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P0148 Fuel Delivery Error on 2006 Dodge 2500 MegaCab 5.9L Cummins

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I don't like the smoke

4WD light flicker.

Hey guys and gals, I've been reading the threads for years now and they have been very helpful. This one is a bit different, so bear with me on the explanation. For starters, I have a '06 2500 MegaCab aka the redneck-minivan. Engine is bone stock, 104,000 miles on it. Meticulously maintained, the transmission was rebuilt at 75K with billet input shaft, billet valve body, and billet torque converter. Never chipped or tuned.

Last week, I was pulling a grade without a trailer to pass other vehicles and my pickup acted like it wasn't delivering full power, the engine surged slightly and the engine light came on. I ran the OBDII code reader and it came back with P0148 Fuel Delivery Error. Well, always going in order of most simple to out of my level of knowledge, I figured that the fuel filter was so bad, it wasn't allowing the proper amount of fuel to the pump. The filter was replaced prior to this 3,000 miles ago, but nevertheless, it was fairly black. I run injector cleaner every other tank too. So, I cleared the code, warmed up the engine and laid on the throttle. Same response!

Next, the FCA (Fuel Control Actuator). Ordered a brand new Bosch from Cummins directly, slapped her in and, you guessed it, same code thrown when above 90% throttle.

The next part I am throwing at her is the BOSCH F00R000632 PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE, two bolts and done. I'll let you know what happens, I'm waiting for the part to arrive hopefully by the 1st of October.

Here is the short list of other possibilities I am thinking:
Pickup tube from the tank.
Lift pump - that was replaced at 76K so not super likely.
Injector Failure - also unlikely: ran the diagnostic tests with flow percentages and everything is perfect.
CP3 Failure - but no tests have been run other than fuel rail pressure at idle/without a load and it checks out

Any suggestions or similar symptoms would be greatly appreciated! Six pack goes to the winner!!
 
Means you could have worn injectors or H-pump.

I would go check the codes with your dealers device, those hand held scanners are nice but sometimes not accurate, especially on diesels.
Might there even more specific codes that your device doesn't show.
You want a proper diagnostic before you start spending even more money.
 
Injectors were tested with a Snap-on Nexus system and all flow 100%. Charts read perfect 1-6, no abnormalities in flow volume whatsoever.
 
I know you mentioned the lift pump has been replaced but I think the next step would be to verify fuel pressure to the cp3 pump with a gauge. See if you can duplicate issue with gauge connected.
 
I know you mentioned the lift pump has been replaced but I think the next step would be to verify fuel pressure to the cp3 pump with a gauge. See if you can duplicate issue with gauge connected.

That doesn't matter or set a code, as soon as the Engine runs the gear low pressure pump within the CP3 sucks the fuel itself that it needs, the Lift Pump is more to prevent cavitation within the unit.
 
Bad ground on the first pin of the lift pump. Wired 12 volts to it from a battery and placed it in a 5 gallon bucket full of diesel, the pump would operate but also would flow choppy with a lot of air bubbles present whereas the new lift pump operated a smooth, continuous flow of diesel.

Cleared the code and ran the pickup, no further problems.

FYI: in the future if anyone has this problem on the common rail pickups, an easy way to test your pump is to simply undo the supply side of the lift pump and have someone turn the key over to the on position. If it sprays like holy hell, then it is good. If it is choppy and full of bubbles, probably on its way out. It will be easier to do this by simply removing the driver side rear tire and the filler hose from the tank, there is a pretty good window in there to work on the top of the fuel tank. Additionally, the voltmeter came in handy once more. The red lock pin on the electrical connection is a pain but once you get it moving, it’s all pretty straightforward. Last note: dielectric grease! Always, always. Never go full tilt in a tank drop project without finishing the job with that stuff, it’ll save a lot of future or current frustration
 
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