Pics and instructions for drill jig

[CPFF]

The Drill Jig To Neutralize The Killer Dowel

This is the way I did it. If you find a better way to use it, let us know.

Loosen the fan (1 7/16” wrench, L. H. THD) and remove the radiator overflow bottle. If you can get the fan out past the shroud, do it now. It will save you time. If not, continue with the following: Release the windshield washer bottle on the driver’s side. Unbolt the radiator shroud. Push the top of the shroud towards the motor and pull the fan out between that and the radiator. Move the shroud from side to side to sneak the protruding ears past the radiator hoses. To help with this, bend the top center of the shroud toward the motor-this makes the shroud a little narrower.

Now remove the serpentine belt. Remove the two bolts that hold the alternator on. The bottom rear nut is 15mm, the front bolt is 13mm. Without disconnecting any of the wires, set the alternator up on the rubber intake hose. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the fan pulley on and then the 4 that hold the fan mount to the block.

Put a shop towel over the top of the bottom pulley, then clean the area to the right of where the fan mount was located. (That’s the area where you are going to be drilling. )
Remove the 2 bolts from the front cover, put the drill jig on and replace the bolts. Go underneath the truck and hook the regulator to the breather hose. Set the regulator to a maximum of 2 lbs.

Using a low-powered drill-such as a cordless-put the smaller of the two bushings in the jig and drill through the casting with the drill provided. The aluminum casting where you are going to be drilling is approximately ½” thick. The stop on the drill is set at 1”. (When you go through the aluminum, if the drill does not go freely to the stop, then you MUST remove the cover because your dowel is already part way out. With the cover off you can drive the dowel back into the block and then continue with c-sinking and tapping. ) Once you have this hole through you can increase the flow on the regulator several more pounds to help clear the chips.

Alternative Methods


1. If you do not have a pressure regulator, but have an air supply, you can do the following: Get a long piece of rope (clothes line), wrap a paper towel around one end and with a screwdriver force it into the breather pipe. Tie the other end to your steering wheel. Remove your oil filler cap, wrap a shop towel around the end of your air nozzle and hold it against the filler hole. Blow only enough air into the motor to equal about two pounds pressure. (Keep the shop towel loose enough so you will not create a dangerous amount of pressure if you get carried away. )


2. If you do not have any air supply, you can do it this way. Drill only a ¼” to 3/8” deep in the casting. C-sink the partially drilled hole. Fill the drill with light grease and drill the hole the rest of the way through. Clean the hole out, fill the tap with grease and tap the hole. If you have a way to rotate the motor by hand, (by turning the balancer, etc. ) do it between drilling and tapping so any chips that do fall on the gears inside are not all in one spot. A few stray chips spread out inside will not hurt anything. ,


Pictures of the Drill Jig

 

[vc]

John,

Great instructions. I have them printed and ready for use.
I sent you a couple emails.
Thanks again for helping us rid ourselves of this little beast.
vc

------------------
'97 Ram,auto,3. 54 lim-slip,4x4,smoothie,BD(TST)#8 fuel plate-slid forward,Prime-Loc,VDO Vision pyro/boost,HiddenHitch class V Magnum.

 

[illflem]

Just finished installing two anti-killer dowel pin bolts, three hours for both, this includes 1/2 hour looking for the 15 mm wrench that fell in-between the radiator and inner cooler, cover this area. I saw no reason to remove the fan shroud, washer & coolant bottles, so I didn't, it was no problem. If you remove the alternator before the pulley and fan mount it is easier to get your hands in. My air pressure regulator had a piece of 3/8 id hose on it, a perfect fit on the dipstick tube rather than climbing underneath to the blowby, just pushed it on. No need to worry about over pressure because the excess air comes out the blowby tube, I think only a couple of chips may have fell in when the drill popped through all the rest blew out, I can live with that. Three more trucks tomorrow, easy one's, short 2wds, maybe more on Sat. then the jig is off to the NW Bombers or Colorado, still working out details.

I rate this job as on the same par as installing a pyro with removing the turbo, it's a piece of cake thanks to John's(CPFF) excellent work on making the jig, he did all the hard part. The jig is truly a work of art and I can appreciate the time John spent on it for all of us. If ever we have a TDR hall of fame John is my first vote!!! #ad
- Bill

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 05-10-2001). ]

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Great instructions Guys. It sounds like a simple fix now.

