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Painting a cap............questions

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So, I've had this cap for a long time. It's green, truck is solid black.
I'd like to paint it.
There is a paint distributor near me, what is the best type of paint to use? It's "no name" brand paint. $60/gallon.:)
Last car I painted was using Ditzler catalyzed acrylic enamel (with the hardener). It's been a while (30+ yrs ago) but it didn't seem like rocket science.
Local guys want more than the cap is worth to do it.:mad:
I'd like to stay away from the basecoat/clearcoat thing.
It's more than likely being done in a tent, so I'd like to avoid prolonging the process if at all possible. It'll be a challenge enough to keep my dog from messing everything up.

I'm thinking like this:

*Degreaser/dewaxer.
*Sand/400 grit
*degrease/dewax
*wetsand/800=1000
*degrease/dewax
*fill in holes in roof. One of the previous owners had racks there at one point in it's life. I just siliconed them shut when I discovered this.
*Prime
*light sand
*Paint.

Am I forgetting anything?
Most important is, what type of pains should I use?


Mods....I hope I put this in the correct section.....Feel free to move wherever it's most appropriate.
 
www.eastwood.com
One of the best sites out there. Please do your homework on the paint system you're going to use, and your protection. I'm no bodyman, but I do know that some basic paints and clears are real toxic nowadays.
 
I did some painting in the 70'S, but when I wanted my old cap painted about 15 years ago I took it to the vo tec and paid them $50 and let the students do it.
 
I'm pretty sure they stopped taking in cars from the outside in vo-techs due to litigious people around here.
I'll check out Eastwood, but I'm pretty sure it's out of my price range. I know they sell good stuff.....

Not looking for show quality, hell I haven't waxed my truck in probably a year or two. Just want it to be decent.
IMO the truck is above average in the paint/rust/dents dept (or lack of rust/dents) the cap is forrest green and VERY sun blistered.
It just brings the entire truck down....
 
I painted mine myself using rattle cans and it has been perfect for 5 or more years now. I did the work in my garage, setting the cap on sawhorses. I just removed all hardware (for roof rack), sanded it lightly, masked it off and primed it (spray can). Then I bought out the whole city of Colorado Springs of color match paint (each auto parts store only had 2 cans each) and sprayed it. Then I used a clear coat spray (Rustoleum, I think) to finish it. Looks like a perfect match to my truck and like I said, has lasted a long time and still looks great. The hardest part was the masking job. Other than that it was done in 1 weekend.

TOP1.jpg

TOP2.jpg


TOP1.jpg


TOP2.jpg
 
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That rattle can job looks great! But don't overlook Maaco! They were running a "bumper special", and the '98 needed one real bad. So I bought one from Sherman and brought it over. Gotta admit it came out real nice and is holding up well. Great paint match and they were good to deal with.
 
That was my experience with Maaco. I have had Maaco do body/paint work on my truck - repaired and repainted the bed sides - and I was happy with the work (and will go back in the future), but they would have been around $500-$600 to paint my top- so I did it myself. BTW, I used Duplicolor perfect match (https://duplicolor.com/product/perfect-match-premium-automotive-paint). My top was gold when I bought it on Craigslist for $600 (and it included a yakima rack and accessories).
 
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