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Portable Saw Mill

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I don't have any experiance with their portable saw mills but I did have one of their fire wood processors with a 3 cylinder Kubota diesel, the automatic in feed deck and 6 way splitting head. It was a well made piece of equipment. I also want a small protable mill so I have done a bunch of research about them, including Timber King, Cook's, Norwood and Hud-son. I know you do a lot of reseach so do your homework and watch the video's. They all seem to have pro's and con's. Get the biggest and best with the most options that you can afford right from the get-go. I can only afford the most basic smaller units in the 5-7 thousand dollar range. If I were closer I would hit you up for a job running yours:-laf

Do you have some private timber or do you need to go on the forest?

Nick
 
I don't have any experiance with their portable saw mills but I did have one of their fire wood processors with a 3 cylinder Kubota diesel, the automatic in feed deck and 6 way splitting head. It was a well made piece of equipment. I also want a small protable mill so I have done a bunch of research about them, including Timber King, Cook's, Norwood and Hud-son. I know you do a lot of reseach so do your homework and watch the video's. They all seem to have pro's and con's. Get the biggest and best with the most options that you can afford right from the get-go. I can only afford the most basic smaller units in the 5-7 thousand dollar range. If I were closer I would hit you up for a job running yours:-laf
Do you have some private timber or do you need to go on the forest?

Nick

Thanks for the come back Nick, I have been looking at the different machines. Even went to a guys place just a little north of us across the border to see his operation. He has one like I posted and loves it, but the price is the prohibitive part of it they are expensive!!! His uses a Yanmar Diesel motor it went threw wood both dry or green like butter.

Yes we have an ample supply of trees to cut on all of the family's property here in Seeley alone, and the Nat Forest opens up cuts at times that would be advantages to take use of, they sometimes require non motorized equipment to remove it, I know just the guy that has a way of doing that. :D We need to do some clearing in fact to provide room for FIL's cattle to roam without me having to find them in the trees when its cold to feed them. Penny and I would like to open some more land up for feed for us and the cattle.

I want to expand my barn to make it as big again as it is now, to get more of the domesticated animals out of the cold. This winter has show me just how unprepared I was in my thinking about this. I have not lost any animals due to the cold and snow but, FIL has lost at least a dozen cattle here and several dozen more in other parts of his operation.

Come on up I have just the job for ya, its outside work so you get the fresh air, invigorating to say the least!! not bad today its only 27* and a light snow with 1 to 3 in due in the next 24 hours, short sleeve weather at its best. ;)

Thanks again Nick

BIG
 
I've had one visit my place a few times. Lt 70 if I am not mistaken. Max. log diameter is about 30" and you will be turning them a lot to get them broke down. Big logs were quartered with a big chain saw and put on the mill with my log loader. Farm tractor in your case with a loader would be great....short, stout peevee will help also...put your back into it. Blades get dull in a heartbeat....better have a good supply and the equipment to sharpen them. Keep in mind I am not talking about a few boards, some of the western red cedar went on a building in central Montana and others are on a logger's memorial building at a local logging museum.
 
I have never used one, or a chainsaw mill. My first thought after looking at lots of them (I make furniture and do lots of woodworking) is that they are expensive for occasional use (the bandsaw and the other circular saw mills). Seems to me the cheaper (and more work) is a chainsaw mill, however that does require a large chainsaw to be really useful. From what I have seen and read the consensus is that a 100cc saw is recommended and for big stuff the biggest you can get is suggested. The chains are sharpened differently than a chain for cross cutting (regular use chain) and it is not automatic. There is a site that caters in part to people milling, here: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/forums/milling-saw-mills.62/

If there is a small sawmill in reasonable distance it may be cheaper and easier to haul the logs for sawing. Many sawmills have closed so that may not work.
 
If there is a small sawmill in reasonable distance it may be cheaper and easier to haul the logs for sawing. Many sawmills have closed so that may not work.

This is the reason for us getting a mill, the guy in town is nice enough we have built A LOT of projects the past year, Im looking at some others and looking at doubling my barn size, I asked him about cutting my trees, I dont know if he's just not wanting to cut someones trees or he wants me to buy his lumber? as much lumber as we have purchased from him its kind of P***ed me off. We are always building something around here in the family so it won't go to sitting to long between use's
 
Most sawmills are very leary about sawing logs brought in from private owners. I'm sure your logs would be clean, but he doesn't know that. If you had ever seen a circle saw or band that hit metal or hidden debris( mostly dooryard or fence line trees) you would understand. It ruins expensive parts and can injure wokers. If you think your primary needs will be dimension lumber, look at Lucas Mills. They use a circle blade and set up over the log. They are a lot faster and also easier to learn to use efficiently. The downside is no wide boards. An added benefit is the initial expense is a lot lower.
 
