Painless Wiring fuse block location

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Anybody that has the Painless kit, where did you install it on your truck? I have the non-waterproof kind, making it an interior-only installation...

 

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Briar Hopper--Put mine to the right of the gas pedal, up high, very near to a heater damper actuator and associated pnuematic plug junction. Ran the hot wire out to the drivers side battery, (alonge with 30 amp breaker), and the #14 pink to the # 17? terminal left side of dash fuse panel. It's outa the way, yet easy to see if you need to inspect for blown fuses. $. 02 worth P. S. , Cut the black ground wire terminal off, use a in-line crimp connector and add 3ft (or so), of #14 or 16 black wire, and run it to a sheetmetal ground over by the inside fuse panel. All the wire is for is a 12V neg for the interlock relay, for "ignition hot" circuits.

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2K1 auto 4x4 QC dooley--stock as a rock--except for shiney stuff.

[This message has been edited by frijole (edited 09-08-2000). ]

 

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Hi: I put mine under the knee bolster(inside actually) remove the bottom scews and the top snaps off. On the bottom side is a metal frame. This is where I screwed it in. It is pictured in an old TDR from 1 1/2 years ago?? One of the scews grounds the ignition supply relay. That is an important ground.

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P. Campbell 1998. 5 ISB 2500 auto green/driftwood

 

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Hey Pete, good hearin' from you again! #ad


Just thought I would add my $. 02 (mounting location) in this thread... just to give you another choice. I have the waterproof model although, I could have gotten by with the non-waterproof model at my mounting location. After MUCH pondering over the available "real estate" left in which to mount (any accessory, much less) the Painless Wiring Cirkit Boss, I elected to mount it beneath the drivers seat, on the inside of the outboard, verticle steel seat mount. Very trick and very accessible. The only down side (if you could really call it that) was the necessity to lengthen the output wires (color coded of course) to allow access to these wires without having to lift the carpet every time you want to add an accessory. The coiled wires (excess) are placed just beneath the carpet at the top edge, next to the emergency brake cable. The installation does not even require an incision in the carpeting to route the wires underneath the seat... a slit is made in the carpeting for routing the power seat track wiring. This has worked very well for me, allowing easy access to the fuses. #ad

 

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Briar Hopper-

I just did mine two days ago. I mounted mine just like Peter. It was really a breeze. I ordered mine from Genos and they sent me a reprint of the TDR article. Very helpfull. Did you get a copy of that article? If not I could fax you a copy Saturday 9/9. Let me know here or via email. How did you guys tap the fuse panel for the "Ignition On" signal? The kit came with a fuse tap for the large size fuses and our trucks have the mini fuses. I am waiting for a Littlefuse Add-A-Circut to come in the mail to tap one of the fuses.

Dave.

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99 QC SB 4x4 Auto
Factory Ordered
Most Options

 

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I solder/heat shrink spliced into the radio (switched 12v+) wire as I'm not a fan of the fuse connector lugs.

 

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Dave,

You will find that you will have to do a "modification" on the Littlefuse Add A Circuit to get it to fit into the Dodge fuse panel. You will need to file away some of the plastic around the part that goes into the fuse panel because it's too thick. Cut away a little material at the time and check or you will get down too far and expose the metal. I have used 2 Littlefuse Add A Circuits- 1 for the Painless Wiring Kit and the other for hooking up the lights(terminal 5A) for my gauges.

Bill

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Y2K 3500QC, 6 Speed, 4. 10, SLT+, Camper & Tow Pkg. , Westin Chrome Nerf Bars, Mopar Flaps, Reese 20K Hitch, EGT & Boost Gauges, RPM 45 Gallon Aux. Fuel Tank, Highway Products 5th Wheel Toolbox, ECM Controlled PacBrake, Painless Wiring Kit, Mag-Hytec Diff. Cover, Rancho 9000, 80% Towing Hitchhiker II 31', 2 slideouts, 19,750 GCW, Lance 990 Camper

 

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I too just installed mine two days ago,and mounted it in the same location Pete Campbell described(TDR issue#26,pg. 84). I didn't wan't to use the small mounting screws that came with the kit,so I unbolted the cross-brace behind the knee bolster(6 screws +2 for the hood release hold the brace in place),and drilled for two 6mm mounting bolts. There's no way this thing's ever gonna move!
I just need to finish with attaching the pink wire to the fuse panel. I don't like the jumper idea and will be soldering this connection.

-Mike

 

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All-use a crimp-on fork terminal on the pink wire for the "ignition hot" lead. Pull what ever is in fuse location #17, and insert the fork terminal, it fits just like a fuse! Then just take whatever was in location #17, and come off the new sub-panel-(painless fuse block).