Placement of Brake Controller in 2012 2500

[RUSSELL5000]

Just an update. Installed the MaxBrake controller last night. I have a 2012 2500 crew cab, automatic, ST trim level.



We used a small bracket from something else that had a ninety degree bend in it to mount the hydraulic pressure sensor on; the bracket is mounted with one of the bolt/nuts that secure the brake master cylinder to its bracket. The "tee" fitting that came with the kit would only work on the back port of the master cylinder - would not fit the front port. Three tee fitting came with the kit - I am to send the two I did not use back - but it caused a momemnt of consternation when none of the three tee fitting worked on the front port of the master cylinder. Took some patience to bend the new brake line to curl around and meet the sensor. I used a piece of shrink wrap over the whole sensor plug to keep moisture out of the plug in the future.



The instructions don't explain this, but it made perfect sense when it was explained to me: the brake master cylinder is at the highest point of the braking system so air will not go down in the lines when one line is removed from the master cylinder. There is a check valve that keeps fluid from flowing out/air flowing in to the master cylinder with a line unhooked. So, it really is OK to bleed only at the top of the system. We were really cautious and bled at the master cylinder entry, the new tee fitting, and also at the pressure sensor fitting. That was probably more than necessary, but I think it is better to be safe than sorry with brake issues.



There is a nice rubber boot to feed the sensor cable through and into the cab right above the parking brake pedal - a small slice with a razor knife and a little rubber cement to seal afterward took care of that.



The sensor cable was easy to snake under the dash and out a little rectangular opening already in the middle of the console area - right under the temperatire controls. The wiring bundle required a little more patience as the rectangular opening was almost the same size as the plug. Used a number of zip ties to locate the wire runs way up under the dash so there will be no chance of falling down into the pedal area and causing a problem.



The dash plastic in the middle has a nice slant to it that allowed for mounting the controller right in the middle at a neat angle - really easy to read the screen and really easy to reach.



Read the manual and did the calibration; it won't be tested for real until the drive to the TDR CMEP gathering next week.



I think the kit for the installation of the MaxBrake controller could be better: it could come with a mounting bracket, bent hydraulic line, proper tee fitting, etc. , as well as suggested cable routings for the truck you have. This would save installation time. I know nothing about what this would mean to the vendor - just that the product installation would be much improved if it worked that way. If you are going to get the MaxBrake then plan to spend some time on figuring out the mounting bracket for the pressure sensor, sorting out the tee fitting, bending the hydraulic line, routing cables, etc.



I note that some said the controller itself was not visually appealing - beauty is in the eye of the beholder - I think it looks good sitting there.

 

[Cummins12V98]

My fitting fit the front brake line port. I probably had an advantage on that note because Dutch and Di were right there and we picked the one that fit. I put a nice gradual bend in the brake line with the sensor on the end and zip tide it down. Looks good and is solid.

 

[rhoogkamp]

I really like what you did and will probably copy - nice job and pictures! I would also like any information on the wiring you did so that the EVIC message was not coming up. I have read numerous posts but since we both have the same exact trucks I would appreciate your comments.



Everyone seems to think that there are no issues with the 2012 controller but I have been running mine on the "heavy" -10 setting since I bought the truck new. The trailer was a brand new 2011 40' pinnacle and I have taken wheels off checked and adjusted then brakes (supposed to be self adjusters) and the trailer still does not stop right.



Hooked up the other day and when I did my brake test before leaving the brakes were barely working would not even lock up on a reverse roll back (controller set on 10). I pulled emergency release and brakes locked up solid. - So much for 2012 controller being better.



Did you get your maxbrake from "plugitright" and does it come with the wiring directions for the 2012?

 

[BILLUA]

I did get mine from the great folks at Plug it Right. As far as wiring, the 12 has the standard brake controller pig tail, so no modifications are required. I took my 12 to the dealer and they reflashed it to remove the factory brake controller from the EVIC.



I think others here have devised a simple cross wire technique to eliminate and nuisance messages.



You will be very happy with this controller...

 

[Dutch & Di]

Hi Kevin.
I'm glad you are happy with your Max Brake and like me, one of the few who don't think the look of the controller is awful.
Just wanted to add a clarification.
Neither MB nor I can control which Master Cylinder goes into the various trucks. Example, we find that a mid year truck could have the current year, the prior year or the next year master cylinder in it so it is very hard to keep our charts current. I actually have 2 Dodge trucks that take a Ford tee-go figure.
These changes in Master Cylinders also make it extremely difficult if not impossible to determine whether the tee or tees will fit in the front or rear port but at least we do know that they will fit in one.
The shrink wrap, while something you choose to do, is not really necessary. We haven't had any moisture in ours in over 5 years but whatever works for you is good.
Bleeding the brakes at the sensor: just for those who may be curious, is discussed on page 6 of the manual.
I don't know of any type of sensor bracket available and I have not had any customer call needing one.
There is no way for a pre bent hydraulic line to be included in a kit as it is unknown what the customer does or does not have in the way when installation is going on. It is the same with cable routing.
I know of no other company who will send additional tees, at no charge, when more then one is indicated as a possibility. Others as well as Max Brake themselves would pick the one they "think" is the correct one and include it in the order. If it is incorrect, measurements must be taken to see which is the correct tee and once the tee is received back, the next one is sent out. I never want to hold up a customers installation so I choose to include multiple tees at no additional cost and only ask that the unused tees be returned to me once installation is complete.
Please do keep me & the forum posted on you test run but I cannot imagine you not being totally happy with it. Diana

Just an update. Installed the MaxBrake controller last night. I have a 2012 2500 crew cab, automatic, ST trim level.

