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Injector pump wrench

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I was on my way to work at the fire station about 0620 this morning when I suddenly lost speed. It acted as of the trans. popped out of gear, it didn't! Upon closer inspection on the side of the road revealed the driver side rear set of duals was about 18 inches out of the rear end. I got it towed home and pulled the rear end down. the nut has backed off the spindle and allowed the hub/axle to come off. The spindle does not appear to be hurt but the nut is boogered up and I will change the bearings an seals just in case. My question is: Is there a better nut/ locking assembly for my 92 D-350? I didn't even see any evidence of a retainer, just the nut and bearings. Thanks in advance for the help! I don't want to have this happen again.
 
Hey Killer',



I have NEVER heard of this happening to any of the 1st Gen guys... never!! You are the unlucky first one it seems.

I'll grab the manual later and have a look to see if it shows any type of retainer or lock-nut assembly.

It's strange though... . you'd think if it was stock (not repaired previously) that all the components would be there to see.



Let me look it up and I'll post as soon as possible. .



bob.



edit: here's the pic I scanned from the manual, it's in my Misc. Gallery...



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayimage.php?&photoid=3009&width=2&voteval=10
 
This spring my passenger side rear tried to do the same thing. The keeper was shredded, the nut was backed off slightly. What clued me on to it was the seal was leaking oil. I put new bearings, seal and keeper in it, haven't had any trouble since then, sorry can't explain it either:(
 
I agree!

I have only seen one other dually do this and it If I remember correctly was an inferior semi-floater. Hopefully we can figure this one out. I am pulling the other side down to check it as well. Thanks.
 
The stock setup is a small sharp pointed wedge you drive into the nylon lock nut. If someone else had it apart during its life and did not reinstall this wedge. Once the nylon in the nut took a set and loosened up. It would let the nut back off. If you need a pic of one. I have a couple around the garage somewhere.



Look real close in the bottom left corner of the link povided above. It is called a nut lock.
 
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Thanks for your help!

Luckily I work part time at Napa and they gave me a key, I went up there and lookud up a diagram and also took apart the other side. It appears the fellow I bought my truck frome installed new brakes a while back and did not replace the nuts and/or the locking wedge. We had a new nut and two wedges in stock so I ordered another nut and the socket to fit. I hope the 2 9/16" rounded corner Dana socket is the right one. Boy, it sure is nice to have a key to the parts store! Best part time job I've ever had. Only slight drawback is getting called at midnight for your buddy who was pulling an all nigher to go race the next day and needs something! Oh well, take the good with the bad! Thanks again! Jeremy.
 
did not replace the nuts and/or the locking wedge.



Most people do not think of thses two items being a one time use item. Those little wedge locks you can reuse. But the nuts sould be replaced everytime they are removed.



What are the NAPA numbers for those two items. My local store could not find them when I rebuilt the brakes on my rear axle.
 
Tell them to look in their big Balkamp book under wheel bearing retaining nut for a Ford 1 ton with a Dana 60/70. It's somewhere around page 38 in the catalog. I left the package to the nut at the store because I opened it to measure the size of the socket. The locking wedge part # is 635-1103 (BK is the line code). I will go back up there tomorrow and get the part number for the nut and post it. Hope this helps! Jeremy.
 
I thought I read on the forms a while back that there was a better nut for the rear axle bearings for our trucks. I did a brake job on the rear of my truck about five or so years ago and have put about 45 to 50,000 miles on it since and I used the old nuts (because I didn't know you needed to change them,never have on any other pickup's or big trucks I have done brake job's on) and mine seem to be holding up OK. I better shut up, my rear wheel's will be falling off next.
 
rear nut conversion

:cool: Killer. you will also need the OTC#7158 (2 1\2") nut wrench when you convert. Works great and is a positive lock. CR seal for the drums #28746. If you are in there, definetly speedi sleeve the tube and save some later grief. Email me if you need some more info, not a diffucult chore! Tim:)
 
Due to time constraints I have had to put it back together with new nylon nuts and wedges! The next rear brake job will include the spicer nuts! That will give me time to get everything together. Thanks for all the help!
 
Jbolt



A speedy-sleeve is used to repair a damaged seal surface. The damage is usually caused by normal wear from the seal lip, this looks like a groove worn around the spindle or shaft the seal rides on. Or it can be used to repair damage inflicted by a miss-guided hammer or chisel. It is very thin, hard chromed, sheet stock that is driven onto the spindle and locked in place with liquid thread sealer. Sure beats replacing a spindle or axle housing.
 
Thanks for your help!

I have it all together and running. I am going to change the gear lube tomorrow. Does anyone know of a way to retrofit my existing cover to allow for easier gear oil changes without the extreme expense of a Mag-Hytech. Perhaps a cheaper replacement? Thanks!
 
Philip, just be sure if You use the old nylon lock to rotate the nut to a fresh area that the locking wedge can bite into in the nylon. Some People use the original cut of the lock wedge in trying to maintain the original nut adjustment. This is no good as the lock may work out.



Chuck
 
I do not reuse the nuts. When they come off for any reason I throw them away. It is not worth spitting off a set of duals for the price of these throw away nuts.
 
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