poor running

[bigblock_doc]

I've replyed before about the electronic throttle light coming on. I can't be the only one with this kind of problem.

Going down the road at 70mph and want to pass and just give it a little, and I mean just enough to gain a little more

speed and nothing happens. It bogs, shakes, sometimes the jake turns on. The shaking is very rough. No codes set.

Happens once a day after 20miles to 250 miles. Dealer can't get it to do it. It is really noticable with the trailer hooked up.

Anyone with any ideas? Dealer has replaced throttle pedal and the brake light switch. Also supposed to have wiggled wires

and wet the motor down, butt... . Looks real dirty in there for being washed down. This has been going on for 20,000 miles.

Never broke down, but don't want to. Fuel filter, air filter both new. Dealer techs have spent time on it and I'm sure they

don't want to work for free. I'm between a rock and hard place. Again, any ideas or info or maybe a better dealer????

Thanks all.

 

[DieselLady]

Easy fix. It's the butterfly valve in the intake horn. You can pull off the intake horn and you will see it in there. JUst like an exhaust brake. It will get sticky if you are still using your EGR valve. I blocked the EGR and removed the butterfly valve. there are 2 screws on the back of the pivot point. Look at the back of the screws and you may need to grind off the back as they have been marred to prevent them from backing out. Then remove the screws, pull out the butterfly valve and put it back together. You won't have that problem again.
You may need to get a turner to turn off the code, Not sure but maybe.
If you don't want to remove it. Clean the inside of the intake horn real good so it doesn't get stuck again around the butterfly valve, then re assemble. It's Easy!

 

[DieselLady]

Easy fix. It's the butterfly valve in the intake horn. You can pull off the intake horn and you will see it in there. JUst like an exhaust brake. It will get sticky if you are still using your EGR valve. I blocked the EGR and removed the butterfly valve. there are 2 screws on the back of the pivot point. Look at the back of the screws and you may need to grind off the back as they have been marred to prevent them from backing out. Then remove the screws, pull out the butterfly valve and put it back together. You won't have that problem again.

You may need to get a turner to turn off the code, Not sure but maybe.

If you don't want to remove it. Clean the inside of the intake horn real good so it doesn't get stuck again around the butterfly valve, then re assemble. It's Easy!

 

[bigblock_doc]

Thanks, will try it when I get back home next weekend. Could I just remove the short piece where the butterfly is located? I'm due for the 65,000 cleanout and
new filter which I got from Geno's. Probably should due it all one time.

 

[DieselLady]

No you can't remove that because that is what your boost tube connects to. So just remove the butterfly valve, or rather the flapper inside that part of the tube and it will stop the dead pedal. You may want to think about an Edge or some other way to clear codes on startup. It may through a code when you remove it. But you can't keep running with it getting stuck.

 

[bigblock_doc]

Thanks again.
Doc

 

[bigblock_doc]

Back at the dealer today. Hidden codes (?) back again the the parts they replaced. Now they are going to replace the PCM.
Have it ordered, install on Wed. Hope this ends all this.

 

[DieselLady]

Hah?? Have you checked the valve? Seems like a lot of money to throw at it if it is the butterfly valve.

 

[bigblock_doc]

I look at it as its there money. If they make a mistake again they will try something else.
Write up guy says no way can it be the valve as I'm loaded 99% of the time. Shouldn't have
an excess of soot buildup. If it doesn't fix the problem I will take the intake off and look
myself. I'm tired of driving 80 mile round trip after I get home after a 3,000 mile trip.

 

[bigblock_doc]

I look at it as its there money. If they make a mistake again they will try something else.

Write up guy says no way can it be the valve as I'm loaded 99% of the time. Shouldn't have

an excess of soot buildup. If it doesn't fix the problem I will take the intake off and look

myself. I'm tired of driving 80 mile round trip after I get home after a 3,000 mile trip.

