PODs STINK...Literally

[jbolt]

Cough-Cough-GAK! Oh man these things are stinky! I haven't done any pump adjustments yet and I spent most of the day driving in town. I'll bet the X-mas shoppers hated me today. #@$%!



Right now there is this obnoxious haze from my tailpipe and I'm leaving a nice light fog behind me. I need some door plaques that say West Nile Virus Spray Vehicle :-laf :-laf



Hopefully I can get to the timing tomorrow and get the idle rpm up a little more.



Any thoughts on where the smoke screw should be set? I hope I can get the smoke down a little. People are going to start thinking it's a Mercedes Turbo-Diesel



Cough-Hack... .



Jay

 

[Philip]

West Nile Virus Spray Vehicle

ROFLMAO

 

[Underdog]

Your signature shows that you have a BHAF but,I don't

see anything about your exhaust. If your exhaust is stock,

that might be part of the problem. The stock exhaust is too

restrictive on our trucks and can add to excessive smoke.

 

[formula]

Advance your timing !



Besides the timing, if you have tweaked the AFC for throttle response with the old injectors, this will cause lots of low boost acceleration smoke with the PODs. You should try backing out on the smoke screw and adding some more tension on the AFC spring by backing out the starwheel a turn or two. Idle speed in gear with ac running should be about 750rpm.





"West Nile Virus Spray Vehicle"... ... hehehe... . :-laf :-laf



Cheers,

Sean

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

I agree with formula, adjust your timing to 15-15. 5*advance. Around 14. 5-15mm.

Also your smoke screw should be set "neutral". That is, it should not contact the AFC diaphram. Use the starwheel to adjust when you fuel starts to "come on" and use the diaphram to tweak your response to boost.

Last, the full fuel screw, sends extra fuel to the entire RPM range, from idle right up thru WOT. A larger percentage of that increase is sent to the low/mid range, with the remainder sent to upper end. Keep that in mind as you tune.

While your under the hood, remove, clean and reconnect ALL your sensor connections including the KSB. Use a good electrical contact cleaner then apply some dielectric grease and re-assemble them. It's cheap and easy, and will help reduce poor sensor outputs/signals.



Merry Christmas !!!

bob

 

[jbolt]

Bob-



1. How do you know when the smoke screw is at neutral?



2. AFC star wheel- from what Formula is saying I should back it out a turn or two (ccw) ??



I have not opened the diaphragm yet (ever) should I turn the eccentric while I'm in there?



The TPS bracket covers the diaphragm cap. Anything I should be aware of or beware of when removing this, springs, washers, shims, little green men



Jay

 

[Philip]

The TPS bracket covers the diaphragm cap. Anything I should be aware of or beware of when removing this, springs, washers, shims, little green men

Nothing there to worry about. All the TPS has is a little bolt head that fits into a socket. When you put the TPS back on just open the throttle a little for the bolt head to go into the socket easyer. A little grease here won't hurt eather. Mine was rusted on the socket pretty bad.

 

[Dfeland]

I have the problem solved!... ...



You really need a PDR HX-35 to get rid of that smoke!

 

[nascar mark]

Jbolt,



1. How do you know when the smoke screw is at neutral?



When the screw is just touching the top of the concentric pin. Do this adjustment last as it will change after you adjust the starwheel.



2. AFC star wheel- from what Formula is saying I should back it out a turn or two (ccw) ??



That is correct. The more you back out the starwheel the more early boost you would need to start the low boost fuel = less smoke.



3. I have not opened the diaphragm yet (ever) should I turn the eccentric while I'm in there?



You can turn it depending on what you want your truck to do. Deepest point on the pin fasing front of engine will give you more power but remember also more smoke and egt heat. Can't have your cake and eat it too. haha



4. The TPS bracket covers the diaphragm cap. Anything I should be aware of or beware of when removing this, springs, washers, shims, little green men



Philip covered this one.

 

[jbolt]

Woo Hoo! Got the timing done.



Had to do the quick and dirty metod. Moved it 1/8" To use the gauge requires removing the #1 injector line and I was not up to it today. All I can say is WOW! Smokes way down... well at least when my foot stays out of it.



No fueling adjustments yet. Not until I do the transmission but this will be fun for a while. Wife and I went out this evening and found some nice steep hills to try. I can't believe it will pull hard all the way up. NEVER been able to do that before.



With he timimg up the EGTs are down 50-100, WOT I maxed out at 1100*, Boost maxes out at 25 and RPMs at 2500-2600. Kind of hard to watch all those gauges flyin up a hill at 85mph



What's really got me stumped is why my transmission temps are down about 100* It never got over 170* tonight even haullin but up hill.



At WOT I can hear the turbo too now. Took me a while to figure out what the noise was. Truck sounds completely different. New noises to get used to.



I WANT MORE!!! hehehe



Gotta go!



Merry Christmas!

 

[Scot]

Mark,

On average, how many turns is the starwheel off of the bottom? Mine was 5/8 and if it was not stock, someone did a real good job hiding the evidence.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Scot,

normally that will vay between pumps/trucks, but I'd say roughly 2-3 turns off the bottom is common. It's not too hard to "ajdust the starwheel without much evidence of that. Just the 4 screws is all there is to get the top off and your in...



jbolt,



We thought you'd like the difference once the timing was done...

It helps alot, right across the board generally,... .

I can't think why it would impact transmission temps other than perhaps you need slightly less throttle to keep speed due to the advance... this in turn mean less fueling and less transmission work... . but that's just a theory, based on way too much Christmas Cheer



Bob.

 

[Scot]

Evidently it either came that way or someone repainted the top. I broke the paint "seal" around the screws. There was no evidence where the heads had been boogered by a screwdriver.



Thanks for the info.