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Possible fire danger!!

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The FASS can pump 175 GPH!

DIY "Torque Tube" ??

We put a steel braided line from the pump to the isolator for the fuel pressure gauge. It was fairly long and the way we installed it, it went towards the bottom of the drivers side battery. I guess due to the vibration, it worked its way under a rubber boot on a power connection (not sure what its called) just below the battery, and shorted out. It burned a hole thru the line, and the stainless line from the hole back to the pump had turned brown. Coulda been bad. Luckily we were under the hood and noticed the fuel leak right away and shut it off. Imagine if the hood had been down and we drove off.

Be sure and check the routing of your stainless steel lines.

For what its worth... .



Robin
 
That's one of the reasons I have grease gun hose to the isolator, THEN stainless from the isolator to the gauge. The only thing I have to worry about is the braided line chafing through the metal ABS plumbing there. I think I am gonna slip some heater hose over it.

\

Hohn
 
We had a Camaro that the customer zip tied some braided lines to a battery cable. It eventually wore through,and it wasn't pretty. Keep that stuff away from wires !
 
I am getting ready to order my gauges, and had decided to get the braided line. Given the potential problem, it the braided stainless better than just a rubber or plastic tube?



I am getting ISSPRO EVA, with mechanical fuel, so I will be running fuel line into cab.



Thanks
 
HO, with the pressures involved rubber or nylon hose is plenty adequate and lots easier to route around, plus it won't start a fire. Braided looks better but that won't do you any good unless you're showing off under the hood. My feeling is it's an overkill. I've used regular old 1/8'' nylon boost line pushed inside a protective sheath of 1/4'' tubing on several FP gauges with no leaks, my personal rig has had one for six years without a problem. Good idea to use a 1/8'' $4 needle valve at the head of the line in the unlikely event you do have a leak.
 
Where did you get your nylon 1/8 line? I had one on one week, and it split at the needle valve on vp44 where schrader used to be. Glad I used a needle valve, that was only open about 1/8 turn. Good advice on this board.



Noticed 1 - 2 psi lower on gauge, and could smell raw diesel. just turned the valve fully closed.



I need a better idea for line.

I'm thinking one of the plastic braids instead of stainless braids might be better.
 
Fuel pressure gauge installation

Interesting comments. I have a question. I'm in the process of installing a fuel pressure gauge and I'm not sure where this schrader valve is located. Could a guy use a grease gun hose from the schrader valve to the sending unit? I found a 18" grease gun hose in one of my magazines. Do you replace the schrader valve with another type fitting? Thanks, Jim.
 
the schrader valve is a tech name for a tire type valve. This valve must be removed and it is on the pump right at the back. Mine had a Grey plastic cap on it.



I do believe a 1/8 female npt threaded connector is needed.



Not sure what you are calling a sender. Are you referring to an isolator?



I went with a valve and have it cracked only slightly open. works well in case of line leakage. I will be going with a oil line all the way to the gauge.



1. Diesel fuel oil is not as evaporative/explosive/dynamic as gasoline.



2. you can smell it immediately even with the trickle I had I could smell it at the pump as I opened the door. raw diesel smell. I immediately closed my aux aftermarket needle valve.



3. I don't like the idea of Ethelyn glycol in the secondary side of the isolator. If you break a diaphragm and this leaks into the VP44 you are in trouble. If this was a gas engine, it would not be any big deal, and I really suspect these isolators and ethylene-glycol solution was really developed with them in mind. Gas engine will burn this minuscule amount in seconds, but whilst it could burn it with no effect, it would harm it as a lubricant for the vp44 injection pump.



I have wondered for some time if it would not be better to use some kind of mineral oil, or 0w30 oil, or a few tablespoons of diesel fuel oil (limits overall amount that could leak into interior) on the secondary side. would allow for better transfer of motion/waves through the diaphragm into the secondary fluid media.



ok, flame away...
 
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Kevlar?

Anyone thought of using kevlar lines? They're pricey, but strong, light, and easily routed. oh yeah, they're also a real sharp looking blue. I'm thinking of using them on my mech oil gauge.

-john
 
Robert,



The fuel gauge I'm using (Westach) is electric gauge with a electrical sending unit. Sending unit takes the diesel pressure and converts it to pressure, which the gauge indicates.
 
Originally posted by HOCummins04

I am getting ready to order my gauges, and had decided to get the braided line. Given the potential problem, it the braided stainless better than just a rubber or plastic tube?



I am getting ISSPRO EVA, with mechanical fuel, so I will be running fuel line into cab.



Thanks





I just got through doing the same thing. I have the braided stainless line, but the whole line is now wrapped with a rubber line to help quiet the vibration from the motor. I would probably use the stainless line again, but I would wrap it with rubber fuel line before I ever put it in. It was a PITA to hook everything up then take it all apart then put it back together
 
No flames but,

I believe the environment that the gauge will be used in determines the type of fluid used in Diaphragm Seal gauges. Ethylene glycol with a glycol concentration of 60% by volume is good to around –60*F.



I have seen liquid filled gauges use Glycerine and Silcone oil but, these have a limit to about –10*F and 0*F respectfully. Not a gauge I would want to use in the Yukon Terratory.



I like the idea of Kevlar hoses and they do look sharp but, they too will quickly chaf through wiring. So, I think the moral of the story here is, no matter what type of hoses you are using, always protect wiring and hoses from chaffing.



Joe
 
I to just Installed a braided hose for my fuel pressure gauge, would It be okay to put split loom around the line or should I put something else on



also If someone was to lay that line up on the battery for a second by mistake and It was to arc did I ruin my braided line (It doesn't leak that I can see):eek:
 
Another danger of using conductive fuel hoses.

On the outside or on the inner layers,is if you ever left a main ground loose or if the main grounds broke in an accident the conductive hoses could be come your grounds for the electrical loads. That is why OE fuel hoses are none conductive.
 
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