 

[DieselLady]

Ya, I get it, Just that, if it is the valve, I have heard it's hard on the turbo. Slamming shut it stops the airflow and shuts down the turbo wheel. Too much of that and I would think you could possibly break a shaft. Turbo shaft that is.
Well thanks for keeping us updated. Now I am seriously curious. ")

 

[bigblock_doc]

They replaced the computor. Will be going with out with the trailer on Thurs. Only time will tell. So far so good.
I'm keeping my finger crossed. If problem rises again, its lemon law time. But first I will try the valve deal.

 

[bigblock_doc]

Well, that didn't work. 200 miles into it and the same thing bog and no acceleration, with a side of shaking.
Almost got rear ended by a big truck while going up a hill on I77. In 3rd or 4th behind a dirt box, saw a
break in traffic in the left lane, steered left and hit the gas pedal and nothing. Hit it again, nothing,
steered back to the right just before he rammed me. Didn't want him to lose his steam.
Unplugged that device on the intake horn, it has 8 wires, and that didn't do any good.
Just cruising at 70 and all of a sudden, nothing. Kept foot in it and it just takes off.
Every day this thing acts up. . I can't duplacate it. Lemon Law???

 

[DieselLady]

Just go in and remove the butterfly valve. I'm pretty sure you will see this will fix the problem. Has anyone even checked to see if the intake horn is full of soot and causing the butterfly valve to stick shut??? I'll bet its that simple.

 

[bigblock_doc]

I will do while here in FL. Dealer claims that there should not be a soot problem since I'm loaded 99% of the time, on the highway. How about removing the
gear drive from the motor attached to the butterfly? I removed the wrong plug earlier. Ran kinda poor, derate? Will keep you imformed.
Thanks

 

[RDHamill]

Does the dealer rule out soot based on the theory that you're loaded 99% of the time, OR did they look at it?????
I believe that the crankcase venting into the intake (preturbo) oils the inside of the intercooler and intake tract.
I have cleaned mine twice in 180,000 miles as it was very dirty.
Could your throttle valve be gummed up???? but not from soot????

can you stroke that valve manually for see if it moves freely???

good luck

 

[DieselLady]

The throttle valve can still get caught in the air charge stream and get slammed shut. It is much easier to remove the butterfly valve rather than the motor mechanism. Seriously,,, I opened mine up at 8000 miles and you would not believe how black it is in there. I don't know how they can claim there is not a soot problem in there.

If you could just pull it out, and test drive it. I am pretty damn sure that would be what is causing the problem.

 

[bigblock_doc]

Based on theory only. They claim if something was wrong it would set a code. No codes. Got all the gaskets at home, think I'll wait till I'm back.
Do a look see and clean it up, and maybe block off the EGR.

 

[DieselLady]

Blocking the EGR will set codes.
Part of the reason I think it's the butterfly valve is because I don't think it sets codes unless it won't close. Not if it won't open. they are looking to see heat and they measure egr flow by putting an egt probe between the butterfly valve and the egr valve. So if it sticks shut, you will see heat, and the computer will be happy. I doubt they are worried if they see heat for too long.

 

[Alan Reagan]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...tion-at-Highway-Speed/page2&highlight=bucking



See my last post in the link above. You won't believe this but they just replaced my fan clutch and solved a bucking/missing/loss of power problem. The fan clutch was defective and was engaging and disengaging very rapidly causing a noise problem on the engine load signal line. I saw the data download from the computer and it was significant. The noise was causing signal problems which was in effect, confusing the ECM about how the engine was operating. Read the series of posts about what all they did trying to fix this. The truck would shut off, go dead peddle, feel like it was skipping, etc.



Good luck. BTW other than the fan engaging once at highway speed in 40 degree temps unloaded, I would have never thought about it as being any kind of problem related to what the engine was doing. That time, the fan was fully engaged for about 20 minutes. I had to pull off the interstate and shut down and restart to make it stop. As you will see from the posts, they cleaned the EGR, replaced the throttle body, replace three injectors, etc. It was the fan clutch.