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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Passenger Front Brake Locks Intermittantly and ABS Light

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 01 abs controller

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kscheffler

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Had a first this weekend. Stop at a light after a long hill climb and started down hill for a block and smelled hot brakes. Upon inspection the right front brake was locked up on the rotor. After it cooled it worked fine. Parked truck for the weekend and drove home today and noticed that two times when I applied the brake the ABS light flashed for micro second and two different braking attempts. I looked in the service manual and I could only find a discussoin on the rear brake sensor but nothing on the front brake ABS. Must be something to do with the front ABS system. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions with the front brakes locking up? Serviced the front brakes 9 months ago with all new pads and lubed slide pins and clean the brake pad slide plates. This is the first time this has happened but the front right brake was locked up solid got pretty damn hot in only 100 yards before I smelled and stoped. Thanks
 
I had to replace my front calipers because a hanging one while on a trip through the SW in January. I also on advice of this forum replace the front break hose/lines. They also turned the rotors. The pads I had recently replaced the first time a caliper hung a while back were fine. I had just pushed them back and everything was OK for a year plus. Pulled into Yuma and smelled brakes. My bad for not doing it right the first time. Lines are noted to fail internally. ABS light is on because truck is moving and wheel is not??? SNOKING
 
I have read codes with my smarty. P1693, P062 and P0500 no vehicle speed sensor. Could it be the speed sensor causing problems with the ABS?
 
Need to do a thorough inspection again. If pins are still free likely a stuck caliper. This is where fluid changes come into play. When calipers are pushed back in its important to push the old fluid out rather than push it back in. Little things like this can make the difference in the long run.

Are you sure your wheel bearings are in good shape? When a wheel bearing goes it will take the abs sensor out with it.
 
Lubed the pins and the pad slides and cleaned up everything and the wheel spins freely. It must have been a sticky caliper. Will see if the ABS light comes back on. Still not convinced I have seen the last of this problem.
 
Yep, I was 1200 miles from home when the truck spent two nights and three days in the ER room, wished I had fixed it collectly under my terms. Snoking
 
How often should the calipers be replaced Ihave never replaced mine. Replacing them would be easy enough but do I have to have the rotors turned once I replace the calipers? I have very little wear on my rotors my exhaust brake works so well I hardly use my brakes I don't tow often.
 
No they don't look glazed. I had Les Swab take a look at them yesterday and they found no issues; of course. I think your idea of replacing the calipers is probably a good idea. Where is the best place to purchase all 4 calipers and new brake pads? I want OEM brake pads I had the Hawk pads for awhile I did not like them....thanks for the input
 
Got calipers for my truck at napa. Had them on for little over a yr and 10k and they work great and even look nice. Had other calipers from autozone, advance etc that get a surface rust in couple wks time. Also got napa brand pads and been pleased with them. They don't have lifetime replacement like others but I do believe they are superior in quality. I like doing brakes as little as possible whether parts are free or not
 
Had a first this weekend. Stop at a light after a long hill climb and started down hill for a block and smelled hot brakes. Upon inspection the right front brake was locked up on the rotor. After it cooled it worked fine. Parked truck for the weekend and drove home today and noticed that two times when I applied the brake the ABS light flashed for micro second and two different braking attempts. I looked in the service manual and I could only find a discussoin on the rear brake sensor but nothing on the front brake ABS. Must be something to do with the front ABS system. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions with the front brakes locking up? Serviced the front brakes 9 months ago with all new pads and lubed slide pins and clean the brake pad slide plates. This is the first time this has happened but the front right brake was locked up solid got pretty damn hot in only 100 yards before I smelled and stoped. Thanks

How often have you changed the brake fluid? It is not unreasonable for the piston to rust and seize, especially when the caliper is full of old, water-laden fluid (brake fluid *loves* water), and especially when the calipers are old. My R/F caliper seized; the piston was no longer functioning right. Put a new Advance caliper on and it's been fine since. The old caliper had been in service for about 250k miles.

Clean and dry the area around the piston and rubber seal. Then (at least partially) remove the seal. If there's rust inside, the seal failed long ago; replace the caliper.

It is possible that the excessive heat generated from the seized brake caused the ABS sensor to fail or at least fall out of specification; electronics generally don't like excessive heat.
 
I flush the brake system every 3 years so it is not the fluid it looks fine. That is interesting that you went 250k on the front calipers maybe I can go awhile longer. I will take a peak under the seal and determine if I have any rust under the seal.
 
Calipers can be rebuilt cheaply and its an easy task. Given the quality of reman parts I'll likely rebuild mine the next time around. I went through 3 calipers from Napa in a years time before I got a good one. Its aggravating having to replace the same part over and over again.
 
I flush the brake system every 3 years so it is not the fluid it looks fine. That is interesting that you went 250k on the front calipers maybe I can go awhile longer. I will take a peak under the seal and determine if I have any rust under the seal.

Is there a procedure to get ALL of the old brake fluid out of the system. I have about 70k on my 06 mega now and would like to change the brake fluid when the weather warms here in mid-atlantic. TIA
Wayne
 
If you have a vacuum bleeder you can use it starting at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder. I've got a power bleeder and I love it, I've got adapters that fit most any master cylinders. I can bleed a vehicle at all four corners in 10 minutes flat once Ive got it in the air
Or there is the old fashioned way of pumping and cracking the bleeders. You'll need at least a quart to a quart and a half to do a thorough flush.
 
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I think what I might do is purchase new OEM calipers and rebuild my old for spares. Where is the best place to purchase OEM calipers and also the rebuild kits. I am impressed with the life I have gotten out of the OEM so would like to use OEM calipers again. As far as flushing just start at the passenger rear and flush until the new fluid comes out and proceed to the other three wheels. I have been using the MOTUL brake fluid and have not had problems until now.
 
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