Overheated brakes

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A couple of weeks ago I was on a 16 mile 10% grade and wound up with very well heated brakes. (smoke was coming from under the fenders)What problems should I expect from an overheated brake situation?

Dewdo in the other Washington

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2000 Ram 3500 4wd dualie W/B-D Exhaust Brake, Auto-Loc, Armr bed liner, DeeZee running boards, mud flaps, steps, leather, white with color splash on sides, would like to BOMB it, but after warranty. VA Box waiting to install.

34' King Of The Road 5th wheeler & 11. 5 Arctic Fox pickup camper. Winter in Arizona (Martinez Lake)

 

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My rear brakes had been real hot and when I pulled the drums there was severe heat checking and hard spots that made a pretty bad pedal shudder. One was fixable by turning and the other had to be replaced. I see you have a BD exhaust brake, did your brakes get that hot with the BD working also? I am thinking of getting one, do you like it ok.
Good Luck
John

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96 SLT Laramie CC 5spd, 3. 54, no muff, no cat 80gal fuel capacity.
Member NRA/USPSA

[This message has been edited by Deezul 1 (edited 08-06-2000). ]

 

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dewdo,
How did you get your brakes hot with a B-D Exhaust Brake and Auto-Loc. Just wondering what went wrong.
Arlan

 

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You may also find rotor warping and hard spots. I've also heard ,but never experenced,that overheated brake fuild changes properties and should be flushed and replaced. Rubber hoses can also be damaged or weakened from the heat. You should of flipped on your B-D!

 

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dewdo,

Details! Details! Pretty please? #ad


Things happen as we all.

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<font color=#990000>~<font color=#990000> '99 2500 SLT <font color=#990000> ~ QC ~ 4X4 ~ LB ~ Auto ~ 4:10 LSD ~
<font color=#000000>*<font color=#990000> BD E-brake<font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> BD Autolock<font color=#00000> *<font color=#990000> Gear Vendor OD<font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> Jordan Research T-brake <font color=#000000> *<font color=#990000> Bullhide spray-in Liner<font color=#000000> *
<font size=-2>... Lookin' for the 'RE' to go next to my 'TIRED' so's I got more time to Play!... <font size=-1>

[This message has been edited by Rattlin (edited 08-06-2000). ]

 

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OK gentlemen, here is the story,

I was on that famous "OH MY GOD HILL" between Sheridan, Wy. and Yellowstone. (16 miles of 10% grade followed by 8 miles of 8% grade. Every curve on that stretch is a hairpin turn with a posted speedlimit of 25mph or less.

As most of you know, the BD brake kicks out at or below 25mph. I have a 11. 5 camper on board and as long as I take the curves at the posted limit I am safe.

I don't know if other people have the problem with their brakes as I do, but in order to get the brake to kick back in I have to jokey the throttle back and forthe to get it locked up. By then I am doing 35 mph or more and another hairpin turn coming up. I wasn't able to use the exhaust brake until I hit the 8% grade. I had to stop about three times to allow them to cool down. Smoke was coming from the front ones.

Dewdo in the other Washington

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2000 Ram 3500 4wd dualie W/B-D Exhaust Brake, Auto-Loc, Armr bed liner, DeeZee running boards, mud flaps, steps, leather, white with color splash on sides, would like to BOMB it, but after warranty. VA Box waiting to install.

34' King Of The Road 5th wheeler & 11. 5 Arctic Fox pickup camper. Winter in Arizona (Martinez Lake)

 

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I went up a 4x4 road in Colorado with a 2 wheel drive van, auto trans. It went up fine, but I had the brakes smoking coming down. I didn't warp the rotors, but I did warp the steel front wheels. They just caused a slight vibration, but I replaced both. The brake pads will often crack and crumble after overheated. Mine did, so I reccomend pulling them off to check for cracks.

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99 2500 QC, LWB, 5spd, 3. 54 limited slip, Intense Blue, 275HP Injectors
Tow Lite trailer
96 KTM 360 EXC
99 Durango 4x4 360cid

 

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Do your brakes feel ok now?That is the worst hill you will ever see.

 

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I smoked the fronts and went home and adjusted the rears - Got lucky and didn't warp the rotors. The rears needed lots of adjustment and they looked brand new with 10,000 mile on them. Thank you TDR members on the rear brake adjustment post a long time ago.

 

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dewdo,
That sounds about right for that type of grade with lots of curves. I have that problem under control in my truck (see signature) and you could also with 4 wheel drive. What you need to do is get a 2 low kit installed and also add a mystery switch to over ride your auto lock. With truck in 2 low and TC locked up I can go down any grade at say 8 to 10 mph, locked up in 3rd, and never touch the service brakes. The problem is I have to get out of 2 low to go over about 35 mph, Sould have bought the 5 speed. I,ve been kicking myself in the ass ever since I drove the automatic.
Arlan

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1998. 5 QC 3500 4X4 3. 54 Auto ISB, PowerMax1 BD/TC and Valve Body, 225/70/19. 5's, TC lockup, RV Injectors, Mag-Hytec Transmission Pan/Differential Cover, 9000 LB Warn Winch, Ultra Board Running Boards, Westach Combo Boost/EGT and Transmission Temperature gauges, Pac Brake, 2-lo kit, CB, GPS, Rancho 9000's, JRE 4" exhaust with muffler and resonator

 

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Is it the BD brake that kicks out or is it the auto transmission?
If it is the BD brake, I'm sure glad I got a US Gear D-brake!

