Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Plate Position

[PKirby]

I bought a used TST #6 plate kit, (not a copy), on Ebay. My pump and injectors are from a '96 auto. The problem is the previous owner kept the cam plate so I have no starting point to go from. I have a stock plate in it now about 1/8" forward from center. What would be a good starting point for the #6 plate?

Thanks.

 

[K5IP]

When I bought a #6 from TST for my 95 5spd, TST said to install it in the original position.

Rog

 

[bmoeller]

I think putting it in the center would be an OK place to start. If you don't have a pyro, you should get one. Watch the EGTs, and tune from there.

 

[PKirby]

I installed it 1/8" forward from center as I had my stock plate, AFC full forward. Way too much smoke for my liking, I had almost no smoke before. I expected more of a power increase also. Boost is up about 5 psi over stock to about 10 psi when accelerating fairly heavy. Pyro is in safe limits. I may move the plate to center and try again.

 

[bmoeller]

Does it smoke all the time, or just at take-off? How much is to much? Some is OK.



You can use the star wheel to fine tune the off boost fueling. Turn the top of wheel towards the engine for more fuel, away for less.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Star Wheel

Here is a little food for thought! If you get the star wheel to tight it will limit the AFC arm travel because of coil bind.



If you have the AFC too far back the arm will never bottom out in the plate... ... the arm is the deciding point for max fuel... ... . rack travel!



BOTW, all the way forward on either the plate or the AFC and the star wheel loose is not the answer!



Jim

 

[bmoeller]

all the way forward on either the plate or the AFC and the star wheel loose is not the answer!



Jim

What ever do you mean. It is great. Works for us who don't have a Piers stoopid pump.



BTW, what does BOTW mean? New one on me.

 

[PKirby]

I called TST yesterday to ask about the correct position for the plate. They told me it was not a TST because it was not a 1 piece billet plate. The person I bought it from has offered a refund and said they did not intend to mislead. He meant it was like a TST. The guy who actually made the plate also sells them on Ebay but I never bought one because I was waiting to find a used TST.

I slid the AFC back 1/8" and it helped the smoke. I am sure I could adjust the star wheel and fine tune it. Most of the smoke is when you first hit the throttle before the turbo spools up.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

What ever do you mean. It is great. Works for us who don't have a Piers stoopid pump.



BTW, what does BOTW mean? New one on me.

Sorry for the extra letter... ..... I'm referring to a stock pump, I call it my bag of tricks that I don't let out but will perform. I have helped a few people that just seem to keep beating there head against the wall. There are a few good tools to have tuning a 12V, one is tools to tear things apart and see how they work and what is in the way of progress. A pressure regulator(in hand) with a gauge, connected to shop air, this is to simulate boost.



I like the stock turbo trucks and yes 215's are at the top. You can make allot of power and EGT's with very little smoke if there tuned right.



Stoopid pumps are for knuckle heads(like me) remember my last dyno event I did 650 on #2 with a stock 215 pump... ..... bone stock not benched!



Jim

 

[bmoeller]

I can make plenty of smoke if I want. Just control it with the skinny pedal. The 370s cause most of it. Would be nice to get rid of the haze at idle from them, though.