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Has anybody ever Ground there own Fuel plate and has anybody got a template to do so? I am thinking of starting to bomb after 100000 miles. First post hope I got it right.
 
Champane, a hardy welcome to TDR!!! The time/effort of getting a plate right, doesnt make it worth the effort... the consequences of getting it wrong make it a foolish project. Please checkout the 'group purchases' in the classifieds, I love my TST!!

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97 2500 CC 4x4 3. 54 5spd, #12 plate, 4inch open exhaust, 235/85 Michelins, PrimeLoc, Red Tops
 
Happy to be here. I was a supscriber back in 95 BC ( before computer). I have enjoyed reading the post for a few months now. It is fun participating.

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95 Dodge 2500 Luverne grill guard,headache rack,running boards and Amzoiled. Soon to be mildly bombed.
 
Champ,the cam plates tolerances are in the thousandths,you'd have to be pretty darn good with a grinder. The metal is also very, very hard. These are the reasons those little plates are so expensive.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(Play truck)95 3500,5 speed,Driftwood,Banks&Phscotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(work truck)
 
this is a bunch of molarkey, I've used my own 215 plate with the adjustments cut off the sides and slid to within 1/16" of the front of the opening for over 100k, made 320hp at the rear tires like this with NO PROBLEMS. You can also slide the afc housing forward for more pre-boost power, take the spring out of the housing, cut the washer behind the diaphram flat for 10/20hp over not cutting it. This is not rocket sience as you guys make it out to be, all these things are just trottle stops, just because it doesn't have someones name on it doesn't meen its not exactly the same thing, moved forward. If you want an "engineered" plate buy one from Piers or Joseph D. They will give you fair prices and have anything else you need.
 
Since it looks like Ill own this truck for the rest of my life, I was wondering how much HP I can put into this motor without doing any damage to the driveline? Mine is a automatic with 354's. Im only at 49k with the DC 7/100,000 warranty. Should I waite until I hit 100k or chance it now and hope I dont blow whatever warranty I may have. My dealer is always looking to void my warranty and this could be something that might do it. There is a Cummins auth. repair shop a few miles from my ranch. They want $250 to do the plate mod and clame that the dealer will never figure it out. I think once they drive it with anything more than 250- 275 hp, they may think sonmething is up. They already think Ive done something since I have a 49 state emission motor, Bought at Dave Smith Motors in Idaho. Suggestions would be great. . I would like as much power as I had with the 97 Ford I traded in.

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98 Quad Cab 4X4 Cummins PAID WAY TOO MUCH$$$$$$$$ Automatic Totally loaded Minus fuel sender plus right brake pull, no extra charge! K&N filter, Line X spray on liner that chips everytime I haul something, WORTHLESS CHRYSLER 7/100,000 WARANTY, First name basis with Enterprise Rent a Car and my local AAA tow truck driver.
 
Phil, I would dump that dealer it sounds as if they are jerks. Take it to the Cummins shop and have the mods done. The engine is warrantied by Cummins not Dodge. And if accredited Cummins shop,No Problemo. Am I right guys? Sounds like a good price.

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95 Dodge 2500 Luverne grill guard,headache rack,running boards and Amzoiled. Soon to be mildly bombed.
 
Phil, I would hold off until that warranty that you bought expires. Especially since there are lurking DC eyes that read these threads. Your certainly going to have them checking now that you have asked about upgrades.
Adam is right though, many guys custom grind their own plate, and they are not diesel mechanics. They just can't give any specs because they haven't keyed in a mathematical equation to get a cut. They measure their success by feet pulled, or seconds in a 1/4 mile.
That is the exchange, you pay for someone to do all of the research involved and then they can label their plate with a hp/torque rating. Champane, if you talk to the guys at the Cummins shop they may be able to give you some hints on grinding your plate.

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Eric
GLTDR
 
Looks like the best thing to do is waite until the warranty is gone. For the record, to all you DC guys who snoop these threads... . KISS MY A$$...

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98 Quad Cab 4X4 Cummins PAID WAY TOO MUCH$$$$$$$$ Automatic Totally loaded Minus fuel sender plus right brake pull, no extra charge! K&N filter, Line X spray on liner that chips everytime I haul something, WORTHLESS CHRYSLER 7/100,000 WARANTY, First name basis with Enterprise Rent a Car and my local AAA tow truck driver.
 
Has I recall from reading warranty manual Dodge handles the engine warranty. Dodge is the one that has the right to void warranty for power enchancement. Usually Cummins won't do power enchancements that exceeds specs for Dodge until truck is out of warranty.
Dodge can job truck out to Cummins or Diesel shop if they don't know whats wrong or can't fix it.
Remember that injector pump cost as much as a chevy 350 short block.
 
The problem with moving the fuel plate forward is that you don't increase mid range fueling "enough" and you can increase top end fueling too much, especially with the 215 hp. If you were in a situation where you held the 215 at 2500-2600 rpm for "a while", the egt would skyrocket with the stock plate shoved forward. The torque plates as sold by TST and BD are carefully engineered and a better value than almost anything else you could do to any engine for the power you get. Another problem you can get into occurs when the plate no longer stops the rack. The stop pin costs about $1, can shear, and if it does, you get to buy a whole injection pump.
 
Phil,

Another 300 bucks and an hour in the driveway isn't goning to hurt ya too much. It will definately change the way you feel about your ride, in a positive light. A performance cam plate isn't guess work and doesn't require dial calipers or micrometers to complete the modification. All that is done for you by guys that have propellers on their hats and have put exaustive research and investment capital into development. Depending on your mechanical aptitude and time on your hands, you could cut and grind your own plate and see what happens. What happens if you mess up? Although that never happens in my driveway ( yea, right ) it could be quite costly. I chose the vendor route and bought a plate and put it in myself. Fairly straight foward and cheaper than my time had I tried to modify the existing plate. It was an easy decision for me but I can definately understand why some people would choose to tackle the modification from a different angle. I just didn't care to re-invent the wheel and don't have the time or desire to do so.

Ahh, freedom of blab. Hey, it's your truck. You do what the H*** you want to with it.

My (. 02x10-5)

Steve.

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98 qc, 12V, 4x4, slt laramie, 3:54 ls diff, 2YG pkg, Kelsey trailer brake control, dodge running boards, diamond plate bed rails, prime designs bug shields, silencer ring wind chime on porch, Raven cab-hi camper shell, psychotty air system, T/C lock-up switch, gutted cat, Walker muffler 22572, crome 5" tip from Kenworth stack, Isspro guages, A pillar 3 guage mount, TST #6 250/635.

Toys: 70' F250 4x4 highboy- 429cid 400+ hp on 35"BFG's(ranch truck) 64' MF 205 tractor 3cyl perkins diesel w/bucket
 
Thank you for the responses. Have decided to wait and see what happens between now and 100000 mile mark. I do all my own work on my vehicles and will probably fiqure out something by the time I get ready to do it. Was just curious if anybody had done it or had some different templates for different powerlines= Lowend/highend power.
I have a rough time even turning my truck over to any shop even for tire changes.
I guess I might be one of those guys with the propeller beanies. Bought this truck new in 95 and have spent a total of $1. 44(for a fuel return line)in 70000 miles. Been a Dodge man since 69 first ride in GTX440.
New on the site and have enjoyed so far.

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95 Dodge 2500 Luverne grill guard,headache rack,running boards and Amzoiled. Soon to be mildly bombed.
 
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