Power Lok: When to rebuild

[WCantrell]

I have a d70 with a stock Power Lok. The diff was starting to lock on tight corners, so I put in more friction additive, didn't help. I pulled the diff cover and everything looks pretty good. That is, except for the play inside the Power Loc. As I rotate the wheels back and forth the rods engaging the carrier move in and out almost 1/8". Ummm, gussing that that is not normal. Given that, I have 2 questions:



1. Should there be play inside the Power Loc?

2. If it is too loose, am I in danger of grenading the diff if I fill er back up and drive for awhile?





Thanks!

 

[MMiller]

Mine is doing the same thing, except its mainly when hooked to the goosneck trailer. I did the same thing you did, by adding more modifier. No change. I suspect that the friction disks are worn out and its steel on steel now, and not slipping very well.



I priced a new kit from Randy's a few months ago and it was around $300 for new disks. I suspect you won't hurt much, if the truck is driven around empty, but mine sounds real bad under the trailer. I probably will rebuild mine soon, but I should just throw an 80 under it and be done.



Michael

 

[dodgenstein]

Power-lok clutch sets can be had for less than $75:

Dana 70 Power-Loc Clutch Set.

I have bought several sets from here. Pin movement should be addressed ASAP. I bought my 93 W250 cheap (wrecked), because a worn pin kicked out and lodged against the housing locking the rearend up. The gooseneck trailer did a pretty good number on the passenger door and clubcab section.

 

[WCantrell]

Thanks for the response.



Sounds like the pins and internal gears may need to be replaced along with the clutch packs. Or are the pins sloppy because the friction surfaces on the packs are worn down?

 

[cerberusiam]

Or are the pins sloppy because the friction surfaces on the packs are worn down?

Thats generally what happens. You will need to look at the spiders and the cups the side gears set in to determine if you need more parts besides the frictions and steels. Every unit is a bit different so its hard to tell.

 

[WCantrell]

The spiders and the cups seem to be well worn. With the truck up on jacks and I rock the wheels back and forth, it takes a lot of movement to take up the slack inside the carrier. It just don't feel right to me... The truck has 220k on it.



I am leaning towards getting the cutch pack and gear kit from Randy's.

 

[cerberusiam]

Not to bag on Randys but here is acheaper place to get all the parts you need to rebuild at a good price. You can get the whole kit to replace everything in the power-lok.



Parts 1994-2002 Dodge with Dana Rear Axles

 

[HHhuntitall]

Yeah, if you don't need ring and pinion, you can find the parts cheaper... . Quad 4x4 is a good place, good service. If I understand you correctly, you're saying the cross shaft has play in it? If that's true, I'd replace it, the spider gears, clutches, and anything else that's not tight. Part of the noise is coming from the spider gears and cross shaft whenever the clutches do slip, as the gears slam across the slack, and then do it again, and again whenever the clutches slip. It won't be long and the pin will come out, and like dodgenstien said, it can be UGLY!! I've even seen cases and housings that have to be thrown away, which translates into a new axle... ... fixing it now will save your Obama later. I'd suggest not driving it unless you have to, and keep your trips under 20-40 miles, if you can.

 

[WCantrell]

Not to bag on Randys but here is acheaper place to get all the parts you need to rebuild at a good price. You can get the whole kit to replace everything in the power-lok.



Parts 1994-2002 Dodge with Dana Rear Axles

Randy's has a Yukon kit with spiders, cups and clutches for 330. The other site is over 400 for the same internals (not Yukon). Maybe that kit has somehing in it that I am not seeing. I'll give em a call tommorw.



Thanks for everyones' insight.

 

[cerberusiam]

It is all up to you. I know that the parts you get from Quad are genuine Dana parts. Yukon stuff IMHO is not up to par with other manufacturers speaking from personal dealings with their stuff.

 

[HHhuntitall]

It is all up to you. I know that the parts you get from Quad are genuine Dana parts. Yukon stuff IMHO is not up to par with other manufacturers speaking from personal dealings with their stuff.

Really? I've had a different experience with them. What few parts I've had have been pretty good. Now, their gear sets howl a little until they break in..... I actually thought I had screwed up the first one I did... . they don't machine 'em as smooth, I guess..... but Randy's CAN get you the Dana parts, they're just higher... . not that it matters, to each his own, I guess. I'm still leary of 'em just because they're a new manufacturer... ... and these days, that can be dangerous!! I use Randy's because they have such a large parts network, I can make one call and be done, getting back to tearing something else up. And the wholesale account helps.....



