"Perform Service" - 2012

[RUSSELL5000]

I am just shy of 61K on 2012. Let me start off by saying I have thoroughly enjoyed this truck, and the only issues I have had have been caused by my persistent evil enemy: rust due to the mountains of salt used in the winter here.

I pretty much only use the truck for a pure pleasure drive (taking my dogs out to the woods to hike on Sunday afternoon) or pulling my travel trailer, etc., on a trip. For example, I put my Jeep Patriot on a U-Haul tandem axle trailer and took it up to my son in North Dakota in August.

To be clear, I am not a gearhead. However, I prefer to do my own maintenance. My wife could provide a comprehensive explanation of why.

My model year needs the CCV filter change AND the egr cleaning. Got my kit from Geno's, read the instructions, and watched several youtube video. The instructions in the Geno's kit said it would be "cumbersome" but doable. I figured, no problem, I have the garage for at least a month before snow comes. Lots of time. How hard could it be? Besides, what could go wrong?

(1) Replaced CCV filter - easy peasy. Couple rags stopping up holes, waiting to close everything up. Filter did look dirty.

(2) Took butterfly egr value off. Taking off no problem. Sat the iron housing component and motor on the bench and prepared to take out the four philips screws holding the motor. Three of the four screws quite rusted (what a shock!!!). Could not budge - worried I'll tear up. Soaking the iron housing in cleaner and the four screws with PB Blaster.

(3) Taking the air snorkel off, noted that the clamp holding the snorkel to the turbo inlet was broken. Nice. There was still a "seal" between the air snorkel and the turbo inlet - looks nice and clean. Assume I'll have to get that clamp from the dealer. Please advise if you know of a better source for that clamp.

(4) Took the crossover pipe off. Is it OK to fill that pipe with cleaner and soak it? There is a sensor - do not know if soaking in cleaner will bother it.

(5) Was removing the two 10mm bolts and two 10 mm nuts holding the iron housing to the EGR servo control valve butterfly. Sprayed all with PB Blaster before trying to remove. Two bolts came no problem; one nut came no problem. The shoulders of the inside nut basically disintegrated when I tried to remove. Thought the nut broke free but the shoulders simply rounded off into metal powder. As always happens, in a location that is not easy to get at. At that point I decided my first session was at an end, sprayed with more PB Blaster, and sought out my dogs and a beer. My dogs have never solved anything, but they are good listeners. At any rate, I am open to suggestions on getting that remaining nut off (I have already ruled out stick of dynamite, hand grenade, sledge hammer, etc.)

More to come...

 

[JR]

Do you have easy out sockets Russell? If you can get a standard socket on the nut you can get an easy out socket on. A good set will grab a perfectly rounded off nut.

As to the phillips maybe an impact driver would help? Something like this. They work miracles sometimes.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...6CddRwgyi01VyOTcuCZ9xe2gRvvCXgRoCxtQQAvD_BwE#
Youtube how to use them if unsure.


Hope all is well with you! My dog is my next best helper after my boy. But I'm pretty sure my dog is more dedicated

This was just this morning. Possum was still alive and well....when things play dead they don't get hurt

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Wow - smart possum.

One problem with that nut is that it is on a stud - making me use a deep well socket. I don't have a set of easy out sockets but I am always open to the purchase of a tool.

That Lisle hand impact driver looks promising - with a long bit it may do the job. I have keep the penetrating oil on those screws so I hope they move.

All is well with me, JR - thanks. Have had some battles health wise - my guts are good but the skeleton is breaking down on me some. Working at it with goal of keeping doing stuff.

Thanks much!

 

[JR]

Just a thought, there are easy out sockets with a 6 point hex on the end, this allows you to use a wrench and allow the stud to pass through the socket (if the stud is small enough to)

Something like this for example.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-...avV3StwMla0sD2LqlTyfcayhXZCB30TRoCQMwQAvD_BwE

Good luck Russell!

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Thanks. I have the manual hand impact screwdriver coming, and was searching for the deep easy out socket. I went ahead and did some more on getting the EGR cooler off last night - other bolts and nuts coming loose no problem. Could just be a substandard quality nut; I assume same with the clamp that was broken.

I have been riding my bicycle fairly consistently, often doing the Western Reserve Greenway trail through Ashtabula and Trumbull counties. There is a mexican restaurant in Orwell right off the trail that has a little outdoor courtyard - great for some chow and cold beer after a ride. Weather is turning colder so that may be over for this year.

