Please clarify the fuel shutdown/starter probelm

[46mech]

O. K. , I've read thru several posts concerning the engine either not starting OR not shutting down when turned off, and it being related to the starter. I would just like some help, from those of you who have delt with this problem, how did you determine the starter was still turning even though the pinion had disengaged?
I had a situation today in which, after starting the engine, I experienced a very audible low-toned whine that would not go away. I have experienced that noise before, but it hasn't lasted more than a second or two. The only difference today was the fact that after it became apparent it wasn't going to stop, I went to shut off the engine and it wouldn't!
In my panic, I vaguely remembered something about this fuel shutdown solenoid, but did not have a clue where it was (but now I do!) so I popped the air cleaner and blocked off the air supply to shut it down. As the engine cut off I heard that whine slowly wind down to a stop.
I didn't have any problems restarting the truck two other times after that, but to be honest I sure thought the sound was coming from the turbo.
Sorry for the lengthy post, but hopefully you all can let me know if that sound I heard was the starter. Thanks

 

[danandamy]

You probably need to rebuild the solenoid portion of the starter. Basically consists of a couple of contacts and a plunger. You should be able to get them at an automotive electrical shop. There's a fairly detailed account of how to do it in the latest TDR issue, page 12. That guy really sounds like he knows what he's doing. #ad
Oh, it's me #ad
Anyway, I'm fixing to have to do the one in my 4x4. If you have around 100,000 miles I can just about guarantee you it needs to be done. If you can't find a rebuild shop, drop me an email, I can put you in contact with a place that can fix you up.

Daniel

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Wife's truck:
95 2500 SLT Laramie 3. 54 automatic JVC cd out of factory infinity system, southwest grill gaurd (a favorite amongst the deer population), K&N chunked, AFC adjusted, "gutless" cat, Geno's dual EGT/boost gauge, TST #6 plate slid all the way forward, AFC housing slid all the way forward, silencer ring removed

My truck:
95 2500 SLT Laramie 4x4 automatic, Geno's dual EGT/Boost gauge, Dodge cat test pipe (I'm still testing hehe), Geno's muffler eliminator pipe, AFC star wheel adjusted for smoke show, TST #6 plate slid all the way forward, AFC Housing slid all the way forward. On order, DTT valve body and torque converter, I decided to finally upgrade my poor auto transmission after over 100,000 miles of trouble free service.

 

[Missouri Mule]

46mech,
Don't know what causes it exactly. From reading an old repair book "over run clutch" seems to be problem(I will check on exact term/cause tomorrow). The symptom of low whine noise points to it.
If you have manul trans next time but in high gear(4rth will do) and let clutch in and out once or twice. This worked for me once.
Solenoid is definitely part or all of problem.
But rather easy to fix if you can get contact points(usually plunger can be cleaned up with wire brush).
On my solenoid the battery contact point(on bottom) is the one that burned up. The plunger and the starter contact point(on top) were just discolored/dirty. I think the leaking return fuel line helped the contact point retire early.
I think that as battery contact point is disintegrating the plunger is going down at an angle this could cause it to stick I think. Sooner or later it gets worse and just clicks and finally does nothing.
Fix it before it gets to bad and check fuel lines.
I replaced the one contact point and starter acts like it never had a problem. (fuel line replaced before contact point)




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Bill Thomas
Missouri Mule - 96 Wht 4X4 ST CC,5 spd, 3. 54, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards.
99 Freightliner bl/wht FL60 ISB-5. 9 24v,215 hp,520 tq,6 spd, 3. 59 nsr,16 ft box, 19. 5 tires,Wt/gvw 11,000/23000