 

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dewdo,

Thanks for sharing your experience.

Your situation is one I was afraid I might happen to encounter. I have the Autolok as well. I was thinking of adding a momentary TC lockup foot switch to again engage the TC and let the BD release the brake to prevent a stall if things got complicated.

Arlan's idea on using the 2wd low switch sounds like something to look into as well. Keeps the rpm up for good compression braking and I think it will prevent the stall problem that the Autolok trys to protect this short memory person from.

Now, I'll have to add a BD Autolok override switch to allow e-braking below 25 mph and pay more attention. Might add it to the 2wd low switch so the override would automatically be activated and, more importantly, de-activated(Hey, this memory challenged person needs all the help he can get. #ad


It's good to know that you made it to the bottom without a scratch on any of you or your wheels.

 

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It's the transmission. The torque convertor unlocks at about 28 to 30 mph with either the BD Auto Lock or Torque Lock. The exhaust brake remains on, but doesn't do squat it the TC isn't locked.
Arlan

 

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I have a Pac Brake it doesn't kick out at any speed. If yours does I change to a different brand. Just my . 02 cents
I also have a 5 speed
Don

[This message has been edited by Don Marriott (edited 08-07-2000). ]

 

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I have a Pac Brake, it doesn't kick out, all I am saying is, if the TC isn't locked up, all an exhaust brake does is make noise. That is with the automatic transmission.
Arlan

 

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Did you use low gear in the descent? Note, you have to get below about 15 mph before the transmission will shift into 1st.

 

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No, I do not use 1st or 2nd with the exhaust brake. The transmission temperatures will soar if the transmission is not in LOCK UP. As I stated earlier, I have 4 wheel drive and a switch that lets me go into low range and be in 2 wheel drive. In that mode I can maintain 3rd gear lock up (with the mystery switch) down to 8 to 10 mph before the RPM drops below idle speed. Any slower and the engine starts to stall. I can't believe that Dodge doesn't warn against purchasing and automatic transmission if a person plans to use the vehicle to tow. I have put thousands of dollars of aftermarket products into my transmission trying to get it up to snuff only to get it half assed decent. My next truck will definately be the six speed.
Arlan

 

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Thanks guys for the information you have so kindly dispensed. I will for sure check into this mystery switch. Where would a mechanicaly challenged person go to have this doen? Transmission shop, exhaust brake dealer, DC etc? I sure need something since I either pull a fiver or a pickup camper in the mountains quiet often.

I don't mean to bad mouth U. S. Gear's exhaust brake but I had one on my 94 2500 and it was broken most of the time. Must have spent a bundle in replacing the control box. One time as I was descending a grade East of Laughlin, Nv. I had the entire exhaust from the brake all the way back blow off. Fought with Camping World and U. S. Gear for a years over that one. That Cummins sure sounds off without all that tail pipe and mufflers.

Thanks again fellers

Dewdo in the other Washington

 

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Wasn't it Cummins that quite selling Ebrakes to those with Automatics because of this and other issues with ??

 

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I hope I can add a little clarity here. There appears to be some misconceptions on the BD exhaust brake and the seperate product, the Auto-Lok.

The BD exhaust brake is in 'standby' when the switch is on. The brake activates when you take your foot off the accelerator. Should you forget to release the TC lockup mystery switch (whether you have an e-brake or not), you put extreme pressure on the TC as you approach the point of stalling the engine (just like not pushing in the clutch). I for one don't want the shuddering of the truck to remind me that I didn't release the TC lockup. It may not affect the transmission the first time or the 30th. But repeated stressing of the TC certainly can't be healthy even if they are few and far between.

The Auto-Lok is for the memory challenged like myself #ad
; someone wanting to make it easier for those that drive it less frequently such as a spouse - like mine #ad
; someone that wants a little added insurance that minimizes the chance of breaking the toy - like myself #ad
. It monitors the speed and releases the TC lockup at about 25 mph to prevent the afore mentioned engine stall and truck shudder. What the Auto-Lok doesn't do is force a TC lockup. It only maintains the truck's lockup condition if it existed when you take your foot off the accelerator. It then releases it when you give the accelerator a little push. If you have a problem with getting the condition right to get another lockup command (as in dewdo's situation), the exhaust brake as afore mentitoned (obviously I like that phrase tonight #ad
)isn't effective.

Even though I have the Auto-Lok, there are times a mystery switch is still needed. One is under the conditions dewdo found himself in. Another one is when I have to down shift on a hill (regular OD or GV OD)the TC lockup is released. With almost WOT, it's almost impossible to get it back without loosing a lot of steam. So now I'm towing without a lockup #ad
until I crest the hill.

Anyway, I hope this helps with understanding some of the problems we can get ourselves into.



[This message has been edited by Rattlin (edited 08-08-2000). ]