Posi Tap and Posi Lock connectors,

[abdiver]

I just became aware of the Posi Tap and Posi Lock connectors, Thinking of going that route with the in cab splice onto the 18 ga ignition controller cigar wire.



Anyone have a thought about them or have you used them ?



Seem that a nice feature is you can remove them if required I don't think I would use them in an area that is exposed to moisture though they do have a waterproof butt connector that should work for wet connditons



http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/posi-tap/posi-tap.htm



Manufactures site below



http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

 

[BillGotthelf]

I use them all the time. I found them at Geno's ande have been using them since they started stocking them. I had problems with scotch locks and have never had a problem with the posi tap and I like the way the posi lock connectors come apart so you can add or delete wires.

 

[BarryG]

I have used them many times. Both the reg and weatherproof ones. Not one problem with them and some of them have been on for 170k.

 

[BigBadDodge]

They came as part of my BD Exhaust Brake kit. first I used them seem to work great.



BBD

 

[abdiver]

My problem now is to get them I was on there web site Swenco's they have better selection than Geno's I will call Swenco's 800 # first thing Monday see if they can priorty ship them to me. As I want to get my truck all put back together. More fun driving it. I am going to Eugene Ore. as soon as weather permits and it good weather now.

Bill

 

[SKargo]

They are one of my all time favorite companies, their connectors are the best invention for a non-soldering fool like myself.

 

[abdiver]

Scott, I can solder but I like the feature of being able to disconnect the connection if required other wise I would have to unsolder it. Sounds like a good system.

 

[SKargo]

Scott, I can solder but I like the feature of being able to disconnect the connection if required other wise I would have to unsolder it. Sounds like a good system.

I can solder, barely. I've only done it a time or two though. They are wonderful for the ability to undo any connections you might be undone, that's for sure. Iused the posi tap this past week to hook my comp box up.

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

When I made my last purchase at Geno's in late Nov or early Dec??? I had a phone conversation about the posi-tap/connectors kits available. At that time they said they were suppose to get in the near future a combo kit with a better assortment of posies than what they were currently offering. I'll have to check the latest catalog.

 

[rbattelle]

Let me begin by saying I don't want to offend anyone or step on any toes with what I'm about to say. I just want to offer "the other side of the coin".



I have spent a lot of time evaluating various interconnect products. One of these was the posi-lock connectors. I bought a package to check them out, and I never installed them on anything after seeing how they work. I personally don't like them. I know there are many out there who have used them for hundreds of thousands of miles without trouble, but I don't trust them. I don't like the lack of sealing with the wire insulation, in particular.



After trying just about everything out there I've come to the conclusion that if you're wiring something up the only "right" way to do it is with solder, shrink tubing, and/or self-fusing silicone tape.



Nevertheless, there are times when a disconnect point must be wired in. In those cases, I try to go with an environmentally-sealed connector (not Molex... something made of aluminum like Amphenol's offerings). Barring that, I'll make my own environmentally-sealed connector using crimp-on spade terminals with nylon insulation, and some shrink tube or silicone RTV to seal the insulation around the connector ends.



Again, please don't anyone think I'm trying to insult them or suggest they don't know what they're talking about with posi-lock connectors. I just thought I'd present things from a different perspective. I usually try to steer people away from these kind of connections.



And by the way, I think those "scotch-lock" wire taps are the single worst invention in the history of electricity. And that's saying a lot!



-Ryan

 

[Joe G.]

I agree with Ryan. Except for using crimp on connectors. I solder all spade lugs or other disconnectable connections to their respective wires and use shrink tubeing to seal the solder joints. Then I do as he does for those connections and use silicone to seal the disconnectable part.

 

[RSimmons]

I recently found Posi-lock and Taps at the local Wal-Mart. They were in the automotive section with the other electrical doo-dads.

 

[abdiver]

I don't like the lack of sealing with the wire insulation, in particular.



-Ryan

Ryan, Tell me More, I am looking for everyones thoughts.



Actually it would be easier for me to just solder the connection. But being the connection was inside the cab I wouldn't have to worry about the non water proof of the Posi Tap. I thought if I ever needed to disconnect the wiring for any reason the disconnect feature of the Posi Tap.



