Pickup Tiedowns

[TowPro]

Ok, I been using the ears type tie downs on my 98 with my 9'-2000 lb camper.



I really don't like the "looks" of the ears and was thinking of doing it different.



What do you guys think about this setup



its within my price range.

 

[dewdo]

IHMO I would not use any system that tied the camper to the bed or bumper of the truck. Not very safe. Go for a frame tie down system such as the Tork Lift system or similar frame type system. . I think Happi Jac has quit making the system that ties the camper to the bed of the truck and the rear bumper. They now advertise a frame mount system. Also most RV welding shops can make a custom one that works just as well. Just be sure to use the spring loaded turnbuckles on the front and the smaller turnbuckles on the rear.



Dewdo in the other Washington

 

[D. Showan]

Thats the kind of belly bar I use and it works fine. With my runnuing boards you can't even see it with the extensions out. Like Dewdo said, use spring loaded turnbuckles in the front. In the back I have heavy square tubing that slides into the ends of the hitch to attach non spring loaded turnbuckes.

 

[TowPro]

For the rear, did you drill the hitch so you could put pins in to stop the extensions from moving? Do you use one long peice through the hitch or 2 shorter ones?



I guess I could use 1 long piece, and drill it on both sides of the hitch for pins, so it would not slide. I think I even got the correct stock behind the shed.



Sounds like the setup I will go with. I noticed the Ears on the old truck would bend back around 1/8" until the ears hit the bed. Plus they looked like hell sticking out when the camper is off.



Thanks

Originally posted by D. Showan

Thats the kind of belly bar I use and it works fine. With my runnuing boards you can't even see it with the extensions out. Like Dewdo said, use spring loaded turnbuckles in the front. In the back I have heavy square tubing that slides into the ends of the hitch to attach non spring loaded turnbuckes.

 

[Reddog1]

TowPro - Two separate pieces of tubing work just fine.



I made my own frame mounts for the front.



Just about any 2 inch tubing (1/8 wall thickness or better) will work.



Most people don't realize that there is nowhere near as much pressure involved as there is on a hitch.



Take a look at where the turnbuckles attach to the camper.



Wayne

 

[D. Showan]

I use two shorter pieces on the rear . They are a snug fit so running all the way through would be a real pain. Just drill the hitch, drill and tap the tubing and add the eyelets on the outer end and your set to go. Very sturdy, inexpensive and doesn't stick out too much with the camper off.

 

[TowPro]

Sounds good on the rear. I may even build the front ones, but at $150. 00, its pretty close to what it would cost me if I added in time (which is getting pretty scarce these days)



These "store bought" front setup's, does the center bar come out when your not towing, or do just the sides come out, and the center stays in?



Has anybody bent the frame brackets by hitting something under the truck? I don't go off road.

 

[R D Brown]

My vote is for the Tork Lift System. I also made tube mounts that slip into the side of the trailer hitch for the rear. I wouldn't tie anything to the beer can boxes we have hanging on the back of a very nice engne.

 

[D. Showan]

What's the best price around on the torque lift system? I don't see why it would be worth the extra money over a belly bar. The belly bars are strong and with the outer extensions out (loosen one screw) my running boards hide the rest of the bar fine. I don't go off road much either so I'm sure it won't get damaged.



I'm willing to be convinced otherwise though.

 

[roadranger]

Originally posted by TowPro Has anybody bent the frame brackets by hitting something under the truck? I don't go off road.

In the two years of camping with my slide in, and noticing these kind of things, I've seen 2 belly-bar and 1 torque lift setup that got seriously bent up by hitting something alongside the road.

One was a rock hit 4 wheeling, the other two were in NFS campgrounds with tight manuvering and hitting stumps/logs lining the roadway.



I'll keep my HappiJac's, thanks.

Dodge has some pretty rugged bracing behind the rear bumper that stiffens it up, and the HappiJac front crossbar works well to stiffen things up.

 

[Reddog1]

I built my own tie downs.



I used the existing side of the trailer hitch for the rear.



I used tubing that would recieve 2 inch tubing for the fronts. Weld a piece of 1 1/2" x 1/8" x 8" angle to each side of the reciever. Use four 5/16 bolts to bolt it to the frame.



Why use a cross bar? If the skimpy bolts in the camper bend my frame, I guess it is so cheap I might as well buy a Phord.



My front tie downs are strong enough to use a floor jack on them.





Wayne

 

[dewdo]

Last summer I was pulling out of a campground and the post with the camp site number on it was overgrown with weeds. As I pulled out I turned too sharp and hit the post which was about a foot in diameter. It knocked a hole in my fender and bent the front bar on my Tork Lift tie down. $1,500 to replace the fender and $65. 00 for a new Tork Lift bracket. The bracket was nearly ripped off the frame. With the Stable Lift, I guess I will have to be real carefully in tight spots. I don't think I could replace the pipe system for $65. 00.



Dewdo in the other Washington