PacBrake Lube needed

[ScottLewis]

I'm in Yuma, AZ for a couple of weeks and in need of some lube for my PacBrake which has stuck closed a couple of times this week. I do use the brake every day and pull hard at times on hills so doubt it's carboned up. I tried the local Harbor Freight for a Super Lube oiler and found they don't stock them there.
Does anyone where I can get some locally here?

 

[LarsG]

Try Yuma Diesel Service.

 

[HGreen]

I had the same problem back in the summer, found the small bronze filter on the end of the cylinder had cruded up and wouldn't let the cylinder retrace, cleaned it and replaced. did it again about a month later, so I made a relocation one using rubber tubing and a hose barb to fit the cylinder, mounted it up on the firewall, the is working great. used some air compressor oil to lube the inside of the cylinder.

 

[MLee]

I know you want it right-a-way, thats why you want to find it locally, BUT Pacbrake has it for about $13.00 total shipped. Call them and they will get it in the mail to you. They will also diagnose your problem.

 

[ScottLewis]

Thanks for the tips. I'll try local truck supply's for the lube this AM. If I can't get the PacBrake Lube I plan to try PB Blaster for a temporary fix until I get the right stuff sent to me.

 

[jelag]

I was a pacbrake dealer for 20 years..... if you have a brake that is nitrated you most likely have another problem... plugged vent filter... etc... If you have blue painted casting than you might need the lube....

Remember that to apply the lube correctly you need to take the brake off the turbo and lube it from the inside...

Also note that I never found a product that would withstand the heat... and not burn up like the PacBrake Lube... if it has oil in it... it will bake out and create more problems...

 

[MLee]

Pacbrake lube is a synthetic high temp lube and designed for there product. I don't think PB blaster is going to be your answer, and may make it worse.

Jim, the vent filter you refere to is that the brass thing on the vacuum relay? as mentioned above? just clean that also.

 

[jelag]

the cylinder should have a vent on the other end of the cylinder... to keep dirt from the other side of the cylinder... Mine is 10/32 threads... I bought mine at granger's the last time I needed one... from the solenoid the air line travels to a valve on the end of the cylinder... this is a one way valve attached to the cylinder... this valve is to quickly vent the cylinder.. so that the spring in the cylinder can return it to open the valve... this valve is a dump valve... when it see's higher air pressure in the cylinder with the air pressure falling in the line... it opens and dumps the air out of the cylinder allowing the air to escape quickly... I've never seen this valve go bad... So my bet is on the filter on the end of the cylinder closest to the rod...

Hope this helps...

 

[ScottLewis]

Thanks Jim and all. If all else fails I can pull my RV home without using the brake. I'll double check the filter in the morning but when I was inspecting it today it seemed pretty clean.

 

[Bob V]

Don't forget that the valve that operates the brakes can also stick. A disassemble and clean/lube will take care of it, but there are small parts.

 

[ScottLewis]

Bob V won the prize.
I kept checking one thing and another and finally found that the solenoid plunger was sticking. On inspection, it had a film inside that looked like moisture had gotten in there . After cleaning it all up, I noticed that the rubber seal on the end of the plunger also had a small cut/groove where it sealed against the small supply orifice. I've searched the net in the hope I could replace just the plunger but haven't found one yet. A new solenoid valve from Pac Brake is about $73 plus shipping. I couldn't find one anywhere else online. My plan is to insert a moisture filter in the line to the valve when I replace it after I get home.