cable attaches to has about 1/8" of movement left before it hits the stop.

 

[Cliffman]

Kickdown Cable

Hey Joe,



Is the kick down cable in close proximity to the lift pump and or the starter? I'm wondering if we could have knocked it out of adjustment during the replacement of those items?

 

[Joe G.]

I don't see how you can knock it out of adjustment messing around with the lift pump or starter. It's a pretty well made cable assembly. You might check to see if it has been knocked out of the bracket on the transmission that it clips into. Also check to make sure that the lever spring is still hooked up. If it's off your loud pedal will be a lot easier to push.

 

[Bill Kondolay]

Trucks not going into od have usually 1 of 5 problems



kick down cable out of wack,

tps sensor

transmission temp sensor

od solenoid

lipseal on the od piston.



Kick down cable

basically controlls your throttle pressure

if your throttle pressure exceeds your governor pressure you will not get an od shift.

usually means your kickdown is set up too agressivly

before you rush out and adjust your cable forward, (more slack in the cable) keep in mind you are dropping you line pressure

REMEMEBER ACTION VS REACTION , the kickdown is the last think i would try to do to solve no od shift situation



tps

if the tps voltage is too low it can prevent a shift into od and or lockup



While some of you guys may laugh at this , anytime you add power to your truck you are affecting your tps sensor readings.

same as if you put in a tighter tc



What used to take you half throttle now may only take you 1/4 throttle, also if your tps voltage is too high , it can also prevent shifts into od and or lockup



If they worked with your pump and or your throttle cable they would have come in contact with your tps





trans temp sensor

if the temp readings are too high and or too low it can also prevent the shift into od



- od solenoid can be shorted or contaminated



- od piston lipseal can be damaged





Dont thow parts at it guys, too many variables.

Figure out the cause and then take it from there.



Tools you need if you are going to try and do this yourself,



digital volt meter, 7mm wrench or socket, pressure gauge recommended, a toggle switch and some electrical wires,

basically the above tools are to help diagnose the problem.



If you guys need a hand with it, get the stuff first and then call me. ( it will be helpful when you call if you have a portable phone so you can be by or under the truck. )

 

[Cliffman]

Bill



Prior the this problem we were having a problem with the TC going in and out of lockup when cruising. Changed the TPS and problem solved. Now, a little later we have this new problem. Do you know of anyone in the Loveland, Co. area that could take a look see at this one.



Thanks

 

[Cliffman]

Trans temp sensor

We also replaced the TTS and no change. This was prior to changing the TPS. We were concerned that the connecton was not making good contact so we sodered it on. Now I'm wondering if maybe the we damaged the sensor by heating it up. Does anybody know if you can damage a sensor by doing that.



Thanks



Cliff

 

[Outback101]

TC/OD Lockup

First off this is my first post on this forum so bear with me. I have a 95 2500 SLT Extended Cab 4x4 with an auto trans. It intermittently goes in and out of lock up with out a load or loaded when on the the highway. Is this most likely the TPS out of adjustment or bad? What is the fix if this is the case? I am also ready to do some mods and repairs on my truck. I need a new tailpipe and muffler and was planning on going with the Banks monster pipe and muffler for now and doing a more complete Banks upgrade later. I've also got the fuel sending unit problem and have taken the info for that fix and am ready to repair it. Last but definitely a "pita" is the need to raise the hood and pull in the fuel shut off solenoid to start when ever the engine or weather is cool. I read some trouble shooting tips from everyone here and will try them before dropping the cash on a solenoid. This is a great forum with lots of intelligent input, KUDOS to alll involved. I am envious of all you North Westerners and Canadians. I love to hunt and fish and prior to my military retirement spent 12 years in Alaska. Great place. BC, Yukon, Northwest Territory and Alberta are wonderful also. Liard Hotsprings a great thaw out place on the long road. Enough BS. Would like to here more from DTTand Pier's on mods and anyone with similiar interest. Email is ra1996@hotmail .com. Thanks!

 

[Joe G.]

rarnold,



Before you buy Banks you should search these forums about Banks. You might change your mind.

 

[Cliffman]

TPS ADJUSTMENT

We decieded to start swaping out TPS's since we have 3 of them just to see what would happen. Turns out that after swaping out 2 of them the truck started to shift correctly . Talked to a friend (Blair Pine) and he mentioned that it may be posible to "mis-aline" the TPS when installing it. So I guess maybe we just happen to hit this one just right.