Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) p7100 removal - torx bolts?

[Nordby]

Guys, my p7100 is not coming out. Crankcase cover is off for kdp killing and reseal, the pump shaft nut is off, the 4 15mm nuts on the pump side of the case are off. The 2 10mm bolts to the pump support are off. We are seeing slack and can move it around, but it won't slide out.



Do the 4 torx bolts have to come out, that go from the front of the crankcase into the pump? These are only visible with the case off.



Looking at the cummins manual, and the 1997 chrysler manual instructions, we have covered all items mentioned in the procedures for removal.



Thanks for any hints, sorry for the basic question, searches on this topic didn't seem to cover the issue I am having.



thanks,jon (a first gen bosch ve guy making the jump).

 

[Jim Fulmer]

As long as you have the pump nut off and gear popped off, then it's the 4 nuts you were talking about along with the 2 bolts then the usual stuff out of the way, once your there put a pry bar or big screw driver between the pump and the front housing and pry it back. When you install it stab it back on then grab the back of the pump and wiggle it in flush then put the nuts on and tighten.



Jim

 

[Nordby]

Thanks Jim, trying that, though I didn't really give it the heaveho. A friend holding and wiggling from the back, me prying with a driver up front. Even tapping with a rubber mallet.



The 4 bolts I am referring to are only visible when the drive gear nut and gear are removed. They are small brass #40 torx bolts, hiding behind the gear itself.



jon

 

[Jim Fulmer]

No those don't have to come out... ... let me put it this way, it takes less than an hour to pull the pump when you've done it a few times.



Jim

 

[Sled Puller]

The O-ring likes to hang up, thats all.

 

[T-Bone]

Hi Jon,



Found a pic in this thread... a little late. Hope you got things worked out.



T-Bone

 

[Nordby]

Sled Puller wins! O-ring was beating up T-bone ( That you tom?) and I pulling, pounding, and prying. Looking at the O-ring, I am embarassed to say it had me fooled. The key to the whole thing was prying between the back side of the housing, and the actual pump. Anything else (tapping, prying anywhere but between the housing and the pump, a couple beers and one pulling/moving and the other praying/wood mallet pounding) did not work. I'm "first gen impaired" and the VE comes out so close to this I figured I was missing something.



Thanks for the patience folks, I'll come up to speed on this 2nd gen eventually,

jon.



p. s. Thanks Tom for the help I , uh, broke into those Coors about 4pm... .

 

[T-Bone]

Hi Jon,



Yep, I'm T-Bone. Glad to hear you got things apart. Funny that an o-ring could hang things up like that. And thanks again for the horn buttons. Saved me a bunch over what the dealer wanted!



Tom

ps. Good to see those beers were put to good use!

 

[DJb]

Yup, know what you mean about 1st time working on stuff. I'm a first time owner of a 97 also and just got through doing the KDP. It was right where it's supposed to be so my job was simple but it took a lot longer than I anticipated but I'm learning fast lol. What burns me up is the mix of metric and SAE bolts... . but that always has been an issue with me.

 

[Nordby]

T-bone hit it on the head when we were pulling it - we were just thinking too dang much and not doing. We managed to convince ourselves since we were such smart capable guys, and that it wasn't coming out, that the manuals must be wrong. Har har.



I agree DJB, when I pulled the engine and axles outta this thing, I used every standard and metric tool I own (wrench, socket, torx, deep socket, shallow socket, blah blah... ) plus a few I didn't own, plus every extension (in every combination), universal-joint, channel-locks, hammers, and vice grips. That is about half the list! Bet I get better at it as I get used to this engine.



jon