 

[JR]

Where do you usually park to ride the trail?

There is a nice little campground right on the trail up towards Ashtabula, Hide A Way Lakes. We used to run up there with the camper for a short weekend when the kids were younger and ride the trail. It's a pretty nice path. They started work on the final connector to the lake. I haven't heard a completion date but I do know they were working on it over the summer.

They are supposedly doing another "rails to trails" coming out of Andover to Jefferson. The trail runs within 1/4 mile of my house. I've got mixed feelings on that one, we use it to get around on the wheelers quite a bit. If you go south of Andover the trail runs all the way to Jamestown PA. Trail construction was supposed to start this spring but it never materialized and the website has been very quiet on updates. We've lost alot of ATV trails in this county over the last 10 years or so and there was a lot of pushback on this proposed bike trail from local riders...more to come I suppose.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

So, obtained three tools: (1) set of extractor sockets, (2) set if crow-foot wrenches, and (3) hand-impact screwdriver. Thanks to JR for the suggestions.

The extractor socket allowed me to get the rounded 10 mm holding the iron housing to the EGR servo control valve butterfly off. The crow foot wrench allowed me to easily remove the iron housing from the exhaust manifold. Continued on following the steps in the Geno's kit. The two 15mm nuts at the very back were not that hard to get to: ratchet with swivel head, shortest extension I could find, deep well socket. You have to shove your hands back in there and be really patient when taking the nuts off, but doable. So, all of the EGR and associated components are now soaking in cleaner.

The next job is the removal of the small electric motor from the iron housing of the EGR valve. Hope that the hand-impact tool allows me to get the screws out rather than twisting the heads off.

Question: does anyone know of a website that is best for OEM parts?

Thanks!

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Got the four screws holding the small electric motor tp the egr butterfly valve off tonight. The hand impact tool with a long bit worked nicely on three of the four screws; one screw would have come with a screwdriver, was not rusted. Worked on the fourth screw with the hand impact tool for half an hour, eventually just wore a hole in the middle of the screw; would not turn. I remembered that I had a vice-grip pliers with a long skinny snout, kind of like needle nose pliers for electrical work. Was able to grab hold and break the screw loose - after repeated attempts. Took another half hour on that screw because could only turn the screw the tiniest little bit.

Obviously, I would starve to death as a mechanic.

Anyhow, everything is apart and soaking in cleaner.

 

[JR]

Excellent!

There are a couple of places you can order OEM parts online. This is one of the sites I've used more than others, they have competitive pricing and shipping. Definitely alot cheaper than my local dealer.

"EGR System for 2012 Ram 2500 | OEM MOPAR Parts" https://www.oemmopar.parts/v-2012-ram-2500--slt--6-7l-l6-diesel/emission-controls--egr-system

 

[RUSSELL5000]

I ordered new threaded studs as well as the o-rings for the coolant tubes yesterday. Also ordered high-grade stainless steel nuts and conical lock washers to replace the 15MM and 10MM nuts (I recommend McMaster Carr - gigantic selection of wide quality range and awesome service).

Yesterday evening was scrub-a-dub-dub. Got all of the egr flow path other than the egr cooler itself spic-n-span. I was flushing the egr cooler with hot water and the outflow water just would not become completely clear. So, filled it up with cleaner for another good soak.

Some questions:

(1) The instructions with the Geno's kit has not torque specifications. I don't recall any mention in youtube videos. Anybody know a source of torque specifications for reassembly?

(2) The Geno's kit includes a rectangular gasket that appears to me to be used where the curved horn which blends the exhaust gas and air from the intercooler meets the engine (I imagine none of these terms is correct). The Geno's kit instructions and youtibe videos say nothing about remove/reinstall. What is that gasket for?

The egr flow path was really coated with soot. I understand the def/scr trucks use far less egr than earlier model years like mine, but it seems to me that a cleaning could be beneficial.

Thanks!

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Following the send soaking and after flushing for a long time, the water coming out of the egr cooler was finally clear. Began reassembly last week but stalled a little waiting for parts. Parts showed up Friday (o-rings, bolts, and clamps for the air intake).

Spent weekend at my mother-in-laws helping get her yard ready for winter, so nop truck work. Expect to complete reassembly this week.