P0234, P0336

[JRG]

Threw these two codes:



P0234 Turbocharger Overboost Condition

P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor Preformance



My question is what exactly they mean,

AND

What would be the exact cause.



Not in my sig is a recently installed 130 hp Volumizer.



JRG

 

[DLeno]

The box is not boost fooling correctly (this prevents the overboost code), and its connections to or manipulations of the crank position sensor is making the ECM unhappy.



You need to contact the seller and work this out. The box itself maybe bad or its engine connections / wiring harnesses faulty.

 

[JRG]

Doug,



It kicked on the engine light, then the light went out later that day. I believe the light came on when I downshifted (to keep from spinning the torq converter) to pass a dump truck then I shifted back into overdrive, but I think I was already over red line at the time of up shift. Does the boost fooler have a limit?



Will the engine light come on again even if the codes haven't been cleared yet? (assuming th same ondition occures)



Thanks, JRG

 

[SRadke]

JRG, how are your egt's with that box and the injectors? How much boost are you seeing? You must be pushing the limits of the stock turbo.



-Scott

 

[DLeno]

Originally posted by JRG

Doug,



It kicked on the engine light, then the light went out later that day. I believe the light came on when I downshifted (to keep from spinning the torq converter) to pass a dump truck then I shifted back into overdrive, but I think I was already over red line at the time of up shift. Does the boost fooler have a limit?



Will the engine light come on again even if the codes haven't been cleared yet? (assuming th same ondition occures)



Thanks, JRG

I believe the answer to your last question is "yes". more on that later.



the boost fooler shouldn't have a limit -- in the box that is. it should cap MAP value at some figure regardless of what it measures. You need to put an OBD2 scanner on there and read MAP directly. that will tell you how the boost fooler is behaving. The 2nd gens will try to de-fuel when they see overboost, and then if that is not succesful the ECM throws overboost code. I expect the 3rd gens are similar. It still sounds to me like the boost fooler is not working right.



and the crank position sensor code gets get when the timing functions of the box make the ECM unhappy. the crank and the cam have to be razor dead on in phase with each other or you get the code.



As I think about this, both of these problems can be caused by faulty connections or a bad wiring harness, bent pins, etc. Its not likely that the electronics would behave in this way -- at least I've not heard of boxes doing this or suddenly breaking in this way. The Volumizer is not known for setting codes -- its more likely that the box was DOA, for either bad electronics or bad external physical wiring. Or some connection or pin broke or bent during the installation.



I think the MIL will turn off sometimes after a certain number of start-stops or warmup cycles, even if a code is present (come codes don't even set the MIL). Also, I believe the MIL will come on again only if an engine condition presents itself again or a new one appears. I dont think it will come on just because an old code hasnt' been cleared. In your case, if the MIL comes on again that suggests that one or more codes re-appeared. A scanner would show the timestamp of the code.



If I remember right this is a new box? I think I would talk to the seller and get it exhanged. keep us posted.

 

[JRG]

Doug,



This is an older box, when they first came out, 130 hp. I purchased it from someone who got a 600. Didn't throw any codes on his truck but I know that doesn't mean any thing. I am trying to figure out if it is user/installer error or not. Did not throw a code right away so I wasn't sure if it was the box itself. I will take your advice and inspect all wiring and connections, maybe a little dielectric grease? I need to get a cheep scan tool and teach myself how to use it, I'll check on Ebay. Locally I found a something 1000 for $160, not sure I want to spend that much.



I will say that the combination of PRESSURE + TIMING + INJECTORS is impressive. So far my max EGT is 1350+/-. I can spin the torque converter, so I have to roll into the throttle on the 100% setting. On the 50% (approx 60 hp) the converter holds, a total of about 140 hp. (80 hp injectors) No idea of boost #'s. I still am not sure what is being done on the different settings but I do know when switching to the high setting on the fly there is a big surge in power. Smoke is minimal on ALL settings.



I don't know what stock feels like as my injectors were dealer installed before taking delivery, but it is amazing what these motors are capable of.



JRG

 

[DLeno]

ok that clears some things up. Well, we know from Mark Chapple's experience that one truck may be different from another, as regards throwing codes with a timing box. It's possible that the early Volumizer's were more susceptable to throwing codes I dont' know. Given the HP actually produced by the box (from the dyno I saw), I would say that not much timing is going on. Its difficult to conclude that Volumizer was more than a year ahead of the rest of the world in getting timing right -- at least at the levels of advance that TST is at now. So that makes me conclude that the Volumizer is not radical in its timing advance and so what little timing it does would make it a more reliable in the timing department than others of the same vintage.



Which is to conclude that either you are unlucky or that some sort of wiring harness issue is going on. So yes, what I would do is clean/inspect all connections -- get some TV tuner cleaner from Radio shack and spray on the contacts. get a magnifiying glass out and make sure everything is spotless and that there is no debris in the contact areas, and that all is straight, etc. The greese is to seal against moisture -- it won't help in your diagnosis (greese/no greese makes no difference) but after you clean everything the greese is good for long term reliability.



If contacts are tarnished and spotted, you might need to get more serious and burnish them. Some old tricks (stuff to rub on with to restore low resistance contact) for relay contacts and old TV tuners include paper and a mild pencil eraser. then follow with the tuner cleaner and greese. Old connectors especially can beneift from re-tensioning -- essentially bending the copper segments of the connector (to the extent that is possible) so that they grip tighter.



Also, for an old harness, its possible for wires to break inside the insulation, usually right at the end where a wire enters a molded connector. not much you can do about that, save perhaps taping things up so that the wire exits horizontally with no bends.



So I would suggest you go through all the obove to rule out any connector issues. If you still get the crank position sensor code try disconnecting both crank and cam connectors just to see (as an experiment) if the box appears to perform. You'll have to remove both crank and cam connectors though and hook back up as stock. leave the pressure port and MAP sensor connected.



Actually, I would be highly interested to know how the box performs without the cam and crank connected.



As for the boost code, aside from the connector issue you may have a box problem. If you're interested in a scanner and you have a laptop, check out obd-2.com. I have the Alex Pepper software on my labtop and like it a lot. good luck and keep us posted.