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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Power Issues

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Alternator

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Ok, as you can see I have made some significant upgrades to my truck and from the research have done pretty well rounded as well...



It seems that I have to bang gears so fast that I never feel the power of this truck!!!



I have been told to step down from a 410 to a 355 gear set and this would help me keep each gear longer.



I can pull 38 lbs of boost and throw smoke like a freight train, the turbo sings like my grandma at church on Sunday...



Please help me understand this more before spending some big $$$ on top of big #$$$
 
If you want your truck to be fast, you need a built auto. I love my 6er and wouldn't trade it for towing but if I were to drag race it would be gone.

JC
 
I'd agree. Built auto is about the only way to make it happen. Changing gear ratio mite help but would be disappointing. You should have a double disk clutch. Take off in 3rd or 4th gear and then grab 6th and slide the clutch. I know a guy with a 6 speed that does it and no clutch problems... yet.
 
It will never be fast with a 6 spd. I've got 3. 55 gears and 35" tires and still can't really feel the power, I am constantly shifting until top gear. Then it gets crazy fast in a hurry.



I rode in a built auto this past weekend with a silver62, 200 hp injectors, and an edge box. It was unbelieveable how fast it was. From a standing start I think it would put my truck to shame. I was so impressed I'm considering a swap to an auto... .
 
My auto goes through gears like right now!

1-2 almost never feel it, must be about 5 or 6 mph.


2-3 between 8-15 mph depending on the foot.

3-OD 28-30 again depending on my foot.

Lockup is 38 mph almost everytime.

This is with light to moderate street driving style with a 40 mph speed limit.

If I floor it, 1-2 is about 12-15.
2-3 is 25-35 and OD is about 52.

If I leave it idling, it upshifts all the way to OD. It's in 3rd at 12-14 mph and will idle down the street at about 16-20 mph.

This is with the new valve body I installed. The OEM valve body never did upshift to OD at idle.
 
Put some weight on it

I just do not understand. I come from the world of sports cars where manuals rule...



This is debatable now with the automatic technology that's out there. However ,there's more to launch than just rear end ratio (ie 4. 10). Transmision gearing also plays a part. For the most part manual cars and sport trucks are designed for quick launches. It starts with lower gearing in the transmission and the rear end (down to 2. 73 with new corvette). The result is being able to stay in each gear longer. To benefit from this gearing you need to be able to turn a lot of rpm's. That's why so many here at the TDR purchase electronic programing that allow them to rev longer. Unfortunately IMO our trucks are not designed, at least stock or even moderately bombed, for racing. Our trucks are designed for towing.



GOT-Torque even noted that with 3. 54 rear end and 35" tires the truck doesn't feel like it truly launches until probably 5th and then definitely 6th with his truck.



Moral of this story. What do you use the truck for the most? I tow so I won't give up my manual. Keep in mind there will always be a sacrifice in towing ability for racing ability. If you want to beat the pants off mustangs and vettes then you need a built auto. Happy trails:eek:
 
Are you saying if I "load" the truck ith some weight I will get the motor to "wake up"?



In a way yes. What I meant by this is when you load it (tow some weight) you won't fly through the gears so fast. This way you'll get a chance to appreciate what these trucks can do. I'm not saying you can't modify these trucks for racing or get up and go. I'm just saying they are meant for towing/hauling.



I don't know about anyone else but when I'm not towing anything I bang through 1st and 2nd so fast I rarely get above 10psi boost... that's if I start in first:-laf. When I tow or haul I achieve maximum boost more often in 1st and 2nd gears. It's almost as if the cummins knows to produce more torque because of the tow load. It's weird.
 
The guy who did the work on my truck said that the higher gears would allow me to hold gears longer and pull more boost.



I drive 40-80k miles a year and sell surgical devices and also own a portion of a develpment company. The majority of the time I do not tow, but do need alot of space and 4x4 for WV in the winter.



I like trucks due to the wide open space in the front where I can mount laptops, fax machine, etc... I use my vehicle as a traveling office.



SUVs are crap and do not hold up to my "spirited" driving style. Neither did a 2005 F-350 whose IFS fell apart on me at 6k miles!!!! Long story short I need a truck that can run like a scalded animal



I purchased the 6sp due to many complaints of the auto failing and the 6sp being bullet proof.



Bottom line I like bangin gears but the current set up is just not fast enough for me. What does a good transmission cost, sun coast, ats, etc...
 
The guy who did the work on my truck said that the higher gears would allow me to hold gears longer and pull more boost.



I drive 40-80k miles a year and sell surgical devices and also own a portion of a develpment company. The majority of the time I do not tow, but do need alot of space and 4x4 for WV in the winter.



I like trucks due to the wide open space in the front where I can mount laptops, fax machine, etc... I use my vehicle as a traveling office.



SUVs are crap and do not hold up to my "spirited" driving style. Neither did a 2005 F-350 whose IFS fell apart on me at 6k miles!!!! Long story short I need a truck that can run like a scalded animal



I purchased the 6sp due to many complaints of the auto failing and the 6sp being bullet proof.



Bottom line I like bangin gears but the current set up is just not fast enough for me. What does a good transmission cost, sun coast, ats, etc...







Well my wife reminds me every day how I'm wrong about many things:-laf I'm fairly confident that the guy who did the work on your truck is mistaken about gearing. Lets say for aguement sake first gear in the transmission is 40:1 This means in first gear the engine makes 40 revolutions for each revolution of the transmission output shaft. Now lets say that same first gear has a 1:1 ratio. The engine makes 1 revolution for each transmission output revolution. In short you would be able to hold first gear 40 times longer with the lower 1:1 ratio than the higher 40:1 ratio.



As far as which transmission to go with I can't say. I haven't been down that road. Hopefully others will chime in for ya. Best of luck!
 
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