Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) pictures of broken input shaft

[NBowlin]

for those that are interested or to those that helped out on here. i put pictures of what happened to my transmission in my reader's rig alblum. they wouldnt fit on here.



the input shaft broke when i was shifting from 2nd to 3rd playing around with the three day old usb1 on the truck. now i finally get to adjust the wastegate on the thing past 40#'s i cant wait to see what she is going to do. the suspence has been horrible.

anyways thanks to all that helped me out getting this figured out.

 

[bmoeller]

You can use regulated shop air to set the wastegate. Get a regulator with a pressure gauge. No need to run the engine.

 

[NBowlin]

i missed driving it all together and never got to fully experience the new turbo is what i was sayin. thank you for the tip though it will be very helpful it was just bad timing is all, but i am glad it broke on the base not off somewhere.

 

[LJHagen]

shop regulator to adjust wastegate?

Originally posted by bmoeller

You can use regulated shop air to set the wastegate. Get a regulator with a pressure gauge. No need to run the engine.

That sounds like a cool idea! Did you attach the regulator directly behind the afc housing? Without pressure, how can you tell how many psi the regulator is set at? (I can't imagine you're spooling up the turbo somehow to read the gauge)... Got any pic's of the installation?

 

[Andy Redmond]

No, remove the rubber line from the elbow on the compressor side of the turbo then tee into your regulator here and hear it cycle.



If you have the steel line that come from the turbo across the cyl. head and tee's at the back of the afc housing, then send the air thru the piping to the wastegate.



I often retrofit the second gen steel line to the first gen trucks where a waste-gated housing is installed.



Don't panic if your max boost on the gauge is 36-38psi etc. sometimes a several psi drop from the turbo to manifold is normal, much more than that and you have a boost leak/piping leak/innercooler leak/air horn/intake manifold leak somewhere.



Good luck

Andy

 

[T. Baker]

Wow! It looks like you broke the main shaft not the input shaft! I am not looking at it correctly? I'v never heard of anyone breaking the main shaft. Usually they break where the clutch disk sits on the splines right? So how much abuse did that take? What clutch do you have?

I have ripped the center out of one clutch and I felt really lucky I didn't break my puny little 1 1/8" 10 spline input shaft. I put a milder clutch in so it will slip instead of breaking the input shaft - at least I am hoping. It still doesn't slip easily.

 

[NBowlin]

it was the main shaft. it took some doin. it fought the good fight for a good amount of time the clutch is a 550hp ceramic w/ 12k miles on it. it did that at 35#s of boost on the new usb1 turbo shifting 2 to 3. now that i have it back together with an extreme duty one from standard transmission i have had the chance to tinker with the turbo and now i can peg my 50# gauge pretty easy. the clutch isnt liking it at all. i can slip it pretty much at will when its rolling. i have to stop eating or something so i can get a twin disc in the truck. lazer cuts and water methanol are next in line, so further and further down the slippery road i go!!



i am stuck between the haisley street puller and the eep, unless southbend has something that will hold up. i should be in the low 500s or so rear wheel, and what ever the l/c dvs and the water meth is going to add ontop of that drag racing and occasional future sled pull.



so ah anyone want to sponsor a young guy in iceland?

uncle same doesnt give me a big enough alowance. i just picked up the next paygrade, but it isnt gonna help. the truck gets a lot of attention from people here. the pumped up dodge must be kinda a new thing over here. i can hardly wait to race it and see what kind of reaction i am going to get.