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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Power Issues

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Steering wheel lock

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Hot Rod Vp44?

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C4gan

TDR MEMBER
I am at a loss.

2001 auto 47re

Edge ez, 33lbs boost, Goerand converter, transgo valve body kit, K&N air filter



This problem is driving me crazy...

Truck will be running perfect and then i will take off from a light and between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle the truck is running on half power and will only push 22 lbs boost and at WOT it feels like 3/4 throttle and will boost 33lbs. and the whole time this is going on, when i come to a stop the truck will hang in second gear. and sometimes but not all of the time i will park the truck and when i come back out and start it again, it is back to normal.

i was getting a 0500 code and i replaced the output speed control (tail shaft of trans) and the issue went away for 3 days or so and now it is back... no codes..... any thoughts?

i have tried disconnecting the battery and resetting the apps and no change.

:{
 
Pulling batt cables won't reset the APPS. Try the following procedures. Also make sure all the grounds are good going to the PCM, ECM, and batt grounds.



RESETTING THE APPS SENSOR.

(ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR)

2ND GENERATION 24 VALVE TRUCKS ONLY.



LIST OF TOOLS NEEDED



DIGITAL VOLT METER

# 20 TORQUE BIT SOCKET

# 1 PHILLIPS

# 10 MM SOCKET



Proper service and repair procedures are vital to ensure personal safety of those performing the repairs. Standard safety procedures and precautions should be followed at all times to eliminate the personal injury or improper service, which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.

Although this material has been prepared with the intent to provide reliable information, no liability is assumed in reliance of this material.



It has come to my attention that a lot of people think by disconnecting & re-connecting the batteries and stepping on the throttle it is going to reset the apps, no, that is not correct. It is impossible to adjust your apps if you do not know where it is supposed to be set at. That is why you need the voltmeter.



This is the procedure I use to re-set the apps.



With the key on, engine off you need to probe the apps wire to see where your voltage is currently set at.

The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (power control module) which is located off the passenger side of the firewall.



· You want the C1 connector, this is the connector closest to the engine,

· You want the orange wire with the dark blue tracer which is pin # 23

· Voltage should read somewhere around 0. 5 volts,

· At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference.



*** TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK ***



· The apps sensor is located slightly above and a little to the left of the injection pump.



· Remove the black plastic cover that is located by your injection pump.



The two screws that are holding it are plastic, do not put any downward pressure on them or you will never get them off.



· Un do the 6 - 10 mm headed bolts that hold the bracketry in place.

(DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES)



You will notice the apps is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2 - 20 bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful these screws strip very easily and you only get one shot at them.



· On the apps you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the apps adjustment should be.



· After loosening the screws you can rotate the apps both clockwise and counter clockwise to get the adjustment you need.



· The reading you took at the beginning of the process on pin # 23 should match the white tag on your apps, if not adjust accordingly.
 
Thanks for the info... I will give this a try.

With the symptoms that i have described, does it seem like this may be the cause?

Thanks Again!

Chris
 
I'd say it sounds more like your VP44 except for the 2nd gear hang you describe. That's why I think you should look at the grounds.



But this APPS procedure and ground cleaning won't cost any $. :D
 
I'll give it a try tonight. .

Just got back from Vegas on saturday... . Why the hell is it so cold out there?

And after that vacation out there, all i can afford is the free fixes!
 
You sound like a native - when they have to put on a coat they gripe about the cold. :D



In comparison, sunny and warm San Diego was about the same as Vegas yesterday. 60* high and low 40s for the low. Go figure?
 
Right... . It was in the low 50's and people were walking around with winter coats on and gloves and here i am, coming from highs in the low teens, walking in just a shirt and they are all looking at me like i was crazy... .



You had mentioned the VP44. .

Would i see a difference in fuel pressure from when it is running good/bad? Fuel pressure is consistant and does not drop below 9psi at WOT. and stays between 13 to 14 cruising. and one other issue. When the truck is running bad, fuel mileage is in the crapper! Like 7-9 mpg on the expressway. Its usually upwards of 19-20...
 
C4gan said:
You had mentioned the VP44. .

Would i see a difference in fuel pressure from when it is running good/bad? Fuel pressure is consistant and does not drop below 9psi at WOT. and stays between 13 to 14 cruising.

No - the LP is creating the FP and it sounds like it is good.





C4gan said:
and one other issue. When the truck is running bad, fuel mileage is in the crapper! Like 7-9 mpg on the expressway. Its usually upwards of 19-20...

Sounds more and more like the VP44. But still try the other things first, before spending $1000 on a new VP44. And you can put off replacement until it gets worse - just don't take it on any long road trips.
 
Great... . I wonder if i can get back all of the money i donated to the great city of Las Vegas, last week... Thanks for the info and i'll let you know what i find. .
 
Ok. so here is what i have done and the results... .

Checked apps. at the ecm and it was reading . 44, set it to the . 538 volts that was on the back of the sensor, and still no change

So i figured that i would try replacing it all together... no change



REplaced the map and the air charge temp sensor..... no change



So i still dont want to give into the VP44!



I call up a friend of mine and ask if i can try out his Cummins computer!

Put it in and it has run perfect for 7 days now! Trans is now shifting about 90% better than it used to.



Has anyone had this issue before?

What is the best avenue as far as replacing this?

Should i just buy one from cummins? Or is there another alternative?



Chris
 
Send Bob Wagner a PM. He should be able to help on an ECM - I think that is what you are describing.
 
NPS

Sent Bob a PM right after i wrote this. He has not responded yet.

The one that i am talking about is mounted to the side of the motor on the drivers side behind the fuel filter assy.

In reference to Bob, how is the whole Marco's Ecm going?

Also, i am wondering if i have a "hardware" issue with that computer and have to purchase a new one before i can upgrade to the Mad software...

Any thoughts?
 
Does it have the power issue if you manually start in 1st and run up through the gears? My 47RE on my 12v does the same thing. If I come to a stop and don't stop ALL THE WAY :-laf , it starts out in 2nd, making it feel sluggish and keeping the boost slow. Not quite sure how to fix it. Maybe a transmission issue instead of an engine/fuel issue?
 
This happens when i start the truck. it either runs right or it runs bad. The situation only changes when i turn the truck off and then back on again. The whole situation disappeared (except some trans issues) when i installed my friends computer so i cannot see how it is the vp or the trans. I really wish i knew more about the programming aspects so i could tell what is really going on...
 
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