P2201 Code

[rrnut-2]

Well, the truck has had this code for a while. I know what it is but I couldn't find the NoX sensor even after watching videos.

So, the wife schedules service at the local dealership and they tell her $90 dollars just to trouble shoot. WOW! I read the codes, I know whats wrong, but the wife gets it in her mind to do something and nobody can convince her otherwise. And she tells the dealership that if its less than $1k to fix it. I here I am screaming NO! Its falling on deaf ears.

Jim

 

[Ozymandias]

Was your truck ever updated through the years?
There was also a recall for that code and the associated sensor. Done that?

 

[rrnut-2]

Yes, it was updated with the new DPF/convertor? Something big and expensive for RAM. The truck also has 93k on it, so I was wondering if the exhaust system is still warrantied.

Jim

 

[Ozymandias]

That means your upper NoX sensor is gone, that's why you can't find it.
I guess you need a dealer to check that out as you can't fix something that isn't there anymore.

Could be under warranty still, you might wanna call ram care about that before talking to a dealer.

 

[Mike Wenrich]

Had this happen on my 2014, twice. Replaced with a Dorman (read cheaper) option and that failed with less than 1K miles. Then put a Cummins sensor in and so far it's held up. But if yours is an early build like mine (Sept 2013) your sensor may be in a different place than later 14's. Mine is mounted below the turbo on the side rail and the later models have it moved back further, away from the heat. Probably why they moved it. Only had 40K miles.

 

[rrnut-2]

Build date 9-13; ok that explains why I couldn't find it. I found the sensor, its only about 1.5" from the turbo and the wire is covered with metal tape.
Now to go looking for the module.

 

[Mike Wenrich]

It's on the side but buried and a PIA to get off. The lead to the sensor has several ties and I rerouted mine to make it easier to thread the sensor into the pipe while the lead wires are still on. The box is located perpendicular to the rail with 4 screws, two of which you cannot get to without removing the mounting plate. On mine the passenger side battery ground is connected to that bracket and then if I recall then connected to the block. So mm sockets are required. I removed the front wheel and fender liner then it's pretty easy to see but not easy to remove. The later ones are much easier. If I had time to think this thru I might have tried to figure how to relocate it but the lead wires coming to the sensor harness would have to be lengthened and I did not know how to do that. This part is expensive but I found the RAM/Cummins part for around $900. If you can, check with a Cummins dealer rather than RAM. They want about $1400 or so.

 

[rrnut-2]

I just had the truck over to the neighbors garage, a warm place to work, and we went looking for the module. I saw the bracket that you are talking about, but didn't see the module. Like you said, its a pita to see and get to. But I would rather we do it our selfs than to pay a dealer to do it.
Now to talk the wife into letting me do it myself.

Jim B

 

[Mike Wenrich]

It's tough to get to it because it's between the rail and block as I recall. Four screws/nuts hold it on the mounting plate but the replacement I bought had the plate with it and of course the long foil wrapped electric lead and sensor that looks like any other oxygen sensor. That screws into the exhaust elbow and is also tough to get to with a large end wrench. One of those inch worm kinda things where you turn it a little at a time and wonder if you are ever going to find the end of the threads. Has some carbon on it but the new one spins in easier. Once the battery ground is off there is a bolt to hold the plate as I recall that has threads on the end for the ground cable. Then you use a deep socket to get the bolt off. Small hands are a plus but I would avoid asking the wife to help on this one.

So if you pick up the part look to see if it has the plate attached so you don't have to spend time taking that apart. My good part came in a MOPAR box but was a Cummins part...not FCA. Some on this forum have used the Dorman part with success but others like me had that one fail. I was able to return it but you don't want to do this twice if you can afford the better part.

 

[rrnut-2]

Last night I had to listen to the million excuses of why I couldn't do the repair. So, I am going to let her take it to the dealer to troubleshoot...read the codes for $90...and get an estimate. I bet that she will change her mind after that.
Thank you for the information about the Cummins part with a bracket. I will look for that.

Jim B

 

[Mike Wenrich]

Just an FYI, my estimates from local shops was $1400-$1600 and one that would do it for $1000. Did not price the dealer since they are a long way from me and would be even more. The lower price was because the shop was not making a profit on the part. Just cost of the part plus labor. Typical RAM part that is too expensive for what it is. Not a fun job but you can save some money if you are up to working in tight spaces and have the necessary mm tools. I recall the sensor on the pipe is a very large nut size and a stubby end wrench would have been helpful. Considered cutting mine then figured I would just deal with it the hard way since I'm retired and have time.

