PB Blaster and Penetrating oils

[Newf Limo]

I have been spraying the various Nuts and bolts under my truck for days, in prep. for R&R exhaust and shocks. I finally, after great effort, managed to remove the exhaust flange bolts. Upon inspection, it was obvious that the area of the bolt threads that were in contact with the threaded flange... were as dry as a bone. No trace of "penetrating" oil.



Now, the 3/8ths inch of bolt that was protruding through the top of the flange, ok, maybe it helped the rust flake off of that so it would pass through the threaded section more readily, but as far as breaking up the rusty connection within the bolt/nut connection... my opinion, it is a waste of money.



I cranked on those bolts with a short cheater bar, to the point that I could feel my inguinal canals expanding, and that is when I came up with an idea.



I got my tack hammer out of the basement and had my wife use it to tap firmly on the flange while I tried to remove the bolt. It worked like magic! And no hernia!:-laf That trick won't be so practical on the shock bolts, since there isn't room for two people to work, but it certainly did on the exhaust flange.

 

[AHolt]

That is why I own a set of torches, a little

heat and they will come off.

 

[JMarhofke]

I use a product called "Kroil", made by "Kano". Best stuff I have ever used.



Jim

 

[seafish]

X2 on the "Aero Kroil" from Kano labs... beats anything out there hands down, though some people also say that a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF is even better!!!

Never used the acetone/atf, but the cited lab info would seem to prove them correct. You can also "make" only as much as you need... .

 

[DLangford]

I saw a thread on a machinists forum, where they tested the various products in an experiment with rusted fastners. They measured the amount of torque it took to loosen them after applying the solutions.

THe best commercial stuff was the Kroil.

However, a 50:50 acetone/ATF mix was almost as good, and only cost a fraction per ounce compared to Kroil.

When the PB blaster I have is used up I am going to make up a quart of the ATF/acetone.

 

[Newf Limo]

I will have to try that sometime, thanks.

 

[HHhuntitall]

Working on the farm and ranch, I use all kinds of stuff. The best I've found is Kroil Oil. I started using it in the machine world years ago, and of course, with the lathe 15' from where I work on my trucks, the Kroil would end up over there. I've found for exhaust manifold bolts, soaking in Kroil, Mouse Milk, or PB a few days, and then, start removing them with an impact wrench. Set it low or air regulate it, and just start with short bursts, as you don't want to twist the bolt off(I have a good set of ease-outs and drill bits, too, all well used..... ). The impact from the impact wrench will loosen and help break it loose. For one person jobs, it's great, especially on older gas rigs. And if it starts out, gets hard, and quits turning, lube it up, let it sit for a minute, and run it back in a little, if it will go. This helps get some kroil on the inner threads, and allows some of the rust to fall out. The ATF/Acetone mixture, I've never used, but I have a machinist friend that swears by it. He mixes it up in a steel squirt can, and just shakes it good when he needs it. Kroil also works good on ball joints, steering bolts, frame bolts, etc. The only thing I've found even close, is Mouse Milk, and it's just about as good as Kroil. IT's not as readily available as Kroil in my area, though. It's mostly used in Aviation industries, but definitely worth looking into if available in your area.

 

[CDonaldson]

I have used the Kroil for years, never lets me down. Before using it, I always get out the torches and heat stuff up when I know it's going to be a problem to get apart. If you don't have torches, a propane hand held with map gas works good too, heat is good anyway you can get it.







CD

 

[RHestand]

Another trick I've used over the years, along with the Kroil, heat, etc. is, to try alternating directions of rotation. It seems like the back and forth (counter-clockwise, then clockwise) method helps get the rust moving inside the threads better. I've used this trick as a last resort many times, and it seems to work for me. Esp. on bolts that are rusted inside a blind hole.
Ray

 

[wlowe]

Has anybody tried the freeze penetrants like this one? Just wondering how well they work.



Crc Freeze - Off Super Penetrant, Marine, Crc at Sportsman's Guide

 

[Skydiver]

Good points.

Another trick I've used over the years, along with the Kroil, heat, etc. is, to try alternating directions of rotation. It seems like the back and forth (counter-clockwise, then clockwise) method helps get the rust moving inside the threads better. I've used this trick as a last resort many times, and it seems to work for me. Esp. on bolts that are rusted inside a blind hole.
Ray

.
Exactly, the left then right motion allowws the threads to clean and it prevents the bolt from breaking.
I can tell many good stories about PB blaster. You have to allow it to soak in for 5 minutes.
I did have to use the torch 4 years ago on some ford 7000 series tractor seat bolts.

 

[ed9824v]

here I go and get others mad I did not like the cost or how it worked Kroil. I liked PB blaster got me out of some binds. I like best the mix of acetone and ATF and it is cheap. I make it up and put it in a large plastic coke container and then transfer to squeeze bottle when needed. ED

 

[HHhuntitall]

Has anybody tried the freeze penetrants like this one? Just wondering how well they work.



Crc Freeze - Off Super Penetrant, Marine, Crc at Sportsman's Guide

I've never used this product, but I have used liquid nitrogen a few times to get some stuff off..... like padlocks, bearing races, grasshoppers..... Get it good and cold, and clock it with a hammer. That high tensile steel breaks like glass... ...

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Mopar spray rust penetrant works great.

 

[S.Morris]

Equal parts of mineral spirits,acetone,diesel andauto transmission oil is unbeatable. used it for years.

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Funny part is would be that Joe is right. the makers of Mostly Old Parts And Rust penetrant lube know from experience LOL





I find that good ol light heat on the nut and a squirt helps draw in the lube to do its job.

 

[JCyrbok]

actually never had a bolt not give in to PB Blaster. Just this last week sprayed down some suspension bolts and when I removed them they were "wet" all the way to the bottom of the threaded area.



I have found that on really stuborn bolts that if you tighten them very slightly and then try to remove them, that helps too.



My grandpa used to use parafin wax too. He would heat a bolt and then put the wax on it and it would melt and get drawn into the threads as it cooled, kind of like sweating a plumbing joint in copper.



J-

 

[BullyDogJason]

Ive always had luck with heat if the sprays didnt work