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Simple power upgrades

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Just bought a left over 07 3500 4X4 straight cab with dump... It is the 6. 7 and I average 12mpg on the way home!!! Ugh... Not looking to make a race truck out of it but what are the best options for upping the power a bit and mpg's especially... Egr delete. . ? Exhaust. . ? With or without sensor bongs. . ? Which programmer. . ? Intake... ? I am used to my 5. 9's somewhere in the 20's. Thanks ahead of time!
 
Wait till you load it, that is about average for it. The high mpg's are history with the 6. 7's. The highest I have seen running all highway and empty is little under 17 once, but have not seen it since. No where close. I have 50000+ on it now, average in the 14's empty, around here pulling 6,000 lbs, average in the 11's. Pulling a 40' fifth wheel usually gets me between 7. 5 to 9. 6, depending on terrain and wind.
 
Your new ISB6. 7 will slowly loosen up over the first 30k to 50k miles. The change will not be seen or felt but eventually you'll notice. I don't know when and can't prove my statement but my '08 is my third one and with each one, somewhere along the line as the miles accumulated I realized that the truck's performance and fuel economy had improved.

You may not appreciate my advice for "upping the power" but you asked so here it is: Don't.

Changing the intake or exhaust except on a radically modified Cummins engine will do nothing for performance except jeopardize your warranty rights.

The complicated emissions control equipment on our trucks, mandated by the federal government not chosen by Cummins or Dodge, is designed to reduce diesel soot emissions into the atmosphere among other goals. If you modify the engine in any way that will increase fueling or modify fuel timing you will also increase soot emission. That increase will have an impact on the dpf, egr, turbo, and other internal parts.

The new engines are designed with software in the ECM that will detect and record the results of modifications. In some cases downloading software programmers will cause the engine to refuse to start.

Savvy dealer technicians will be able to recognize tampering. If you modify and then return the truck to a dealer with a complaint, tampering will be identified and your warranty claims may not be paid by Dodge.

You can read better and more detailed information on the subject in the excellent quarterly issues of TDR magazine.

Your truck, your money, your business. I have offered my opinion.
 
I have to agree, theres plenty of power with the stock set-up. I was getting 16. 8 mpg pulling a empty 28' gooseneck flatbed yesterday coming back from Texas. 12. 3 is about what I stay at loaded running around 68mph. 307k on the dash, and still running strong !!!
 
If it has a dump box on it you must have bought it to make a living. Don't make it harder buy takeing away reliability. The 6. 7s don't like to be messed with. If you just have to do something put a set of lock out hubs on the front axle and you will see some kind of gain. Enjoy your new truck.



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93 250 2wd xc 354 auto 273k

04. 5 3500 4wd qc dully 373 6speed 94k
 
I think he means that when you do a mod, sometimes the computer will shut down and not start then you will need to tow to the dealer where they will see that you had done a mod and then the repair is on you.
 
The computer lock down is a reality beginning with MY 2009 trucks or earlier models like my '08 that have had the factory computer reflash performed.

I took my truck to Mike Mullenax, TDR member and skilled Cummins tech, at the east Texas dealer where he works in summer of 2008 for him to do a reflash. Before he started the reflash procedure he warned me that once the reflash was downloaded the computer would sense the addition of an aftermarket downloader or whatever the devices are called and would lock down. The only cure is to tow the truck to a dealer and pay for a reflash to restore the factory program.

I have no intention of modifying the engine or software program and agreed.
 
I have been pondering this question for some time and I don't believe that I have been enlightened to the answer: 'Why are people so set on getting 25 mpg with a 4 wheel drive one ton dually truck that tows 21,000 pounds and weighs in at 7,900 pound empty and are using it for a daily driver?' IMHO the 6. 7l at 350 hp and 650ft/lbs torque in a truck that weighs as much as it does and get 20 mpg on the hiway empty and tows 11,000 lbs up 6% grades in 6th yet it still yields 10 mpgs+ not to mention meeting the 2010 emmissions requirement, why are some complaining? Mine is stock and will most likely remain that way until the wheels fall off of it. In case you are curious I do enjot the 6. 7l and am very glad I purchased it, there were many choises for me at the time and I chose it. With 45,000 trouble free miles I can't complain. (I did enough with the V-10 gasser for 170,000 miles, comlain about 10 mpg on a good day with a tail wind), Sorry just my 2 bits worth.
 
My truck is an 07. 5, one of the first builds. It has been trouble free since purchase. I had a message on the overhead telling me the dpf was 80% full one time only. I took it out and drove it which corrected the problem. It has never occurred again! I really enjoy it and have left it completely stock. All software updates were done along the way! My gross combination weight when towing is right at 23k. I regularly get 12 mpg, hand calculated, while towing and frequently rack up 17mpg while running solo. I don't think you can ask for more when you consider the torque and power available throughout the rpm range. It does all I ask of it and would do more. I know there are many of you out there who have horror stories but I am definitely not one of them.
 
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