I'm curious if you also have the turbo lag aka dead pedal problem since you have 410 gears. I have the 342 with Aisin and pretty bad delay in throttle response when flooring it. Gradual pedal increase is okay. Factory rep said some are even worse than mine but I put a pedal device in that helps that somewhat. That device part number has since been upgraded by the company and maybe I need to spend another $265 to make it better. If EPA is watching this thread...I didn't do nuthin'.

 

[rrnut-2]

I haven't noticed the dead pedal problem, maybe its because I am used to it...I don't know. I have considered going to a gas job just because of the repair bills that will probably show up, but I like the power, torque and exhaust brake on this truck. The interesting side note of this truck is, a long time friend said that he would never get a truck this big. Him, his wife, granddaughter, my wife and I drove from NH to Oregon in this truck and pulling a 20ft enclosed trailer full of 1.5" scale trains. When we got back, he ordered a truck identical to mine except red.

Jim B

 

[Mike Wenrich]

I too have been considering selling mine and going back to gas but for different reasons although the repair prospect has me concerned. It's not that I cannot afford the repair it's the sudden derate that has me concerned. I've already seen two RAMs of our vintage chugging up a mountain road at 5MPH in derate with a stream of cars behind them. If EPA would get off our back it might be a different story. But like you I sure would miss the exhaust brake, power and torque. I sold my camper that was on the back and now do not have the great need for this truck. Bought a used Class C motor home. Getting too old to climb on/off those overhead beds If I would have purchased a trailer instead the 2014 would still be desirable. Thanks for the feedback re: the dead pedal and good luck with the repair.

 

[rrnut-2]

Mike, do you have a part number for the Cummins sensor? The wife finally decided that it was to expensive to have the dealer read the codes. Too bad, I was kind of interested in what they were going to quote to replace this module.

 

[Mike Wenrich]

I do not. I tossed the old sensor in the box the new one came in and don't have the paper work either. But I found the part on line so should not be too hard to locate it. A Cummins dealer would be able to provide that as well. As I mentioned, I recommend them over the Dorman product in this case. I have used some Dorman parts that work fine but this one failed in under a thousand miles. It also did not come with the bracket.

 

[rrnut-2]

Just an update. I bought a new sensor from DPF Parts. I got the Redline #S11873. I haven't had the time to install it yet between my schedule
and my neighbors schedule. I am using his garage and in this freezing weather the plow/sand truck gets the priority.

Jim Bronson

 

[Cummins2014]

Just an update. I bought a new sensor from DPF Parts. I got the Redline #S11873. I haven't had the time to install it yet between my schedule
and my neighbors schedule. I am using his garage and in this freezing weather the plow/sand truck gets the priority.

Jim Bronson

I also had the same code ,started a thread on here ,it's down below yours . Take a look at #13 reply to me. It gives a couple web sites for those sensors. The one on the Moparpowertrain.com is the one I need for the code P2201 Nox Sensor 1, that's the one on the turbo downpipe.

If you take a look inside your right fender well , just left of the bottom part of the oil filter you will see that housing for that sensor, you will see those red spacers like in the picture that it shows on that moparpowertrain link on reply #13 on my thread . Unless yours is in a different place , the sensor itself is in the same place ,that's screwed into the top of the downpipe on the turbo.

Mopar part # for that Nox sensor 1, is 68210084AA , that one you bought sure looks like the other sensor on the SCR . Your code is not for that rear sensor , P2201 is for the one on the turbo downpipe, Unless yours is located in a different place than my 2014, and the housing is different.

You might want to read thru my thread.

 

[Cummins2014]

Was your truck ever updated through the years?
There was also a recall for that code and the associated sensor. Done that?

Wasn't that recall T05 ,and they removed the ammonia sensor that was throwing codes ?

 

[Cummins2014]

That means your upper NoX sensor is gone, that's why you can't find it.
I guess you need a dealer to check that out as you can't fix something that isn't there anymore.

Could be under warranty still, you might wanna call ram care about that before talking to a dealer.

It's the ammonia sensor they removed, Its the T05 recall I believe you are talking about , I read my paperwork what was done on that recall, it wasn't a nox sensor ,as said it was the ammonia sensor .

 

[rrnut-2]

Well here is an update. Wednesday, I started the job of changing the Nox Sensor. First problem, my arms needed to be at least a foot longer. The sensor itself came out of the elbow fairly easy. The module however, I got the top bolt out of the bracket, but I could not get onto the second bolt straight on. Using an angle joint on the socket and extension, I tried to get it off with the impact wrench; no luck. I could not get to the second little bolt that holds the module on. I had started at 7:30am and finish with putting the truck back together at 6pm. Also lost an 8mm wrench, 8mm socket and a nice Snap-On flex head ratchet down into the plastic pan under the engine. I could not get them back out, oh well!

I am going to bring the truck to the dealer and let them do it and cry over the bill later.

The agony of defeat!

Jim B