Please help with cab leak not 3rd brake light

[Razorhunter]

Water is coming in from this hole next to the seam sealer right where my finger is pointing. I dont believe I'm supposed to add more sealant here, as water would then be trapped inside the cab between the walls, correct? I've sealed 3rd brake light well. Aside from the back window gasket, is there anywhere else possible that water can get in and leak out here? I have a flatbed, so its hard to see the cab body seam, but feeling the outside of cab here, I do not feel anywhere water could get in. I'm thinking its the rear window (mine is solid, no slider) but before I pull the flatbed off, I wanted to ask you guys if there is anywhere else this water could be getting in??? I just cant tell where EXACTLY guys are talking about when they mention "adding seam sealer etc"
Thanks for any help with this guys.
This is the driver side, back corner of cab behind rear seat.

 

[sfritts]

If you have cab roof lights check them for a bad gasket , or check around the windshield

 

[Razorhunter]

No roof lights. Will attempt spray test today to try and single out a couple things.

 

[Wiredawg]

Do you have slider rear window? Didn't have problem with my 3rd Gen, but did on my 2nd gen. drain holes on slider were clogged. If not, check rear window gasket.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Razorhunter]

No slider. Will check window gasket today. Sounds like you guys say its window if not 3rd brake light. I assume there are no other possibilities.

 

[Wiredawg]

No slider. Will check window gasket today. Sounds like you guys say its window if not 3rd brake light. I assume there are no other possibilities.

There are weld seams that could be compromised. When I performed testing on my 96 Ram 2nd Gen, I stripped the interior out of the truck had my wife take water hose with spray nozzle spray the truck to find the leak. No fun, and mold is never good in a vehicle.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Razorhunter]

Ron, how so you repair the weld seams with sealant with any integrity to the repair? Without opening the sheetmetal seam back up and re sealing, I dont see any feasible repair. Thankfully mine is looking like a simple window gasket but always wondered about these sealed seams.

 

[Wiredawg]

Ron, how so you repair the weld seams with sealant with any integrity to the repair? Without opening the sheetmetal seam back up and re sealing, I dont see any feasible repair. Thankfully mine is looking like a simple window gasket but always wondered about these sealed seams.

Well, I'm not sure you can fix it with just silicon. I had a 93 that had a seam split... I shot silicon in it and riveted and siliconed it. It worked to stop the leak and didn't compromise structure. If it were the back, an assessment of the crack and possibly add reinforcement plate on back of cab, taking bed off to do it. I think would be better than cutting and welding in the truck.

Let us know for sure what you find.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Razorhunter]

Will do Ron,
In the meantime, do you or anyone reading this happen to know if there is ANY way possible for a good glass guy to redo this window gasket with such little clearance from the flatbed? I'm worried to death there is not enough clearance. I know pulling the flatbed is easy physically, but I've not currently got a readily available way to lift it up off the truck. Major bummer I may have to do this for a window gasket. Might post this to a group to see if anyone has ever attempted such a task.

 

[Wiredawg]

You took two diesel showers? I'm sorry but that's funny!

I fill until it clicks off, no mess and the extra fuel isn't worth it.

Will do Ron,
In the meantime, do you or anyone reading this happen to know if there is ANY way possible for a good glass guy to redo this window gasket with such little clearance from the flatbed? I'm worried to death there is not enough clearance. I know pulling the flatbed is easy physically, but I've not currently got a readily available way to lift it up off the truck. Major bummer I may have to do this for a window gasket. Might post this to a group to see if anyone has ever attempted such a task.

I believe you have to remove the bed. Interesting you ask. My 2017 Ram Cab and Chassis has a CM tow bed and had figured out it did not come with the rear window defroster listed on the window sticker. Dealer evaluated bed would have to come off to change it out. We both agreed too much cost effort to do it and refunded the price of it.

are you sure it's the gasket and not the trough the slider rides on? that's what mine was. I drilled bigger drain holes, problem solved.

Ron

 

[Razorhunter]

Mine is a solid back window. I hate sliders lol

 

[Wiredawg]

don't cost any money to go to a glass replacement shop and ask... maybe someone knows something we don't. Until then, I would put metal duct tape (shiny stuff) and protect it unless you're doing something quickly.

Cheers, Ron.

 

[Razorhunter]

There is about 3 local glass companies to me. One only does new auto glass installs and thr other two were in PCB on vacay this last week. I did find one guy who's coming out tom. $185 to fix the leak if he can do it. He told me today that since my glass is "encased" (rubber trim surrounding and covering the edge) that it has to be taken out from the inside which is good. So possibly it can be reset even with this headache rack. Don't know how I feel about $185, seems steep but crossing my fingers it can at least be done, regardless of whether I hire him.

 

[Wiredawg]

good luck... I believe I would do it IF he'll guarantee it at least a year.

ps: guaranteed in writing