Here I am

Painted rear pumpkin again.

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Let's open up the steering issue again

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The only thing that works for me is more spray paint. Every time I drop the fluid, I hit it with the dremel and some paint...



The things just rust, it seems... I suppose a PML diff cover would solve your problem, too...
 
I live in Salt Lake City and I will do that with mine. My old 01, I had the mag-hytec cover. . wonderful thing!. . I just had to paint the Axles. .

The paint I found that does the best is at Home Depot, it is in a silver can and it is an industrial Strength paint. . The can is a lot taller than most regular ones.
 
I used some hammer-finish paint (Derusto or Krylon, can't remember which) and it's held up really well over the last year or so.
 
Scraped off what hasn't flaked off. Wire brushed, primed and painted.



What have you tried, to keep it from getting all rusty?



Ever since I installed my PML covers, the rust problem went away, including the rust on diff housing.



My theory is that the stock oil capacity causes the pumpkin to get hot enough to deteriorate the paint off...



Obviously, the PML covers are power-coated alum, but they add lube capacity and have cooling fins...
 
Don't know if you have a local Ziebart dealership in your area, but I have my new trucks done immediately after purchase. I take them back once a year for the annual clean and inspection. Anyhow, whatever they coat the frame and axles with, keeps these things completely rust free, even with all of the road salt used around here.
 
On mine the paint has peeled and the metal is rusty, need to do something but was concerned about loss of radiational cooling if I put too much paint on? Maybe a shot of aluminum paint won't hurt. bg
 
Ever since I installed my PML covers, the rust problem went away, including the rust on diff housing.

My theory is that the stock oil capacity causes the pumpkin to get hot enough to deteriorate the paint off...


Same thoughts/experiences here... installed an ORU aluminum cover, and no more paint issues...

On edit, I wonder if the casting wasn't "cleaned" well before being painted and the heat from the differential is causing already poorly bonded paint to fail from impurities (oil) being driven off??? Cast iron is porous.
 
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It's amazing how shoddy Dodge paints the undersides of our trucks. Frames show signs of rust after a year, Axles and other pieces are totally rusted after 2 winters. I have 24k on my 2006 and underneath looks like I have 200k. I have a 66 GTO that has original paint on the rear axle that looks like it was done 3 years ago. Seeing that they call these trucks "Heavy Duty" you'd think they'd get some type of lasting protection underneath! Nothing sucks worse than working on rusty parts..... Or prepping rusty parts to repaint. My third brake light developed a leak this winter and I got a bit of water in the cab and in the carpet... . Just the moisture and humidity in the air from the leak has made the entire front seat bracket rust! Now it looks like crap, Hopefully DC will replace the bracket when I bring it in to have them fix the leak... . 7/70 warranty here.
 
If you look under all my seats and dash, the truck looks like it might have been in a flood! Tons of rust everywhere. My guess is they won't cover it. Remove the kick panel under your steering column and see if that looks rusty as well. Mine is.
 
If you look under all my seats and dash, the truck looks like it might have been in a flood! Tons of rust everywhere. My guess is they won't cover it. Remove the kick panel under your steering column and see if that looks rusty as well. Mine is.





There was a post ( Water Leak into Cab !!! ) in which DC replaced those parts rusted. Hopefully DC in my area will be as cool. A $54k truck with 24k on it should rust like some farm fresh 1974 F150 #@$%!
 
Ever since I installed my PML covers, the rust problem went away, including the rust on diff housing.



My theory is that the stock oil capacity causes the pumpkin to get hot enough to deteriorate the paint off...



Obviously, the PML covers are power-coated alum, but they add lube capacity and have cooling fins...



Probably some truth to the heat issue. Which brings up a question for our more technically oriented members:



A. What is the operating temp for the differential?



B. How do you install a temp sensor there?



(I know the OTR rigs have them... )



I am going to post the temp issue as an original question, also.
 
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