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Paint Information

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Okay, I'm going to do it- no more grey primer hood for me. I am going to start getting estimates to have my truck painted. Any suggestions for paint type would be appreciated-one of my friends said DuPont imron(sp?) is the way to go. Am I going to get gouged for having half of the OEM dodge paint still on my truck? ALso want to have the rubber fender flares and all side mouldings removed and replaced or re-applied. Is welding in the old towing mirror holes in my doors the only way to fill them in correctly-I now have the smaller chrome mirrors. Also-what about replacing the fenders-is Chrysler the only source for these? The former owner must have crashed the truck, theres some scary bondowork on both front fenders. I don't know what questions to ask or what to look for. Any help, education, or suggestions would be appreciated-Also how much does a good paint job ushually run?
91. 5 D-350(SRW) Banks exhaust and 16cm turbo, power wagon injectors, optima dual red top batteries, borgeson steering shaft, Power lock rear diff, Snug top shell, Warn 9K winch and custom bumper, EGT, PYRO, and Tach. American racing 8X16 alum wheels, tweaked pump at 1. 44mm, preluber pump.
 
Patrick, Imron is very good paint but also very expesive to purchase and apply. The generic name for this type of paint is urethane enamel. You must also use epoxy primer under this type of paint. Most of the major paint mfg make a urethane enamel. The OEM paint on your truck should be a base coat clear coat system. As far as matching, your truck is 10 years old, even if you had a can of the original paint it would probly not match perfectly, probably best to repaint whole truck. If you wish to remove the side mouldings, the paint will most likely be damaged, they are put on with 2 sided tape.
Body repairs are always best done by welding, to fill in the bolt holes first clean up to bare metal, put a small patch on the inside and weld from the outside (mig weld). Do it slowly don't weld or grind to much at a time, the door skin warps easily.
Replacement fenders from Mopar are rather expensive, try a local wrecker, ask about southern parts, usualy good rust free parts are good deal. If you are handy replacing the front fenders and partialy prepping your truck would be a good way to save money on the overall job. Can't give you an idea of what a paint job would cost in your area.


Neil

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Neil Copeman 92 D250,LE,limited slip, 16cm turbo housing, Isspro gauges, factory tach option, Lear cap, DC crankdown tire carrier
Hadley air horns, Stealhorse leather seats, e-mail (home): bombedcummins@sympatico. ca
 
Hey Friend... I work at a body shop, and we spray with Glasurit {BASF} paints, they are top quality paints and you'll be satisfied... also may i recommend PPG paints, i've seen some nice street rods with PPG. . go check them out... {my 2 cents worth anyway}
Greg

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Greg's 1993 D250 4x2. . 5-speed. . extended cab. . longbed. . bright white. . tinted windows. . 4-inch pipe no muffler. . K&N air filter. . holes in air box. . 140,000 miles. Tweaked pump. PW injectors. {thanks Piers}. "The Phantom"
 
Hey Pat

Here is some info that I hope is of some help. For the Paint go see Rob Collins, he runs an auto body and paint shop in McCall. He painted my race car and I have recieved lots of nice compelments on it. He is probably not the cheapest guy in town though. As for the dyno in your other post try the Hot Rod shop in Boise, they have a Dyno Jet that they have run trucks on before.
 
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