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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Power gone in some spots

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission heater

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Batteries were almost dead after sitting for about 2 weeks. Charger is bringing them up. Went looking for battery drain. IOD fuse good, door locks work but no inside lights. Where could the shortage be? underhood light is disconnected and has been for months.
if no one has a idea where is a good elec shop in the LA area? One that is familiar with the older systems.
 
Still can't rule them out as the problem. If the charge and fail a load test...I hope you got a warranty.

You could do this yourself if you had an amp meter that will read to the miliamps.

Put the amp meter inline between the positive terminal on the drivers battery, and the clamp (disconnect the passenger side battery). Key off, see what the amperage draw is. If above 500 miliamps, start pulling fuses and relays one at a time until the reading drops at least 250mA - depending on the circuit - that may be your suspect.

You are also going to want to clean all your ground connections. There are some circuits that do constantly draw power, but a bad ground will cause a higher draw.
 
Are you running a custom transmission and a smart controller. DTT had removed my transmission relay and installed a jumper in its place. A problem with the OD relay output circuit in the PCM caused it to be activated when the truck was off draining the batteries.

To trouble shoot issues like this I disconnect battery grounds and jumper a small light bulb like a #97 between the battery post on one battery and ground cable, and start removing fuses one at a time until light goes out or dims greatly!

SNOKING
 
Are you running a custom transmission and a smart controller. DTT had removed my transmission relay and installed a jumper in its place. A problem with the OD relay output circuit in the PCM caused it to be activated when the truck was off draining the batteries.

To trouble shoot issues like this I disconnect battery grounds and jumper a small light bulb like a #97 between the battery post on one battery and ground cable, and start removing fuses one at a time until light goes out or dims greatly!

SNOKING

Analog version of an ampmeter.
 
Ron Larson, thanks much for the tip. That was the problem. I had just had the truck in for a paint job and they probably did that while setting with the doors open. Everything else seems OK. Now just waiting on the batteries.
They were 1`3.9v when i took the charger off after a all night session. They went to 14.2 with the engine running . After i ran a SMARTY check on the codes the batteries were 13.2v. Am now waiting to see have much they drop and how long it takes. Will have to find a good electrician as I am no longer able to work on the truck.
Thanks everybody for all the assistance and suggestions.
 
Ron Larson, thanks much for the tip. That was the problem. I had just had the truck in for a paint job and they probably did that while setting with the doors open. Everything else seems OK. Now just waiting on the batteries.
They were 1`3.9v when i took the charger off after a all night session. They went to 14.2 with the engine running . After i ran a SMARTY check on the codes the batteries were 13.2v. Am now waiting to see have much they drop and how long it takes. Will have to find a good electrician as I am no longer able to work on the truck.
Thanks everybody for all the assistance and suggestions.

happy to have helped! Have someone remove your battery cable ends at the batteries and do a thorough cleaning of the terminals and cable ends. They tend to form a glaze, reducing voltage to the system.
 
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