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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Parking brake went out!!! help!

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I was washing my truck, when all of a sudden the parking brake released... scary! I had it in gear luckily, but the pedal goes to the floor now, and the cables underneath the truck are very loose. should I start at the pedal end and go back, or start at the drums and go forward?? someone please help!!



-Chris-
 
Wolcome to the club Charlan,



I have broken two of these cables in 4 years. I need to replace the second one now because it too is loose under the truck cab. I think the cable costs about $40. 00 and the replacement is probably not too much of a bear. Right now leaving truck in reverse after shut-down is working OK, but I will get off my butt pretty soon and replace it.
 
My parking brake went out also. Parked the truck, left it running while I got my stuff out the back seat, shut it down, locked it, walked away and heard the brake "pop". I turned around and watched it roll back into a utility pole. The only real damage was a smashed taillight housing.



My brake mechanism/cable did not actually break - it just let loose. I don't trust it at all anymore - I always leave it in 1st gear when I park it and if I have to leave it running while I get out I have a chock that I put behind the wheel.



I would encourage you to report this to the NTSB via their web site. If enough people report the problem maybe they will force a recall because it could cause an accident.
 
not sure if my parking brake released but my truck rolled out of my driveway hit a utility pole and a tree. $5000. 00 damage. my driveway is on a . 3% cross slope towards the road. it appears as if the thing rolled while it was in gear. there is evidence of three skid marks before it released. e-mailed dodge and they want to talk to me about it.
 
I checked the brake cables, and it appears to be the one coming out of the passenger drum that happened to let loose... I am not sure how I am going to fix this, but it needs to be done. Just wanted to touch base with y'all.



-Chris-
 
Were you the one that changed to the 3500 wheel cylinders a week or so back? If so I would look there first, you may not have everything back in correctly.

Jared
 
Everybody should realize that a diesel engine doesn't provide the same sort of resistance to rolling in gear as a gasser will. My wife and I found that out one day after pushing a truck out of the garage while it was in gear, brake off. I'm not superman and she's not Brunhilda at 112 lbs.
 
Jrobinson..... I did get the 1 ton wheel cylinders, but they are still in the box!! I have not even tackled that chore yet! I am just working on getting my emergency brakes back!!! I cannot shut the engine off everytime I need to get out of the truck... its killing me! Anyways, I looked, and it appears that the cable snapped right at the end, wherever it is hooked onto inside the drum... . Hopefully someone will know what I am talking about. .



-Chris-
 
The cable hooks onto an actuating lever inside the drum. That's where you're going, my friend. If it's as you just described there's no fix outside the wheel other than a nice set of wheel chocks behind the seat.
 
The cable is not that hard to change, when you get the drum off it will all make sense. Sounds to me like a great reason to tear into it and get those 3500 wheel cylinders on :) Just pull both drums and take a picture of each one first so you can make sure every thing goes back in the same place, then do them one at a time so you can look at the other side.

Jared
 
Originally posted by KRS

Everybody should realize that a diesel engine doesn't provide the same sort of resistance to rolling in gear as a gasser will.



That really puzzles me:confused: The diesel has much higher compression than the gasser doesn't it? Seems like it should offer more resistance. Can someone offer a technical explanation for this?
 
"Can someone offer a technical explanation for this?"



I doubt that I could give a concise explanation, but it would have to do with the reason for the need for exhaust braking - valve timing and overlap; backpressure and first water mysteries if I could.
 
Originally posted by KRS

"Can someone offer a technical explanation for this?"



I doubt that I could give a concise explanation, but it would have to do with the reason for the need for exhaust braking - valve timing and overlap; backpressure and first water mysteries if I could.



Then why do I need two 750 cca batteries to start my 359 cubic inch engine and a 360 cubic inch gasser gets away with one? That right there tells me it has more resistance to rolling! 17:1 compression or 8. 5:1 which is going to be harder to push to TDC? uuummm 17:1.
 
I know, yet the engine won't slow us down much going down a hill so we buy pacbrakes and the like.



And we can spin it round and round just using the alternator pulley and belt... .
 
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Then why do I need two 750 cca batteries to start my 359 cubic inch engine and a 360 cubic inch gasser gets away with one?



My guess is that your 360 cubic inch gasser doesn't have heater grids to drive. These babies can draw 180-amps on a cold day which is the reason for the two batteries.
 
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