Most sawmills are very leary about sawing logs brought in from private owners. I'm sure your logs would be clean, but he doesn't know that. If you had ever seen a circle saw or band that hit metal or hidden debris( mostly dooryard or fence line trees) you would understand. It ruins expensive parts and can injure wokers. If you think your primary needs will be dimension lumber, look at Lucas Mills. They use a circle blade and set up over the log. They are a lot faster and also easier to learn to use efficiently. The downside is no wide boards. An added benefit is the initial expense is a lot lower.

Ya ive seen what happens when the Green Peace weenies that were so concerned about the forests took it upon themselves to SPIKE at bunch of trees. I have to kind of be decent to the BUTT head when I do my barn there are some of the roof beams that there is no possible way that I can produce them in the length and width that I need, unless I want to drive a long way to get them, hauling them is not the problem its just his boom truck driver will set the poles if I have everything ready to go, a few beers the next Friday Night is pretty cheap.
 
Bignasty and jhenderson;

I agree shrapnel in logs is a big hazard, regardless of the source, the environazi's are the worst. It does wreck machinery and may injure workers. I worked at a sawmill many years ago and saw some of the carnage. Some use a metal detector to attempt and find all the shrapnel in advance

In order of increasing cost here are the alternatives:

1. Chainsaw mill - labor intensive, low cost, variable output depends on skill, planer needed to make dimension lumber (less than $2K if you buy a MS880 or a Husqvarna 1320 and a granberg mill). Chainsaw is big variable, bigger is better 70+cc's

2. Logosol chainsaw mill (see baileysonline.com) about 3K plus chainsaw bigger is better - minimum 70+cc engine, bigger is better.

3. Lucas mill - somewhat labor intensive, setup important, does not do wide boards, moderately expensive. Circular saw blades, biggest mill cuts 10" x 10" boards. Baileys used to sell them, I have no idea why they do not now. The 10"x10" Lucas is over $15K

4. Bandsaw mill. fast cutting, sky is the limit on how much they cost (size of boards and power). Lots of people have made them themselves for $5K (web search will find lots). Norwood makes them, they start at $8K (lots of options).
 
The biggest problem with inexpensive band mills is they are slower than death. Thats why I said not to pay by the hr. It will often cost over 50 cents per bd ft when paying by the hr to saw white pine on one of these mills. Good quality pine can be bought rough sawn at the mill for that price. Low quality for roofers and underlayment for considerably less if bought in volume. It's nice to tell everyone the lumber is from your trees but practicality must take priority.
 
I picked up a used Norwood with a little honda motor. It's slow, but then again when I want a specific cut, I can make it. I liked the look and such of the timber king. I think cooks was similar, with a 4 post carriage.
 
Just a few comments, little Bro has a Timber King 1600 he made his living with for several years (still runs it some but now has a fulltime job as sawyer for a big mill). He completely wore out one engine even with meticulous maintenance. Needless to say he milled a lot of lumber and I helped more than I care to remember. It's a lot more work than most folks realize and making good lumber (without thick and thins) requires more skill than most small mill operators have. Also the actual "how to's" would fill a much larger book than the one that comes from the manufacture.

Now, all that said, there is a certain satisfaction in doing a thing well and that especially goes with building a house or barn or cabin with lumber and logs you milled. My advise is research the options, I agree with little Bro that the 4 post TimberKing with hydraulic log turner and loader and stationary operator station is superior to several other brands, namely Wood Miser. They have a cantilevered mill head and the operator walks or rides with the saw, for every board. Man if you need to mill a few thousand board feet, that's a lot of traveling.

If one is serious about making a reasonable amount of good lumber with a smaller portable bandsaw mill you need at least 3 folks, the operator and two people pulling lumber and stacking as well as loading the deck. Of course the amount of hydraulics and automation one wants to pay for has a direct bearing on manpower needs. Still, a least one helper is usually required.

If I were considering a mill with no background, I'd call the manufactures under consideration and find out where they had mills I could see in action. Heck, as I narrowed down the field, I might even provide free labor for a day or three just to get valuable inside info.

Good Luck, RR
 
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Yeah i was going that route when I found a local used norwood. Its basic, but cuts well. I may leave it here on the family property, as I head West in the next month. I would take any opportunity you can get to demo different brands, so you can see and feel the differences.
 
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