Please help me!!!

[puff1]

After taking my turbo off I found out that it may not have the factory turbine housing on it, this is what it looks likeView attachment 67380

it says packbrake on it but the little lever is welded so that the valve stays open I'm guessing. I dont know what size the housing is, according to the archives the numbers should be on housing, right? All I could make out was a 12 which looks like it is rivited on. View attachment 67381

I think I see 210 on there also, does any one recognize this turbine housing, is it a 12cm or 21cm? This is the turbo my brother gave meView attachment 67382 the HY-35, I think it has a 9cm turbine housing and it has 7 fins vs the 8 on the possibly upgraded H1-C. Can anyone explain the difference in the fin numbers... please:{

If you knowledgeable people could help me out I would be forever gratefull. Please tell me what you think, should I go with the old one or the new one? I was also thinking I could take the back plate off of the HY-35 so I could put his down pipe on with the 90 View attachment 67383 but I will wait untill I get some feedback from you all about what you think the best set-up would be. this is my beast View attachment 67384 I'm rebuilding the front axle and maybe doing the king-pins everything new rotors, inner and outer seals, calipers, adjustable drag link, stabalizer shocks and bearings. I have to drain the tires down 4 inches to get it in my garage now, one of the downfalls on lifting a truck a dodge I guess. I just love looking down on those new chevys though.

 

[Philip]

That #12 showing in the box on the second pic should be the housing size.



What does the tag on the turbo say?

 

[dpuckett]

The turbo in the picture is a HY35 with either a 9 or 10cm housing. You can tell by the V-band clamp on the exhaust housing, and the undivided housing. If you are staying at stock fuelling (yeah, right), you would be ok with it. If you plan to go over 200hp (1 turn of the full fuel screw), it'll choke and be a liability.



Look on the inside of the exhaust housing inlet. You may have to get a wire brush to get it to show, but it should show a number (12 or 14).



If your H1C is in good shape, I'd stick a HTT/ Gillett Stage 3 or 4 kit on it and get a 16cm housing for it. It will cost more, but it is more useable with our setups. I have had a few 12cm housings, and while they spooled fast, they didnt give me any more MPGs, and EGTs were only slightly lower than a ported 16 or 18.



Daniel

 

[puff1]

Thanks, you were right, there was a 3-12 on the inside. So I guess it's a 12cm, I guess thats why it spools to well. My truck does about a eight second 60, It keeps up to my wifes mercedes c-230 kompressor. Do you think that means it has injectors and the fuel turned up? I've been trying to figure out what I've got because I lost the phone number of the guy that sold it to me, he said it had like 270 hp but I find that hard to believe what do you think?

 

[dpuckett]

It's really hard to tell stock from aftermarket injectors without taking them out and looking at them.



270hp is possible with stock injectors, but I think you are nearing the upper reaches of their potential there.



How much boost can you see, and how hot is the EGT getting? If you dont have those gauges, it's a 25hp penalty



DP

 

[PToombs]

The previous owner probably had an exhaust brake on it. That would explain the "Pacbrake" housing. If the wastegate (little flopper inside) is welded so it stays closed, it could be restricted at WOT. Of course, this makes it spool to destruction too!

I'd stick with the 12 for now. Or like DP says, upgrade to a 16, especially if you plan on towing.