Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) p-pumped 24 valve

[rdd4x4]

my 2nd vp-44 just died and it lasted about 13,000 - 15,000 miles... has anyone ever p-pumped a 24-valve and know how much it costs and know if it's possible to keep electronics in the process? thanks for all replys.



Dale-



2002 2500 Quad Cab 4x4 6-spd, stacks, Comp box, 150hp nozzles popped and shimed, head studs, water/meth, south bend dd 3850, Twins! :-laf :--)

 

[Rebel Ram]

It's been done and is popular enough for some of the better Diesel shops to offer a parts kit for the swap less the pump and a few other details. I think the kit runs about $1500. Do a search for p-pumps in the 24v forums for more details. I have considered doing this in the event that I had chronic problems with my VP and decided to keep the truck "forever".

 

[RAMICATOR]

just remember not all brackets and linkages and some other things are not included in the kit

 

[acook]

Dale

Talk to Mecham at Ceder City Diesel. The "BEAST" is P-pumped.



Anthony

 

[rweis]

I think Scheid's has a conversion kit. AS mentioned above several of the major rebuilders have p-pump conversions and several under their belt and worked outthe details.



I get the impression that p-pumping will cost about $3000+. I also think the p-pump also has it's own set of issues, just not a serious as the VP44.



What is the "normal" horsepower range of a p-pump conversion?



Bob Weis



EDIT - As per the following post, I am VERY wrong in the cost, way way under estimated.

 

[KLockliear]

Having done it before, let me say that if you want it to be like a stock truck when you're done (all gauges work, clean install with nicely bent lines, etc), it's going to be time consuming and costly. Just buying a decent P7100 core pump (usually a 887/913 these days) is going to run $1000+, not including any upgrades to it.



Honestly, if you want the p-pump that bad, go back to a 98 truck. Otherwise, just keep anteing up for a VP every xx,xxx miles. I think we estimated about 6 VP's to count up to just the parts of the swap.



Also remember that if you do it, you will have a truck that no Dodge dealer will be able to work on - which may present issues down the road (electrical, etc).

 

[RColston]

Wise words, Keith, wise words.



Rick

 

[RonA]

I would recommend you keep the vp44. But if you do decide to go with the p-pump conversion you need to decide what hp range you are looking for. Adjusting takes time and patience, unlike pushing a button on a gizmo. A 500hp very streetable setup is not particularly difficult. More is harder because of smoke. Good injectors and afc adjustment are the main thing. Lots of air helps too. They make more smoke at a given hp than an electronic motor.

 

[DieselTim]

24v p7100

I will be able to give you some better info in the next few weeks, I am in the middle of that very thing right now. So far I have a 95 12v donor truck (broken frame) for the engine pieces and pump, new gaskets from Cummins including new block to case and front mainseal, and a line set on the way from Scheid's.



Line kit $460

gaskets $100

donor truck in a trade ~ $1000



I am keeping the 24v engine and just changing the front case and pump so that the ECM and PCM will still work and give me the info for the dash to still function.



So if all works, I will be done with changing VP44 pumps for ever Oo.



It looks like most of it is just a boltup of different parts to make it all work. I have the crank sensor down by the starter so I will not have any machining to do.



This conversion has been done many times now. Go ahead don't be afraid to junk that VP44 and move up to something reliable.



Dieseltim

 

[LUnderwood]

Can anyone say www.powerbypoole.com Olee Poole is the man!

 

[AFarmer]

Can anyone say www.powerbypoole.com Olee Poole is the man!

Olee just did his first conversion and it turned out nice. I'm with Ron - stick with the VP44 because there is a lot of hassle getting everything in-line and working order. Check out the VP44 from Blue Chip Diesel - really nice piece and a very good success rate.

 

[John_P]

rdd4X4:



I agree with what Keith Lockliear has said.



I know that TDR Member "Jetpilot" did a P-7100 conversion on his old black

2001 Dodge CTD 24 valve and was not really happy with how the truck drove as a "daily driver. " You may want to give him a call at "Performance Diesel Warehouse" and he can give you all the details on his conversion. Also, I know that Larry Crawford also did the P-Pump conversion on his Dodge 24 valve and had some problems also. I hate to see you spend that kind of money and then not be happy. FWIW,... . I had a 2002 Dodge CTD 24 valve and after two (2) failed VP-44's and five (5) lift pumps I sold that truck and recently bought an new 2006.



Good luck.



--------

John_P

 

[AFarmer]

After that first lp I believe I would have started looking into a FASS.

 

[edgerat]

I would spend some good money on a REAL lift pump setup so that you can get fuel to your VP and not starve it to death. The Vp pump is good to 700+ hp with nitrous and high 600hp range withotu nitrous. You can daily drive a 500+ hp VP truck a lot easier than a P-pumped truck and there are no electronics with the p-pumped truck. Get a good fuel pump like the mitusa or the glacier diesel kit and a good VP from BlueChip and call it good.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Having done it before, let me say that if you want it to be like a stock truck when you're done (all gauges work, clean install with nicely bent lines, etc), it's going to be time consuming and costly. Just buying a decent P7100 core pump (usually a 887/913 these days) is going to run $1000+, not including any upgrades to it.



Honestly, if you want the p-pump that bad, go back to a 98 truck. Otherwise, just keep anteing up for a VP every xx,xxx miles. I think we estimated about 6 VP's to count up to just the parts of the swap.



Also remember that if you do it, you will have a truck that no Dodge dealer will be able to work on - which may present issues down the road (electrical, etc).

This post - from a guy who should know (been there, done that!) - should be included in EVERY thread other than the competition forum, for guys who have been led to believe the P7100 is the "Holy Grail" for use in the 24 valve engines!



All that might be added, is that if you DO make the swap, better plan on keeping the truck forever - buyers or for trade in might be WAY outta the question...

 

[John_P]

AFarmer:



Tried the FASS for a short time without the stock lift pump and that quit on me too! Left me on the side of the road and with no lift pump as a "back-up"

I was "down in the water!'



-------

John_P

 

[RonA]

I have seen a number of over 500hp 24 valves on the dyno. They smoke as much as my conversion. I doubt that they are better daily drivers at 500 than mine is. I imagine the line of seperation is higher. Maybe 600.



Ron

 

[edgerat]

but you remember that you can take a 500hp 24v down to 300ish with the push of a button, not quite as easy to do that with a 12v.

 

[AFarmer]

AFarmer:



Tried the FASS for a short time without the stock lift pump and that quit on me too! Left me on the side of the road and with no lift pump as a "back-up"

I was "down in the water!'



-------

John_P

I'm sorry to hear that. The LP and Inj pump are certainly two touch points on the 24 valves that's for sure.

 

[RonA]

but you remember that you can take a 500hp 24v down to 300ish with the push of a button, not quite as easy to do that with a 12v.

Is there a problem with driving a vp44 at 500 all the time? Mine is fine at that point. In town, towing, whatever. 20+ mpg on the hwy, 18. 5 to 19 in town.