Overheating issue ??

[machinemover]

I now have 220,000 miles on my truck. TST pack and all that stuff. I pull most of the time. 2 times in California on my last trip I've had problems with overheating while pulling. First going up a windy steep grade and I contributed the problem with bad cross ventilation and didn't think much more of it. The other day same thing except the grade wasn't that long and I overheated and again started overheating in traffic on the freeway. I'm ringing the overheat bell a couple of times and code p0480 and p0217 came up. Where do I go from here? Replace fan clutch, maybe just the relay (if someone can tell me where it is located) anti-freeze change, take intercooler off, what??? Not sure where to start with this, but I am scheduled to go on the road again, east and log 15,000 miles on this trip and would rather get this under control now while I'm home rather then deal with a dealer and get ripped off on the road. Any help is much, much appriciated... . Thank you in advance!

 

[JFaughn]

You might want to do a mod , electric fan with thermo switch . It could be cheaper than a factory fan clutch . Maybe some els will be able to tell you where the relay is.

 

[machinemover]

With the risk of sounding totally ignorant, what is involved with installing an electric fan and would an Auto Zone per say have on in stock?

 

[RustyJC]

A Flex-a-Lite type electric fan cannot move the air you need to cool the engine when towing heavy. Been there, done that with a previous truck and paid $450 for the lesson.



My Flex-a-Lite 350 twin fan setup drew (IIRC) 50 amps. 50 amps x 12 volts = 600 watts = 0. 8 BHP. Now, even if the Flex-a-Lite airfoils are 50% more efficient than the engine-driven fan (and they're not), 0. 8 BHP won't move enough air to cool an engine pulling a heavy 5th wheel up a grade. That's why the engine fan is designed to consume 8-20 BHP (depending on whose numbers you believe) to cool the engine at full load.



Rusty

 

[machinemover]

I just noticed a write up in the latest issue on overheating. I'm going to take there recommendation and pull the radiator out Friday, inspect it , clean it and new antifreeze, of course. Thanks for the electric fan update, these are things I don't know and value the good information. I am worried about this issue though because it seems to havce come on all of a suddeen and I pull a 40' utility trailer. I can **** alot of people off in traffic if I over head in a bad area.

 

[DPKetchum]

I'd FIRST pull radiator and have radiator shop flo test etc. I'd probably put a fresh thermostat in it just in case old one has broken or hanging. Then CHECK fan clutch operation. What are the TWO codes you pulled? DON"T forget a fresh eadiator CAP>

 

[TowPro]

I have seen ugly pictures of the back side of the radiator covered with gunk caused by the crankcase breather hose causing oil to be spread over the radiator. Check it out and see if the fins are clogged on the backside.

 

[jelag]

My 04 has 170K miles and pulls 20-22K lbs all the time over the mountains in the northwest... . the gauge hasn't changed from day one... this truck has never seen a full tank of fuel on an empty truck... . Its going to be interesting to see what you find... I don't think I'd worry about thermostat... but I'd flush the coolant and replace it with the cap... if that's never been done... . Cummins says that the pink coolant is good for 100K miles before you add a bottle of extra protection stuff... we've done that..... I really never hear the fan click in on mine except on I-5, Siskiyou's and Grapevine and on I-15 going over the divide... . sometimes on a hot day on I-90 on Lookout or 4th of July... .



BUT I have noticed that if I follow a truck or other large vehicle too close... that the wind will no longer go through the cooling system and it will start to climb... . (heat up) I always run between the 2 and first 0 with a light load and with a heavy load its between the two 00's on level ground and though the second 0 on a pull... .



BTW its exactly the same on our 01 and 05..... A trick that was taught me... when the engine is warm. . and you put your hand across the radiator... . if you feel cool spots... on the front of it... or can find cool spots with a temperature point and shoot gauge... those are restriced lines in the radiator. . its cool because water is not fully flowing in those areas... . so there not working... .



Hope this has helped...



Jim

 

[MMeier]

I say T -Stat needs attention, probably not opening fully and restricting flow. Next...

 

[TowPro]

I did find a bad thermostat on my 98. 5. It would run cool until I put the camper behind it. First it would start to run hot around 65 (meaning it would hit 200deg). Once it started doing it at 55 I knew I had a problem. I removed the thermostat and put it in a pot of water on the stove with a thermometer. AT 195 It opened, but only about 1/4 of the way. No mater how hot it got it would only open 1/4 of the way. I put the new thermostat in the same pot of water, it opened Wide open. Fixed the problem.