I could be done with my project if I just solder the connection and most likely I will never have to remove it and it I did I do own a pair of wire cutters.



Keep all the good information coming.

Bill

 

[rbattelle]

Ryan, Tell me More, I am looking for everyones thoughts.

I mean at the holes where you insert the wire there's not much sealing action going on. I know they're supposed to be water resistant, but I have trouble trusting a purely mechanical attachment in this case (I think they rely on a compression-style fitting to form a "seal" around the wire insulation).



That aside, you're still trusting a threaded connection to not leak. I don't know about you guys, but my track record with making leak-tight threaded connections is not good. With a solder joint, even if you were to immerse it in water it's still 100% connected and at the center cannot corrode. Wrap it in dual-wall shrink tube, which has a heat-activated adhesive, and there's no chance of it even getting wet.



It seems to me that most mechanical (i. e. solderless) electrical connectors are inherently unreliable. I've used crimp-and-seal butt connectors in the past (very high quality part) and had trouble with them if you touched them or shook them around, as though the wiring inside were arcing. These things never happen with solder connections.



If I have a solderless connection in a circuit and it starts acting up, the first place I check is the solderless connections. At least 1/3 of the time that's where the problem is.



-Ryan

 

[R-N-R]

I agree 100% with Ryan, however I make sure and use di-electric grease when necessary to use non-soldered connections.

 

[abdiver]

I recently found Posi-lock and Taps at the local Wal-Mart. They were in the automotive section with the other electrical doo-dads.

Swenco web site ( the manufacture) says Kragen Carquest Napa and Wal-mat are retailers of their product I called all except Wal-mat they all said they had the Posi Locks but did not carry the Posi Taps.



I will call Wal mat tomorrow to see if they carry the Taps

 

[abdiver]

I mean at the holes where you insert the wire there's not much sealing action going on. I know they're supposed to be water resistant, but I have trouble trusting a purely mechanical attachment in this case (I think they rely on a compression-style fitting to form a "seal" around the wire insulation).



That aside, you're still trusting a threaded connection to not leak. I don't know about you guys, but my track record with making leak-tight threaded connections is not good.



-Ryan

Ryan, The connection under my dash are not moisture proof so I personelly feel that the Posi Tap will be no worse. Like I said earlier I would not use a Posi lock or Posi Tap any where but inside the cab. I am pretty anal when it come to my craftsmanship this also mean it takes me twice as long to do a project cause I always try to do it right the first time. That is one big reason I like this site I can ask the rest of you how you did it and I don't have to reinvent the wheel. For Shrink tube I use the Anchor brand (sold a marine suppliers) lots thicker.



Thanks again for all good info, Bill

 

[fmj]

I buy the posi locks at their site. You have to buy a box of whatever size and type you want. It your interested in waterproof, buy the waterproof ones. They have a 100% seal and work in a really wet, boat, environment with no problems. More expensive though. I've never seen them at any store that carries the regular ones.

 

[abdiver]

I think those "scotch-lock" wire taps are the single worst invention in the history of electricity. And that's saying a lot!



-Ryan

Ryan I agree the scotch lock wire taps are at best a temporary solution. I have been to busy with my wife's project (are new house) to spend much time on my truck till this week, When time permits I will remove the scotch lock wire taps that my camper electrical was installed with. I told the owner of Caravan camper that I would do the electrical installation rather than his crew well he just did it anyway with scotch lock wire taps. Like I said earlier I am on the coast lots of corrosion. I never test a wire by piercing the outer insulting material I always go to a connector. Anyway I took your advice and soldered the inside cap connection for the Ignition on wire for my painless install and I like the Anchor Marine grade shrink tube as seen in picture I included. I did call my local Walmart they said they had the Posi taps but it is an 1 1/2 hr drive one way to Walmart. Next time I am in town I will buy an assortment of them. as I think they would be handy for a quick fix, at least to get me home.



Bill

 

[rbattelle]

Now that's a FINE lookin' splice!







-Ryan