2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Plumbing secondary fuel tank

[mfunderburgh]

I am interested if any body here has plumbed up an in-bed fuel transfer tank to run to their cummins. I have a steel L-shape 105 gallon tank that I would like to put in my truck to fill equipment out in the field and I would also like to be able to run my truck off of it.

 

[Whitmore]

Do your lift pump a favor and plumb the aux tank into the suction of the l/p, this will give the l/p a positive feed or head pressure and it will no longer need to suck fuel from the oem tank, I firmly that the vacumn that the l/p has to deal with is what is killing them faster than carter can make them, I also believe that the oem l/p is not that bad at all its how it is setup that is bad. Then plumb the return line in as well. Use your oem tank as a reserve and buy a small transfer pump to move the fuel up to the bed mount tank. Dont forget that the new tank will need to be vented as they usually come with just a plug in them. Buy a good fuel gauge and sender so you can monitor the level in the cab too.



cheers, Kevin

 

[Turbo Thom]

Kevin:

I think he has the P7100 on a 96. Would the same apply?





. Preston. .

 

[Whitmore]

OOOPs I didnt see that it was a 96, I am unfamiliar with that fuel system



cheers, Kevin

 

[Joe G.]

There is a capped off fitting on the fuel sending unit/pipe connection contraption on your fuel tank that allows another tank to be connected. I just installed an extra tank in the bed of mine. I have an electric pump to transfer the fuel. I had to install a solenoid valve because when the pump was off the extra tank would siphon into the main tank. That was necessary to prevent the main tank from running over.

 

[rrausch]

Joe, where did you get your solenoid valve? The one I bought only 10 months ago is now leaking diesel into the main tank. The one I got is a selector valve, not really a solenoid valve, and I plumbed it so it would flow diesel with the switch on. It worked great for many tankfuls, but as I say, is now leaking.



Now to answer mfundeburgh's question. I plumbed a selector valve, a diesel-rated pump, and a Napa diesel fuel filter/water separator all inline. I put everything under the bed of the truck on the driver's side. I got two sections of 3/8 brake line and had them welded into my filler neck, one for the fuel to go in, and one for the air to go back to the tank, so the tank would not pull dirty air or try to collapse under the vacuum pressure of the fuel being pumped out. It works great. Aside from my ATS Trans. , it is the best thing I ever did to my truck.

 

[Joe G.]

The tank I have is off an old GMC dump truck. It holds 50 gallons. There is a fuel level float in it so I bought a gauge from Westach that works with it. It is vented with all the tank plumbing already on it. I plumbed the supply line to the main tank from the output fuel fitting on the tank. There is a filter, selector valve, and pump between the extra tank and the main tank. I don't need an air line back to the extra tank because of the vent. I'm using a selector valve. I had trouble with it at first. Then I found out that the push on electrical connector I was using had a little bit of rubber in it that was causing an intermittant connection. Working just fine now.

 

[JJW_ND]

Just "T" into the vent line...

We have several trucks with axillaries in the pickup box. All plumbed into the vent line. We add a electric solinoid valve (older model chevy right/left tank ... . two in and one line out valve).



We have no pumps, no filters, and no return lines. Simple! Works even in arctic conditions. Never overfills even if you leave the valve on (no pressure with no pump... . just gravity). Even with standard fuel lines in flows enough to keep up with 4. 5 mpg fuel consumption.



We have out tanks (home made) design so the intake is pulling fuel as close to the bottom as possible. Sucks every drop out and keep it CLEAN. I have ran over 16,000 gallons through my truck with over 2/3s ran through the axillary.



jjw

ND