Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Plate Question

[Boomer II]

Several years ago I had a guy "bomb" my truck, supposed to be 250 HP. I have no idea what he did, is there a way to tell if he put a different plate in by looking from the outside? If so, where would I look? Thanks for your patience.

 

[Kernel]

Look to see if the factory break-off screw on the AFC housing has been changed or any other chips of paint missing from the other bolts. Hope this helps.



Scott

 

[Joe G.]

Some people who were worried about the warrantee painted the scuff marks. A new break off screw is included in the plate kits. The only way to tell for sure is to open it up and look for a large number engraved on the top of the plate and no rivits. If it's all skinned up or the break off screw has been replaced you still may have as stock plate. It may have been pushed forward.



With all that said, if it looks like it hasn't been opened it probably has not.

 

[Boomer II]

AFC housing? I'm Dieselie challenged.

 

[Kernel]

Maybe somebody can post a picture (haven't figured it out yet). I will try to explain.



On top of the injection pump and located toward the firewall, is a housing that has a hex bit plug on the very top (this is where the "star wheel" is for future reference). The front of the housing is just under the injection lines and the air intake horn. The line running from the turbo over the engine inbetween the valve covers comes to a brass fitting which is located in the back of the AFC housing. This housing comes off and located directly under it is the fuel plate. There is a regular screw head bolt, 2 10mm bolts, and a breakoff screw holding it onto the top of the pump.



Hope this helps.



Scott



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[Boomer II]

Thanks Scott and everybody, I'll check it out this evening. I guess I need to follow that link in the other thread and order a service manual.



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[Joseph Donnelly]

Power Kit (torque plate) installation, with good drawings, is covered at www.tstproducts.com