pinion / yoke seal - need help locating

[WOT]

I had a small leak I thought I would take care of today. Picked up a new pinion seal and proceeded to take it apart. After getting into it I see there's really 2 seals. A pinion seal and a seal that's on the yoke. Well, the one on the yoke had a groove in it so I thought I'd pull it and go get another one. To my surprise, dealer doesn't sell it and no local part stores could find it either. Dodge says i need to buy a whole yoke at $160 to get the seal (already on it). I guess they decided to sell only the assembly. What a load of BS... anyway, i need to find just the seal.



He's a pic...

I've googled the part # on the seal (26060975) and found at least one place that sells it but I don't know anything about them. Can anyone recommend another place to get it?

http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/p-4186-26060975-pinion-flange-sleeve-seal-gm-86-aam-925. aspx

 

[RBellah]

Is this for the front? The link you posted is for a 9. 25 which is for the front.

 

[RBellah]

When you go back together and add your gear lube make sure you do not over fill. There are a lot of leaks caused by filling it up to the hole and letting it run out which is overfull. Per TDR prior posts it should be about 1/2 inch below the oil fill hole on the cover.

 

[WOT]

correct, it is the front.
my plan was to have it finished today and I was aware of the below the hole thing. Unfortunately now I have to wait until Monday to order a new seal. at least I don't need to have it driveable right away.

I have a shop manual for an '05 but I assume the torque spec for the pinion nut is the same. can anyone confirm?

 

[rscurtis]

There is no "torque spec. " per se for the pinion nut. It is tightened until a certain rotational torque is achieved to rotate the pinion. What you should have done is marked your original nut and the face of the pinion, and returned the nut to the same location with blue loctite. That's not a recommended procedure in the shop manual, but if it's good enough for Joe Donnelly, it's good enough for me. What you don't want to do is over-tighten a new nut and put too much preload on the bearings. That will require disassembling the axle to replace the collapsible spacer.



If it were my truck, at this point I would use a new nut and bring it to 150-200 ft. lbs, which will make sure it's tight but is not enough to collapse the spacer any further.

 

[WOT]

Yeah, I should have thought about that. I did mark the shaft ends but somehow forgot to mark the nut. Perhaps I should have consulted the manual first . I'll look at it tomorrow but I think it did have a blue line of paint on it so maybe I'll get lucky. Either way, I'm good with the 150-200 ft. lbs method.
Thumbing through the manual I don't see any mention of using a new nut - is that required or just a belt and suspenders thing? I had planned on some blue loctite and calling it good.

Thanks for the help!

 

[sag2]

ALWAYS use a new nut.

From service info.
1. Install new pinion seal with Installer 8882 (2) and Handle C-4171 (1).
2. Apply a light coat of teflon thread sealant, to pinion flange splines.




3. Install flange on the pinion shaft with the reference marks aligned.
4. Lightly tap pinion flange onto the pinion, until a few threads are showing.
5. Install flange washer and new pinion nut.
6. Hold flange (1) with Flange Wrench 8979 (2) and tighten pinion nut until pinion end play is taken up.




7. Rotate pinion flange (1) several times to seat bearings.
8. Measure pinion torque to rotate (1) with an inch pound torque wrench (2). Pinion torque to rotate should be equal to recorded reading plus an additional 0. 40-0. 57 N·m (3-5 in. lbs. ).
9. If torque to rotating is low, tighten the pinion nut in 6. 8 N·m (5 ft. lbs. ) increments until pinion torque to rotate is achieved.
10. Rotate pinion several times then verify pinion torque to rotate again.
11. Install axle shafts and hub bearings.
12. Install propeller shaft with reference marks aligned.