Painless Fuse Box to Ign Hot Wire

[MikeGenova]

Concerned about multiplex wiring on our trucks and splicing same, I see you guys have been doing it, have you guys had any trouble. We are still under warrenty and wondered if Dodge would give us any trouble if we spliced into the wiring. Also does splicing threaten any of the computers?

 

[Ducman82]

you should have no problem. if you have a good connection and dont short out anywires you will have no computer problems.

 

[grabinov]

I followed the Painless instructions for wiring the same box into my 2004 and had no problems. It's amazing how well the thing works. Put a note inside your regular fuse/relay box under the hood to remind you that there are more fuses you need to check if something stops working. I shorted a light accidentally and spent 15 minutes looking for the bad fuse before I remembered that I had fuses inside the separate Painless box!

 

[CKelley1]

no problem and i will never own another truck with out one

 

[MikeGenova]

Just installed the painless today and everything went well and is nice and neat. Will be starting on the gauges tomorrow.

 

[rbattelle]

if you have a good connection

Which means "if you don't use any of those plastic 'tee taps'". Those things are the single worst invention in the history of electricity.



Ryan

 

[TurboCanScoot]

Hi Mike,



I am doing the same thing. Three years ago when I bought the truck I put in some gauges (pyro, transmission temp, boost pressure) and some lights. I am adding a backup camera and fuel rail pressure and lift pump pressure gauges. I figured I would take the time and clean up the wiring and install painless fuse panel as well. I have been scrounging the manual for a good place to tap the ignition hot. Where did you tap yours?



I modified the top fuse panel to run the lights (one 40amp service). I clipped the ignition hot to one of the relays and am bringing it into a switch for the lights. I attached the fuse panel with industrial strength velcro so if something pops I can pull the panel from under the dash and change the fuse.



Thanks Richard

 

[MikeGenova]

I tapped to the red cigerette lighter wire, it was right there and easy to get to. Just take out the screw by that hook and the whole dash pops off. Thats where it seems like alot of these guys are tapping into.

 

[RDHamill]

I always run a seperate wire directly to the battery, (protected by a fuse) that way my add ons are completely seperate from the OE wiring.

 

[rbattelle]

I always run a seperate wire directly to the battery, (protected by a fuse) that way my add ons are completely seperate from the OE wiring.

I agree, that's how it should be done for power. But Mike was looking for an ignition trigger, not the main power wire, for this thread.



Ryan

 

[Ducman82]

i used a painless kit with a relayed power to the fuse panel from painless. i spliced in to the ingnition hot when keyed. its mounted up under the knee plate.

 

[Loren]

Which means "if you don't use any of those plastic 'tee taps'". Those things are the single worst invention in the history of electricity.



Ryan

I agree. I was crawling around under my truck in the rain, at midnight, 100 miles from home because one of those cut through the wire but didn't separate it.



I finally touched the right spot and the wire came apart.



Never again!

 

[RDHamill]

Connector C219 ( on the left side of the firewall, right above the clutch ( if equipped) has a pink and yellow wire at pin 36. this is the feed for the cigar lighter. you could tap into it there, and not have to take the dash apart.

good luck

 

[JaredH]

Help

Current Ignition Hot Set-up:

Edge - Fuse 30 "Spare"

AirDog - Fuse 40 "Cigar Lighter"

*These both use the add-a-circuit fuse in the factory fuse box



I do not like how both of the above come on in Aux key setting. I want them to turn on in the "Run/Start" position only.



I am adding a Painless Circuit Boss with the Constant ON and Ignition ON circuits and want to change the Ignition Hot trigger.



I have looked at many posts ... many mention using the cigar lighter circuit (ON- in the Aux, Run, Start), that's the same as what I have. One mentioned using the Gray/Pink Wire (C3 - 15) coming out of the back of the fuse box, but this is linked up to the Anti-lock Brakes, Engine control module, and powertrain control module -- Rather not touch that one if you know what I mean.



Has anyone tried the Pink/Light Green wire (C3 - 17)? It is connected to the Motor Blower (for A/C).



Your recommendation to use for Ignition HOT trigger? I do NOT want it to be hot in the AUX key position.



Could selecting the wrong wire cause any codes?



Thanks,

Jared

 

[rbattelle]

I used Pin 1 of heater controls connector C1 (circuit F15). Works only with ignition on.

Ryan

 

[WOT]

On an '07 (early) what wire will work for a "run" only ignition wire? I don't want it hot in "aux". I have a 2005 manual, but no 2007... yet.

TIA

 

[seafish]

I too will soon be installing my wiring kit...

I am wondering what the total rated draw for the kit is ??

I am also wondering if it would be a good idea to run a wire from the kit to EACH battery, in parallel, so that the voltage stays the same, but the current is drawn equally from BOTH batteries. Of course, the wire at each battery would be protected by a fuse/circuit breaker !!

Isn't that how the factory fuse box is wired??

Is this a good idea or simply a waste of time??

TIA

 

[JaredH]

Not sure on the '07 wiring... Maybe someone can send you some of the wiring diagrams... I would if I had them!



Are you wanting to place the fuse box in the cab or under the hood?



Looks like the Cirkit Boss (70207/70217) weather resistant boxes have 30 OR 40A rated relays.





Hadn't crossed my mind to wire it to both batteries... . how many accessories you plan to run, maybe start using LEDs, lol? IMO the large guage wire from the factory that connects them would equalize the voltage between the batteries... I am no electrical guru though...

 

[WOT]

I'm planning on putting the fuse box in the cab (left side of dash like the TurboCanScoot did).

I'm not sure running line to both batteries is necessary unless you are going to pull a BUNCH of juice. That's why the factory has a big fat wire between them already.

 

[seafish]

I'm planning on putting the fuse box in the cab (left side of dash like the TurboCanScoot did).



I'm not sure running line to both batteries is necessary unless you are going to pull a BUNCH of juice. That's why the factory has a big fat wire between them already.

WOT, JaredH...



thanks for the info... I am planing to do the install on eithert the LS or RS dash panel. Current draw is MOSTLY for bright auxiliary lights front and back, but I will do the math first and keep it within specs .