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Pastor Bob, anyone, bueller, bueller

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PB, got my IP and turbo today :) I'm going to install them tomorrow morning. There was a red tag on the pump reminding me to pre lube the pump and remove the locked/fixed timing feature after the pump is installed. I think you told me this on the phone also. Where is the locking pin/screw/thingy? As far as pre lubing goes I would think that by the time you have everything primed you would be lubed also... right?



Bruce
 
The prelubing doesn apply to the VE- it's for the P7100.

The lock screw is the 10mm hex nut right close to the outer mounting bolt hole. (toward left fender when installed) Loosen it and slide the horseshoe shaped washer under it. If you dont do this, you will damage the pump beyond repair.



Daniel
 
Lossen and put the horseshoe clip under it only after it is installed on the engine, but before you crank it. if you install it before it is mounted to the engine, you'll lose the timing on the pump and it'll have to go back to the pump shop for a retime.





Disregard this post, I read the whole thread & it sounds like you're aware of the pump timing... ... sorry:(
 
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Ahhh, Thats what he was talking about, I remember now. Never hurts to ask questions. The Piersified H1C is installed... now we move onto the pump.
 
Ok. Everything is almost installed. To fill in some of the blanks here, this is more than a pump and turbo upgrade. I've had overheating issues while pulling hills heavy with this conversion forever. The radiator's in these old chevys (even the big block ones) just won't do the trick when the Cummins starts working. I had gone as big as I could go within the stock location for this truck and still had problems. We just got a 26' toy hauler and loaded it will weigh a bit over 8000lbs. This is about 3000 lbs more than the last trailer (the one that I ran hot with). If I couldn't get the job done before this new trailer was going to kill me for sure. So while Piers and crew worked on the power upgrades I rebuilt the core support to accept a aluminum radiator out of a 2000 6. 5l chevy diesel. I'm told that this radiator will increase my cooling ability by at least 50%. This thing is big! Makes my stock radiator look like a heater core :). So in addition to installing the turbo and IP I also had to modify my charged air pipes and radiator plumbing to work with the new location of the intercooler and radiator. I'm tired. It's 5:30. I think I'm done for the day. Will se, maybe I'll get a second wind tonight. All I have left to do is prime to prime the turbo and prime the injector lines. I'll touch base with ya'll later.



Bruce
 
also...

Just to confirm. After I had the keyed shaft on the pump lined up on the gear and the pump loosely screwed down, I backed out the 10mm timing bolt and installed the horseshoe clip. This was right, right? After the lines were installed loosely I had to rotate the pump to the about the same location as before it was removed. I'm still ok, right?



Bruce
 
OOOOHHHH. You could well have messed up your time, if I understand correctly. You were supposed to have the engine at #1 TDC (true TDC. dont just rely on the pin), tighten up the pump on the bracket, and THEN loosen the locknut. I"ve only had pumps rebuilt (never bench timed in the process) , and just reinstalled them aligning the marks back up where it had been.



Have I missed anything else?



-DP
 
The motor was turned to TDC before I removed the pump. Pump was rebuilt and timed with some built in advance, Paster could verify the amount of advance (I forget). Pump was installed and THEN moved, motor still at TDC. I THINK i'm alright. All things being equal, the only difference between before and after is the built in advance. No?



Bruce
 
Well we must have been right. She's running. Idle is at 750. I'll need to bump this a bit to allow for ac and transmission. You guys that time by ear, what should I be listening for?
 
A deep growl and turbo whine when you romp on the go pedal. Seriously, though, you cant just time them acoustically at idle like you can the old gassers of yesteryear. You'll haev to drive it a tank or two and see how you like the sound, performance, smoke, MPGs, etc.
 
Ohhhhhh I'm gonna jump on that one Daniel... ... :D:D:D



Piers has won more dinners and wobbly-pops with his ear than we can shake a stick at... . hmmmm, that stick looks familiar... . :D



The pump was timed at 1. 55-1. 6mm. (the point was to keep on the safer side of timing so we could tweak a bit if needed. )

You should be fine.

As the timing climbs the engine will begin to sound "harder". Extreme timing can make it sound like a Mercedes on crack... :D

Another sign of timing is the way it shuts off... . instead of doing the "wet dog boogie" it just flat out stops rotating.

You can also raise the idle, by hand, then blip the throttle and release... . the quicker it come down to idle the higher the timing. It does take some time and practice but if you work on your own truck and get familiar with it's sound you can tell when the KSB comes on as well... . just takes a bit of experience.

Anyway, I'd set the pump at it's factory marks for now... if you do that, you are in effect using pump timing as your baseline (1. 55-1. 6mm)



Easy on the turbo for a few days till you get some miles on it... . about 150 miles or so should be good. After that roll into the throttle when you run up the boost. After a week or so, you should be good to work it a bit.

I set the pump up to 20% over rated stock values.

OH... . we can talk about the other things we discussed after you got some miles and time on it... . know what I mean. . :D:D



pastor bob... .
 
My buddy Randy at Reliable diesel is the same way, all by ear. I drove it to work today. It is taking every last ounce of self control not to get into it! I can tell an immediate difference already. Faster spool up, quicker throttle response, better idle quality, turbo cools down quicker. I can't wait to pull. We have a camping trip planned for Memorial Day weekend. Hopefully I'll be done with the fine tuning by then.



Bruce
 
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