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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Parts found in oil pan/What are they?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Problem?

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) KDP warranty

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Got the oil pan off and out (with out pulling the transmission) so I could tighten the tone ring back into place. Found in the pan with one of the tone ring screws were two plastic tubes 1 3/16" long, 3/16" in diameter for 7/8" and then necked up to 1/4" diameter. It is hollow with about . 060" hole on the small end and . 125 on the large end. It shaped kind of like an insulated butt splice with one end cut off. I called Cummins to get the torque spec. for the tone ring screws (I'll Lock-tite them also) and asked a mechanic if he knew what they might be. He couldn't think of anything. I asked if they could be cooling nozzels (something I've never seen) but he said those are in the con rod and not plastic. Anyone know what they might be? I'd take a picture and post it but I don't have a camera yet. A new oil pan is ordered (damaged drain plug hole) and should be here Tuesday, so truck will be apart untill the weekend. I guess if no one has an answer by then, I won't worry about it. This truck is a 98. 5 24-vavle and not the one in my sig.

Kim
 
The cooling nozzles are located in the upper main bearing journal, not in the connecting rod. What color are the pieces you found, cooling nozzles I've replaced were orange and some green ones, depending on the batch.
 
i remember reading a thread about a cooling nozzle falling of and burning the piston. the item you described sounds like the cooling nozzle.
 
I dropped my oil pan about a year ago to fix a dent in the pan, and found two pieces of plastic similar to what you are describing. I also believe they are cooling nozzles. I think they were extra ones left in the engine at assemble because if I did not have 6 properly functioning cooling nozzles, I would have melted a piston by now.

Mark
 
They are dark green I guess, almost dark grey. They have what appears to be a "3" in the face of the small end. Looking in the service manual it appears that they could only fall out if the crank and main bearing was out. Is that correct? I don't know the history of this truck prior to about 60,000 miles. It has 106,000 now. What now? In the pan since original assembly? Fell out during a prior repair? Is there anyway to know if they are all in place short of pulling the crank?

Kim
 
Kim



Read the thread I posted above. You can see the existing nozzels on top of the crank with a mirror. A dental one will work.

Good luck

Mike
 
Update. Got time to put the 24-valve back together this morning. I spent some time with a mirror looking for cooling nozzles. Unfortunately they were not "extras". #1 missing, #2 nearly out, I couldn't get where I could see #3 or #4, #5 was in the furthest, and #6 was out maybe 1/2 way. I was able to reach in and push #2 in maybe 1/16". Couldn't move #6 any. I assume #3 or #4 is missing too. Why didn't they step drill the holes so they couldn't come out! Looks like a phoney design to me. Makes me wonder whats in my oil pan. I don't know how any of them would stay in when you're forcing oil through them when its -30*F and the oil is like mollasses!

Got the new oil pan on and everthing back in place and found the plug hole on the new pan is a smaller size. No one in town has a 17mm plug so one is ordered from Cummins. Hooked on to it with the Kubota a drug it outside so I could put the new Mag-Hytec on my truck!

Kim
 
The holes in the upper bearing saddles are "step drilled"

The piston cooling nozzles have an upper lip around them that is supposed to keep them from falling out.



Sounds like they went bad or were broken when they were installed.



Sorry to hear about your troubles.



Justin
 
KWentling



Since no one asked, What was the procedure for getting the oil pan off without removing the trans ?. Inquiring minds want to know.



Dave
 
Dave: Here's what we did. Took the down pipe loose from the turbo, removed the fan, (could remove the fan shroud instead) took the air hose connections off the turbo inlet and the intake manifold, removed the frame bolts for the transmission linkage bracket, and loosened the motor mount bolts. The frame mounts are slotted so you don't need to remove them. Then we rigged a jack with a block of wood under the front of the oil pan and raised it up about 2" measured at the motor mounts. I cut a 2x4 2 1/2" long and wedged it between the motor mount and frame bracket on the passenger side and another 2x4 long enough to block between the front differential and the drivers side motor mount. That let us take the jack out. Then we removed all the pan bolts and dropped it down. That gave us enough room to remove the oil pump suction pipe and let it down into the pan. Then it was just a matter of sliding the pan out the back. I think I could do the whole job again start to finish in less than 2 hours. If anyone is going to do this, I highly recommend you do a through cleaning job of the underside first. The botom of this truck was nasty from the oil pan plug leaking. I blew it off with air and then wire brushed and wiped and blew it off again before we started, and still dirt and stuff would fall every time you bumped something. We put the new oil pan with the suction tube in it in a garbage bag and then fished it back in so we could keep the dirt out of it.

Still don't know if the truck will start. Waiting on the oil plug still.

Cummins was supposed to have ordered it Monday morning and it was to be here today. Called them today and it didn't get ordered. Be here tomarrow but I'm leaving for Nebraska in the morning so it will be next week now. I think the oil plug is 17mm. No one in town has a 17. Got 16s and 18s, but no 17s.

I guess he's going to drive it with missing nozzles until his grandson can get his old 6. 2 Chevy overhauled and then the Dodge is going down the road. The old Chevy is easier for him to get in and out of.

Kim
 
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