Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) poor mans 5th gear fix

[Nick2]

Well guys, after reading the war stories I've decided that the best way to avoid fifth gear problems (after I fix it this time) is with some out of the box (or out of my head thinking). Here's how I see it... brace yourself...



The goal of fifth gear is to slow the engine down by . 73X



The goal of first gear is to get me out of the hole.



I dont use first gear.



I effectively have a 4 speed.



If I use 1st through 4th only I will still effectively have a 4speed.



If I put 36 inch tall tires in place of my 28's I'll retain the same final gear as a 5 speed with 28's and my 4speed operation.



36 inch tall tires would be awesome :-laf



This fix can be made to cost the same as a repaired trans, and my chance of losing 4th gear are are astronomically lower than losing 5th (again)- if 5th is never used.



I know this sounds rediculous, but desperate times call for desperate measures. Alright now tell me what a half ***** dim witt I am... .



ps- I dont tow

 

[SRadke]

I know this sounds rediculous, but desperate times call for desperate measures. Alright now tell me what a half ***** dim witt I am... .



ps- I dont tow

Actually it's a great plan... ... but I beat you to it My 35. 5" tires are sitting in the shed, I'm waiting for wheels.



4th gear offers numerous advantages. Direct (4th in a NV4500) is the strongest and most efficient gear in any transmission. It will take the most power, produce the least heat and cause less stress on the bearings and gears of the transmission. This is also the gear you should be towing in so even though you don't tow, you'd still have an excellent towing gear for that 55-65 mph range. Perhaps the best part of the whole plan is the fact that now if you wanted to get out on the freeway and cruise you'll also have a 75mph gear at 1900 rpm



-Scott

 

[pwerwagn]

The amount of weight gained and the rolling resistance will hurt some, though. I went from 35" tires to 39. 5" tires on my power wagon (with 4. 10's, no OD) and the extra rolling resistance/weight is noticable. I actually get worse mileage on the freeway then i did with the 35's.

I've ran 35's on my CTD and didnt notice much decrease in performance around town, though. but I still used 5th on the freeway, as 4th was not enough.

also, relize that usually a 36" tire is not actually 36". most companys are within +/- 1", but I've seen some worse than that!! (I had a 36" goodyear that measured 33-5/8" brand new!!!)

just something to think about.

 

[SRadke]

Going from a 35 to a 39. 5 will cost you not only in rolling resistance but rotational mass and aerodynamics. The mileage hit you took makes perfect sense.



-Scott

 

[pwerwagn]

I know, that is what I was tellin you guys. I was just using an experience I had. The 36's are going to cost you rolling resistance too over your stock tires.