We used a small bracket from something else that had a ninety degree bend in it to mount the hydraulic pressure sensor on; the bracket is mounted with one of the bolt/nuts that secure the brake master cylinder to its bracket. The "tee" fitting that came with the kit would only work on the back port of the master cylinder - would not fit the front port. Three tee fitting came with the kit - I am to send the two I did not use back - but it caused a momemnt of consternation when none of the three tee fitting worked on the front port of the master cylinder. Took some patience to bend the new brake line to curl around and meet the sensor. I used a piece of shrink wrap over the whole sensor plug to keep moisture out of the plug in the future.

The instructions don't explain this, but it made perfect sense when it was explained to me: the brake master cylinder is at the highest point of the braking system so air will not go down in the lines when one line is removed from the master cylinder. There is a check valve that keeps fluid from flowing out/air flowing in to the master cylinder with a line unhooked. So, it really is OK to bleed only at the top of the system. We were really cautious and bled at the master cylinder entry, the new tee fitting, and also at the pressure sensor fitting. That was probably more than necessary, but I think it is better to be safe than sorry with brake issues.

There is a nice rubber boot to feed the sensor cable through and into the cab right above the parking brake pedal - a small slice with a razor knife and a little rubber cement to seal afterward took care of that.

The sensor cable was easy to snake under the dash and out a little rectangular opening already in the middle of the console area - right under the temperatire controls. The wiring bundle required a little more patience as the rectangular opening was almost the same size as the plug. Used a number of zip ties to locate the wire runs way up under the dash so there will be no chance of falling down into the pedal area and causing a problem.

The dash plastic in the middle has a nice slant to it that allowed for mounting the controller right in the middle at a neat angle - really easy to read the screen and really easy to reach.

Read the manual and did the calibration; it won't be tested for real until the drive to the TDR CMEP gathering next week.

I think the kit for the installation of the MaxBrake controller could be better: it could come with a mounting bracket, bent hydraulic line, proper tee fitting, etc. , as well as suggested cable routings for the truck you have. This would save installation time. I know nothing about what this would mean to the vendor - just that the product installation would be much improved if it worked that way. If you are going to get the MaxBrake then plan to spend some time on figuring out the mounting bracket for the pressure sensor, sorting out the tee fitting, bending the hydraulic line, routing cables, etc.

I note that some said the controller itself was not visually appealing - beauty is in the eye of the beholder - I think it looks good sitting there.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Diana:



My comments on how the kit could be better were just that: what could be better about the kit. You know better than I regarding the practicality of making that happen on your end. Also, my use of shrink wrap and lots of bleeding of hydraulic lines just reflect my approach as far as safety is concerned (i. e. , go overboard). I am certain I do more than required (which ensures I do all that is required).



I was not able to tow the trailer to CMEP due to timing with axle/tire replacements. I have since picked up the trailer and moved twice. I immediately tested the manual feature on the brake controller at a slow speed in the parking lot - brought the trailer and truck to a prompt stop. I then messed with the gain just a little: I tried until it felt like the trailer was slowing both the truck and the trailer and then backed off just a little. It feels to me like the truck and trailer are one unit now.



My truck (2012) did not have a brake controller installed, and I did nothing to disable EVIC messages - I don't get any messages.



I should point out that I am new to the truck, new to the trailer, and new to towing something - so, I am surely not the best reference point. On the other hand, the reasoning behind the MaxBrake appears superior to the reasoning behind the inertial brake controllers (in my opinion). The MaxBrake seems to work in an ideal fashion, as far as I can tell.



I'll add an update after going somewhere with the trailer.



Kevin

 

[Dutch & Di]

Hi Kevin, I want you to know that was not criticizing. Sometimes with posts pertaining to a product that I use and sell, I might go in and address different points for Clarification only. That is what I felt I did here but if I have offended you or upset, I apologize. Di.

Diana:



My comments on how the kit could be better were just that: what could be better about the kit. You know better than I regarding the practicality of making that happen on your end. Also, my use of shrink wrap and lots of bleeding of hydraulic lines just reflect my approach as far as safety is concerned (i. e. , go overboard). I am certain I do more than required (which ensures I do all that is required).



I was not able to tow the trailer to CMEP due to timing with axle/tire replacements. I have since picked up the trailer and moved twice. I immediately tested the manual feature on the brake controller at a slow speed in the parking lot - brought the trailer and truck to a prompt stop. I then messed with the gain just a little: I tried until it felt like the trailer was slowing both the truck and the trailer and then backed off just a little. It feels to me like the truck and trailer are one unit now.



My truck (2012) did not have a brake controller installed, and I did nothing to disable EVIC messages - I don't get any messages.



I should point out that I am new to the truck, new to the trailer, and new to towing something - so, I am surely not the best reference point. On the other hand, the reasoning behind the MaxBrake appears superior to the reasoning behind the inertial brake controllers (in my opinion). The MaxBrake seems to work in an ideal fashion, as far as I can tell.



I'll add an update after going somewhere with the trailer.



Kevin

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Diana:



Certainly no offense taken and did not mean to give any.



In case I was not clear - and for those who are interested in a brake controller - I am 100% pleased with MaxBrake and plugitright.com. I read many posts in trying to select a brake controller and MaxBrake and plugitright.com were recommended, and I'd say the recommendations were right on the money.



Kevin