 

[machinemover]

Thanks for the tips, it helps! I really won't know if anything worked or not until I hit the road in about ten days. The truck runs fine when I'm not pulling, it's only heating up with a load. I live in Northern Arizona and I will be heading east over Flagstaff, so it won't take long for me to know if the tips you guys gave has worked or not. This is my game plan, Tomorrow I will pull the radiator clean it, replace t-stat and new fluid. We'll see. Thanks Guys. I will post the results.

 

[DaveK98]

Always test a new t-stat before putting it in useing the method towpro recommened.

 

[TowPro]

The truck runs fine when I'm not pulling, it's only heating up with a load.

This does point towards the thermostat not opening all the way. I have heard of several trucks having this problem over the years. I think they changed the thermostat design a couple years ago (and the new one was like 2X more expensive then the old one). Stick with one from the dealer or Cummins.



Test both in the pot of boiling water. Put hot water in the pot with both thermos (mark the old one so you can tell which one is which) and turn on the heat. As the water gets hotter see how they open. If you don't have a thermometer, remember water boils at 220 deg and it should be open by then!



Maybe replace the thermostat first, its a lot easier then pulling the radiator

 

[JFaughn]

Flush the rad. after using a cleaner , change the stat. and do not worry about weather they a wasted cost or not becouse those are normal maintainace things that should be done on a regular scedual anyway , and if done may prevent those systems form happing in the 1st place , as far as the electric fan goes , there is not just one fan for all applications , get what is listed for the viehical in ?
almost any after market part has some testing to match its use , especaly a product thats be around for at least 3 decades .

 

[DPKetchum]

Using a cleaner on the radiator is a waste of time and money. If it has a flu clooged up no cleaner out there will help. In fact if I'm not mistaked its recomended NOT to use any cleaners. Its a drain and refill only most plastic. alum radiators have been drain and fill only for a decade or more.

 

[Tryingit]

It sounds like a fan clutch. I had the same proble on my 97 Dodge gas engine. I changed out the radiator (Which was partially blocked) and the thermostat (twice). The truck kept heating up when climbing a hill empty and while sitting in traffic. It would cool down right away while moving. The fan clutch is hard to diagnose and might be the easiest and cheapest thing to start with. :{

 

[hammersley]

How manytimes have you changed

the coolant and/or t stat??????

 

[JDubien]

I need your help guys...

I want to revive this topic as I'm struggling with a similar issue currently. I have 117k on my truck and until the last 10k miles have never had any engine temp issues no matter how heavy I pulled or the steepness of the grade, the gauge would barely move an 1/8" past the 200 mark. I bought the truck new and the temp gauge was consistent with thousands of heavy towing miles. It would also cool down while idling, getting fuel or whatever, and drop below 200. . this was very typical.



Now things are different and I can't seem to figure out whats up. In an effort to get things back to normal, I've replaced the stat with a cummins stat, flushed the coolant and replaced with distilled water and coolant exactly per the previous posters write up (which was awesome by the way), I've replaced the fan clutch too. Its still overheating but only when towing and pulling a grade (like sunset point or camp verde to flagstaff). When pulling on level ground it cools down. It doesn't cool down while idling like it used to and as a matter of fact it heated up, the needle past the second 0 of the 200 while on this trip when I pulled over for a few minutes. Radiator looks clean from both side the best I can tell with out removing it. Temps are completely normal when driving around empty.



Please let me know what you guys think as its not making sense to me. I suppose its possible I installed a new bad stat? I did not replace the cap however, do you guys think a cap could cause this condition? Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[cerberusiam]

Before you get too worried put a manual gauge on it to verify temp. The stock gauge is subject to vagaries of electronics. It coul be a bad ground, a bad battery, or the cluster controller.



Aside form that, can you hear the fan engage when it is warm? Any sign of deposits on the cooler tubes?

 

[Motorhead]

From the HORROR stories I have heard here, DON'T USE THE RADIATOR DRAIN PLUG to drain the coolant. It apparently can strip out in the radiator and then you are buying a new one.



When your radiator is out, back wash the intercooler and A/C condenser with a good water hose and nozzle. You could have the cooling fins choked up with dead bug debris.

I ALWAYS replace the thermostat when doing a coolant change. CHEAP insurance!

When I do a coolant change on my cars and clients cars, along with what I suggested you do, I always back flush the engine block and heater core with fresh water. Not all of the rinse water will be removed so I add the required amount of un-diluted coolant FIRST then fill the remainder with distilled water. Best way to get a true 50/50 mixture.