I can pull the viscous clutch & engine fan out as an assembly without removing the shroud. As long is the cooling system is not pressurized the top radiator hose can be pushed towards the engine to clear the big hex nut. Bring the fan & clutch up on the left side of the radiator (standing in front of the truck). Push the top radiator hose back out of the way towards the engine using a big screwdriver, small prybar or your thumb. Then gently pull the assembly up thru the opening . The big hex nut will rub the top radiator hose, but there's enough room to clear it.

The trucks that have had the fans on since new may be tough to get off. See this thread for tips: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum1/HTML/003078.html



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 05-10-2001). ]

 

['956Wheel]

CPFF, You remove the fan, shroud and alternator..... You have done the worst of the job of getting the cover off, not to be critical, why not just do it right? I pulled mine apart, loctited the bolts, checked the pin, fender washer is over it using the bolt just to the right of the pin, loctited, and replaced the front main seal in a couple hours. The alternator stays and the fan shaft bearing mount gets removed. A 36mm Snap-On fan wrench would have cut time off by 1/2 hour. Under 40 bucks.

Mike

------------------
9535hundred

**Harmonic balancer is very easy to pull.

[This message has been edited by Statland (edited 05-10-2001). ]

 

[illflem]

Forgot to mention that not only does the shroud not have to come off when using the jig method,but if you move the fan downward it is also out of the way, no need to remove it totally. Mine were easy so I just pulled them out the top, shroud intact.

We've had K&N vs. paper, syn vs. dyno oil, jig or not to jig. I vote for the jig because of the fact that it is such an easy job and may not even be necessary for the majority of our trucks. I usually go for the cheapest insurance company though too.



[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 05-10-2001). ]

 

['956Wheel]

Bill, You probably are as right as I am depending on which way the wind is blowing, personal preference, and as Big Dave at work says... ..... "what do you think of Uranus as a (W)hole".

The bottom line is to end worry, my pin was bottomed out in the bore, now I got peace of mind. We do not even know how many Cummins have broke due to the pin. It seems to me that one motor breaks and the story multiplies.

Mike

------------------
9535hundred

 

[CPFF]

Statland - On my ride the Horton fan and shroud must come out together as one unit. I assumed the Dodge was similar. As I read some of the posts, I read that the fan could be removed without removing the shroud, so I changed the first line of the instructions.

The Drill Jig - I tried to design it to be simple to use so the "Back Yard Wrench" would not be afraid to use it. Taking the cover off,making the washer/tab,getting the seal in correctly, I felt would be more than a lot of them would be willing to do.

The # of deaths by the dowel - It appears that the only "awareness" of this is on this great forum,which I believe is only a small number compared to all the other D/C drivers out there that never read this. Just in the few small towns around me,I have found three people this has happened to in the last year alone. How many others out there had theirs' repaired in a small repair shop, out of warranty, said nothing because they thought it was just their bad luck? CPFF

 

['956Wheel]

CPFF, Are the pin failures that you write about first hand info,. so many people out there give the same single incident "multiple lives".

On the "back yard wrenches" you are probably correct on that one. You, as a toolmaker, more than likely have it, mechanical know how, in your blood. As a machinist of 25+ years, led in my youth by Dad who was a mechanical engineer, most definatly have mechanical smarts deeply ingrained. Grandpa was a metal worker of sorts. I got a kick out of reading about the ISKY cam makers, turns the great Grandfather was a blacksmith! Horses did not take cams, my point is tradesman (skilled) wind up passing it on!
Mike

------------------
9535hundred

 

[CPFF]

Statland - No,three diff. towns & another state. One guy was picking up parts I made for his "HOG", he said his brother towed his down to Ted J. six months ago when his was killed.

