2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Please help!!

[tblb0900]

70 miles from home and carrier bearing on rear driveshaft popped out and is pretty tore up. Wondering if there is any problem with pulling rear drive shaft and driving home in 4x4? Also need help on replacing carrier bearing assembly?

 

[n7gxz]

The problem with pulling the rear shaft out is that the output shaft from the transfer case will be opened up and you'll loose oil. If Dodge had used a fixed yoke on the back of the transfer case you could do it, I did it on my '87 Ramcharger when I had to have the slip joint replaced on the rear shaft.



Kevin

 

[HBarlow]

Is it possible to dissassemble the front universal joint and leave the yolk shoved in the transfer case to prevent fluid loss and drive 70 miles without it flying out?

Just a thought, I have no idea if it can be done?

 

[Skydiver]

Is it possible to dissassemble the front universal joint and leave the yolk shoved in the transfer case to prevent fluid loss and drive 70 miles without it flying out?

Just a thought, I have no idea if it can be done?

I would not try that.
Might try removing the rear shaft and driving it slowly to a parts house or repair shop. It will take a few miles before it dumps the fluid. How bad is it vibrating now at 35-40 mph? You be the judge. Can you just slow down and limp home?
.
If I break down away from home I do my repairs on the parking lot of where I find the parts. I know it's winter.

 

[mwilson]

Just a thought given the urgency of your issue,



Pull the yoke off and find something plastic like a soda bottle or something with the top cut off that fits fairly tightly on over the extension housing where the seal is.



Slide it on and band it as tightly as you can with a zip-tie, radiator clamp or whatever it so it can't come off or leak.

Take some spare ATF with you so you can top off the transfer case if needed.



Just go easy and try it, see if it will work. Might only have a few drips on the way home. Won't cost anything to try it.



Mike.

 

[jgillott]

Just a thought given the urgency of your issue,



Pull the yoke off and find something plastic like a soda bottle or something with the top cut off that fits fairly tightly on over the extension housing where the seal is.



Slide it on and band it as tightly as you can with a zip-tie, radiator clamp or whatever it so it can't come off or leak.

Take some spare ATF with you so you can top off the transfer case if needed.



Just go easy and try it, see if it will work. Might only have a few drips on the way home. Won't cost anything to try it.



Mike.

I agree that something like that may work. I've seen it done using a plastic cup, inserted bottom first, jammed in the end of an open axle shaft on big trucks being towed. Not perfect, but it keeps the fluid in for the most part.

 

[mwilson]

Just take your time, doing this will leave the end of the output shaft unsupported inside the extension housing.

Start gently and go slowly. If you feel a vibration slow down a little more.

You can do it, just pay attention to what is going on under there.

 

[Bob4x4]

No big deal,remove the driveshaft. We used a good oil resistant glove and some duct tape. In Baja we have done all kinds of field fixes to drive out of some ugly situati0ns. That truck got driven another over 500 miles without any issues. Stop to check the integrity of your field repair occaisonally till you are confident you are leak free

 

[HBarlow]

Bob,

Does the driver have to be very cautious with torque application via the right foot when driving the truck with front axle only? I assume the front differential is not nealy as strong as the rear.

 

[Bob4x4]

You are right about the front being much weaker. Driving like you would in front of an LEO is as much soft pedaling as will need to be done. That Trip back from Baja was a high speed convoy so no worries along the lines of limiting speed is necassary Torque limiting would be a prudent choice though

 

[tblb0900]

thank you for the replys. took a little more expensive approach with some plumbing parts from home depot to seal the transfer case but it worked enough to go 25 miles to my brothers house. I like the idea with the glove, that would have been cheaper than the 15$ I spent. Should I fix the bearing or get a driveshaft from a junkyard?

 

[mwilson]

If the driveline is OK, just change the center bearing. No sense in spending any more than you need to.



BTW, I thought the glove idea was pretty novel myself... ... . :-laf

 

[tblb0900]

How do you go about changing the bearing? Ive never done one. The rubber is shot too.

 

[Matt42]

It seems to be done now, and everyone is home and that is a good thing.



This happened to me in 1987 in SW Colorado with a 1976 Jeep Cherokee 4 speed with 150K miles on it when the Detroit type front U joint went bad. I took the joint apart, plopped the drive shaft in the back, and drove the (exactly) 404 miles home in 4X4. Torque and acceleration control was most certainly a must, so a light foot on the throttle as necessary. We had no problems, except when we were near Teec Nos Pos and to entertain our toddler, my wife opened a box of Bugles snacks which smelled like overheating mining machinery. (The 'problem' was my heart rate. ) The side benefit was that instead of our usual 12 MPG we got 18 MPG.



So yes, it works. But if pulling the yoke opens the transfer case, ya gotta cover it.

 

[HHhuntitall]

The center bearing, or what's left of it, has to be pressed off. Cut the steel straps that retain the rubber slide boot, slide the sliding yoke apart, separating the two shafts, and you'll see how the inner race of the bearing is pressed on the inner yoke. I have a shop press I use to press them on and off. A good straight piece of pipe works good for pressing it on. If you HAVE to, and you have a good hand, it CAN be cut off with a torch. I've done that a few times whenever my hydraulic pressure guage goes over 20k psi!!!! If it doesn't move by then, it won't without some help from heat. You may have to have a helper and lay the press on it's side, depending on what setups you have. Inland Truck Parts is set up with a full drive line shop, but they are expensive to use. You might could ask the dealer who does theirs.

 

[JMcCoy]

Replace the carrier bearing is a better option, if your drive shaft is still good. That way you know it is new. I think I paid like $70 for one at carquest, Make sure they give you the one that matches your truck. Advanced auto gave me the wrong one at first. If memory serves me well, it should be the one with no ears for the bolt holes. You will know what I'm talkin about, when you see it.



Here is the important part. Mark your two piece driveshaft, before you pull it apart. This will help you line up the splines, and it will keep your driveshaft in balance. You will have to take it somewere to have the old one pressed off and the new one pressed on. Carquest charged me $10-$20. Well worth it.



As for maintainance, I have a needle adapter for my grease gun. Occationally, I just shoot a little in there.



TRY TO STAY AWAY FROM CHINESE PARTS.



Good luck.

 

[mwilson]

.

TRY TO STAY AWAY FROM CHINESE PARTS. .

Amen to that... ... ... ... ... .

 

[HHhuntitall]

Here is the important part. Mark your two piece driveshaft, before you pull it apart. This will help you line up the splines, and it will keep your driveshaft in balance. You will have to take it somewere to have the old one pressed off and the new one pressed on. Carquest charged me $10-$20. Well worth it.



As for maintainance, I have a needle adapter for my grease gun. Occationally, I just shoot a little in there.



TRY TO STAY AWAY FROM CHINESE PARTS.



Good luck.

DOH!! Yeah, I should have said that, too!! Although, some shafts have double width splines so they'll only go in one way. Depends on how handy you are with your tools and how well your shop is stocked..... Don't forget to grease it good when you put it together, too, and check your U-joints while it's out!!!

 

[tblb0900]

Had to go to the dealer to find the bearing assembly for $170. Took it to the local auto parts store to have it pressed on for $15. Looks good and will try to reinstall tomorrow. Thank you eceryone for all of your help!