Speaking of the Yukon gear, and off the subject as I tend to do, they have the AAM 11. 5 gear in 3:42... ... . I got one a few weeks ago for one of the ranch trucks... ..... I hope it helps the mileage a little more!!Oo.

 

[WCantrell]

The Dana kit has been ordered.



Thanks

 

[WCantrell]

Follow up questions, Umm more to replace...

Well, I tore into the diff. this weekend, and I found one of the carrier bearing races is pitted and the same for the bearing rollers. So, looks like I've got more to replace. Since I'm going that far, I might as well get a master bearing kit and take care of all of it. I have a couple of questions about setting up the rearend when "just" replace the bearings:



1. I have heard that the d70s wallow out where the carrier bearings mount. Do I need to worry about that?



2. If I carefully remove the existing shims, measure them as a stack and replace with the same overall width, should I be good? Do I want to add a tad more? Much would that be?



We did this on my son's d44 scout and it turned out pretty well, but the cummins is pushin just a tad more torque

 

[HHhuntitall]

I'd give the shims a . 001 or two, for break in wear... . If your bearings haven't spun in the bearing journal, there shouldn't be any problem with the bores. If you look at Randy's website, he'll give you detailed instructions on there somewhere on how to set up your bearings...

 

[WCantrell]

Thanks for the response. I am getting a little in over my head, but what's new. Its how I learn...



By journals, do you mean on the carrier or the bearing caps and the housing?



It does appear that the bearings have spun on the carrier. Doesn't look or feel to bad, but there are scuff marks on the carrier surface. So, is that something I can get by with?



Btw, My pinon is stuck, I have been pounding on it with a deadblow for a good part of the afternoon. I have been coating it with penetrating oil... Any helpfull hints?

 

[HHhuntitall]

Yes, by journals, I mean where the bearing races run, under the caps. If the races have turned under the caps, I'd be surprised if there's not any damage..... if not, there may just be marks from the initial installation. If the bearings have spun on the carrier, I'd be surprised..... I'd bet those marks are just from installation, as well.



As for the pinion being stuck, you mean the yoke on the front? Where the u joint attaches? For that, I use a slide hammer, but if you don't have one, I'd suggest trying to get a gear puller, with either a bolt through in the u-joint bolt holes or with pulling arms and try to catch the flat spots behind the ujoints and pull it off. A dead blow hammer will just wear you out, but you know that, now.



Here's a little light reading, it may help you, I think... . http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5312-9.pdf

 

[WCantrell]

Thanks for the reading material, I will take a look. With regards to the pinon, the yoke came off easily enough. With the yoke off and the carrier removed, the pinion gear does not want to budge. That's what all of my pounding has been about...



I had a retired mechanic buddy show up today (he does his best to keep me out of trouble) and one side of the carrier shows signs of having the bearing spin. He suggested a combination of loctite 620 (green) retainer and to use a center punch and apply 8 or so evenly spread dimples to the journal (correct usage?) surface of the carrier where the brearing presses on.

 

[WCantrell]

Never mind, I spun the pinon nut back on an "gently" wailed on it with my small sledge... took a while, the ouside bearing was rusted to the pinon shaft. I'll need a new pinon nut.



Now that I have all the bearings out, back to the parts shop for the RIGHT master bearing set.

 

[HHhuntitall]

LOL! I suppose that's the right usage... . in an engine, bearing positions run in journals... . it may not be the same in an axle. I didn't think about the bearing being rusted onto the pinion in the housing... . that's not that common. But yes, you handled it right, I think. The right parts are esential, too!! HA!!



As for the dimples on the carrier, that's a big no no, I think. Some may get away with it, but if the bearing won't go all the way down and gets caught, it may not seat square... ... than you have a bearing running sideways. Why it would turn on the carrier would suggest to me a lack of lubricant or excess in torque application from the engine..... personally, I'd put it back together without the dimples, and just use some locktight..... unless the bearing just goes on the carrier really easy. If it's an easy slide on, you might consider a new carrier... . or the dimples from a punch... . I'd just have to have it in my hand for evaluation, so.....

 

[Bluebird]

Dana 70...

HHhuntitall, in the light reading material I did not see anything in the parts list for a limited slip diff. Could you point out where that info might be. What I am finding is some grey material #@$%! on my MagHytec diff dip stick. I check it weekly and continue to find this stuff. Both sides/tires continue to grip well even under trailer load 2900 lbs.



Thanks, Patrick.