 

[illflem]

After using the jig fix on 5 trucks with no problems finally hit a snag on the sixth(a '97 w/62k) today, the dowel pin was on it's way out, drill wouldn't go all the way in. After pulling the front cover found the pin was only in it's hole about 1/8", pulled out easily with a pair of pliers. Even though my friend's truck is dissembled for the weekend waiting for seals on Monday he is very happy, I doubt that the pin would have stayed in more than a few thousand more miles. At least I got to see first hand how the new safety bolt does it's job as we continued with the fix, the first 5 trucks were blind faith. I'm even happier now that that I performed the fix on my trucks after seeing a pin ready to fail. I have gotten pretty good at the fix now, under 45 minutes unless you drop a tool or bolt and have to search. I'm done with the jig, it is on it's way to the NW Bombers next with Alaskdave, whoever needs it in the Seattle area should contact Dave.



[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 05-12-2001). ]

 

[Leon R]

Illflem, If you have plans on getting the jig back let me know as I would like to come down and have mine done. I am only a couple of hours away.

------------------
94 2500reg cab 4X4,auto tc/vb 99 26ft Travelaire pull type

 

[illflem]

Leon, check your email. Isn't there something like, seventh is a charm?

 

[Jeff H]

This drill jig. In the picture 7 of 7 is that all the stuff being sent around with the jig? Because I don't have any of that stuff.
What does a c-sink do?

 

[rustnrot]

A question that I have not seen answered; perhaps I missed it. Illflem, I noticed you pulled the dowel pin out easily. Gang, can the pin be left out. I. e. I assume it is just for alignment during assembly and has no use once the engine is assembled??

 

['956Wheel]

Rust, A location pin is most often in the design to hold location in the event of "slight" loosening of the mounting hardware. When bearings and such are dependant on precision positioning, dowels will be used to do so.

Jeff, A c-sink is a countersink, used to cut the angle (82 degrees) to fit the screw head. Other angles are made but the "garden variety" ones are 82 degrees.

Mike

------------------
9535hundred

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

Has anyone verified yet whether the jig will work on 24v trucks or not? I searched through all the different threads on it and couldn't find it. Thanks in advance!



------------------
-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax3, 275hp RV injectors, Joe Donnelly modifed Sachs Clutch, SS ladder bars, SW fuel pressure gauge, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's, (all the common stuff clipped)

 

[dustoff]

Of all the vehicles i have owned in my life i think this is the most disgusting example of how a manufacturer could care less about the customer and satisfaction of that customer. this dowel pin fiasco is obviously a design flaw that can cause the unsuspecting owner thousands of $$ for repairs. If it were a five dollar fix i guess d/c might entertain (on second thought probably not) standing behind their product, but as it is with major $$ involved to make the corrections, d/c has decided again to ignore its presence and play dumb. well what goes around comes around and the day will come that d/c looks around and wonders why they are sucking hind tit and going out of business. has anyone explored the option of a class action suit against d/c?? i hate it for the thousands of owners who are not part of this great organization and know absolutely nothing about the possible time bomb they are driving... sorry for the venting... i need to get on the list also for the jig sharing program, but want to see if i can get some of the local diesel heads to make the correction at the same time for i am not the most mechanically gifted individual... thanks...

------------------
'94 2500 4x4 3:54 auto prime-loc tst #6/230 DiPricol egt/boost, cat amputated

 

[TSielski]

Just like to express my thanks for this topic, and for all the time and brain sweat of those who found a "cure" for this obvious manufacturing defect. Chose to pull my cover this weekend and found my dowel pin was on the move! Could not pull it out, so drove it back home, and applied the washer/tab fix. Agree that DC and Cummins should jointly admit this problem exists and do the right thing, but unfortunately the FAA will be tracking pigs on radar first.

------------------
95 2500 4x4 former auto, now 5-speed with too many mods to list.

 

['956Wheel]

Dustoff, I agree with you 110%, but when you consider the Firestone trouble, the Ford exploding gas tank, GM had a safety belt issue that would cost under a BUCK to fix! These are all life or death issues and those companies made a choice to turn their backs... economics my A$$, when a suit is won and the families of the deceased get a big settlement it does not seem to phase the builders of deadly goods. Yet if you built "widgets" in your garage and sold them for . 50 and someone dropped it on their head they would own your house in a heartbeat, you would be ruined for life! Lots of incentive to being a productive, innovative person! I FEEL BETTER.

------------------
9535hundred